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For much of its long and fascinating history, Denmark was of little interest to food lovers. Its contribution to world cuisine comprised industrially produced bacon, some nice butter and the endless amusement provided to adventurous culinary travellers by spunk, salty liquorice sweets available in little boxes in every corner store.

In 2003, things changed. A young chef called René Redzepi opened Noma in Copenhagen and led a deeply photogenic movement towards an almost Japanese presentation of ingredients that were exotic and tempting, not because of their price, but because they’d been locally foraged. “New Nordic cuisine” was born, entirely novel and fully disconnected from the classical French canon.

Copenhagen quickly became a destination for a new international Foodie Jet Set. Sure, food lovers had always travelled. Paris, Lyon, Florence or Barcelona had long attracted those interested in the finest executions of the great cuisines of Europe. People would make an effort to go to El Bulli or The French Laundry, but Copenhagen was something new. It sprang into being as a “foodie destination” on no rootstock older than Redzepi’s odd vision.

Noma was recognised early by the two self-appointed arbiters of International Fine Dining. Michelin originally rated food for the French, then naturally became essential for foreign visitors to France and finally pronounced on fine dining across all traditions and all territories. In 2002, the upstart The World’s 50 Best arrived with the bold intention of judging the entire culinary world on their own new criteria of fine dining. Both recognised immediately what was going on in Copenhagen and seized upon it. Ironic, really, considering Noma’s fabulous ethos of hyper-localism, that it should become ground zero for an entirely globalised phenomenon.

Today, Copenhagen is one of the most enjoyable places in the world to eat. It does gastronomy like Florence does art. It seems like every sandwich wagon and corner bakery is run by bright-eyed kids who staged at Noma. The quality of mid-range eating is stupendous and refreshingly international. But here, we are also at the beating heart and the bleeding edge of modern fine dining.

I visited two restaurants in Copenhagen. Koan is run by a Danish/Korean chef and has two Michelin stars. As you may remember from my review this summer, the 17-course tasting menu was exceptional, but readers may recall a discomfitingly assertive upselling of champagne. It was easy to class as modern international fine dining. But did I love it? On balance, no. The effort undermined the pleasure.

Kadeau is a different proposition. On the ground floor of a residential building in the old docks area of Christianshavn, it’s on a seductively humane scale. I counted about a dozen tables and at least as many staff as customers. The kitchen isn’t just “open” but runs continuously into the dining room. There is no stainless steel in sight. In fact, unless you look really closely, there’s no evidence of any professional kit. The chefs work quietly, but there’s a warm buzz creating an unusual atmosphere of very Danish domestic hospitality. This is not what I expected.

The food, foraged from the chefs’ home island of Bornholm, is stellar. Completely unique celebrations of ingredients I had never encountered, in combinations I could never have imagined. Fourteen courses (of course), but also probably a dozen moments of genuine delight. As with any multicourse menu there’s too much to describe in detail but, as an example, I’ve never had a piece of salmon cold smoked first, with cherry wood, then hot smoked just before serving — serving that involves bringing the perfectly formed tail fillet to the table on a board then digging out only the meat from the core and presenting it in a lavender-scented butter broth. The flavour combination is breathtaking, but the understanding of smoke, heat and fish flesh, the depth of knowledge and respect for the ingredients, leaves me lost for words.

To bring raw fjord shrimp to the table would be satisfying enough, but to wrap five of them in separate “leathers” of tomato, rose, cherry leaf, plum and strawberry is both audacious and the work of a fine mind.

The floor staff, individually assigned to tables, present a precise balance of friendly and efficient. I loved it, self-evidently. It was a dining experience that produced joy by any standards or criteria. But with no tablecloths, no fawning, a deliberate informality and careful avoidance of the old-school signifiers or tropes, isn’t this the antithesis of fine dining?

In the absence of an aristocracy to which I can aspire, this is exactly how I imagine a self-made billionaire genius with a social conscience, a disarmingly humble and democratic ethic, a taste for modest Danish/Japanese design and humbling generosity might live and eat, and, God knows, I find myself willing to pay for it — though it comes in close to £500 per head with a couple of glasses of wine. This is going to be as fine a dining experience as I’m ever going to have. It doesn’t “feel” like fine dining, by any of the old standards . . . but it’s only available to a self-selecting set and conforms to a code that increasingly only they can experience and understand. I love it because, uniquely in my experience, it expresses the peak of cooking and the essence of hospitality.

I can’t afford to stay here in Copenhagen, no matter how much I’d like to. I need to get back to London to find out if we can do this at home.

Follow Tim on Instagram @timhayward

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In a world of constant tax policy changes, I find myself inundated with queries from clients increasingly worried about how to plan for their future with confidence.

The most significant talking point at the moment is chancellor Rachel Reeves’ first Budget, due at the end of the month.

Year after year, governments introduce new policies affecting pensions, tax allowances and other frameworks.

These continuous adjustments create uncertainty and make it hard for clients to feel secure in their long-term financial plans.

The constant media speculation just amplifies this anxiety, and it’s happening much more frequently.

For example, in June, prime minister Keir Starmer made a misstatement regarding tax-free cash reductions, which was corrected by the Labour PR machine just hours later.

Headlines that Reeves was being “urged” to reduce tax-free cash do not tell the whole story

The media had already jumped on the story, however, exacerbating concern.

Missteps like this are unfortunate but the 24/7 nature of the media has made the situation worse.

Reporting on opinion from organisations like the Institute for Fiscal Studies just fuels the fire, as seen recently following its suggestion pension tax-free cash may no longer be sustainable.

Headlines that Reeves was being “urged” to reduce tax-free cash do not tell the whole story.

The speculation has led some clients to consider withdrawing their tax-free cash early from a pension regime, despite it not being in their best interest, simply to seek stability.

I’m sure many advisers routinely deal with these sorts of panicked queries.

While politicians and media speculate, we play a key role in providing stability

Many clients, especially those nearing retirement, have felt unsettled about a new left-leaning government, which may not necessarily align with their political views.

Speculative news stories about changes to tax-free cash, inheritance tax (IHT) or even the introduction of a wealth tax are enough to cause panic.

As an adviser, I cannot say such things won’t happen, but I do explain I believe changes as monumental as a wealth tax or even altering IHT (largely unchanged for 40 years) would likely take years to introduce, if they ever happen at all.

Clients begin to wonder if they should act pre-emptively. But it’s important to remind them that even if certain policy changes, like IHT on pensions, were known, the advice might not change.

Short-term revenue gains from frequent changes undermine this goal

Advisers understand not every political shift or proposed tax change will have a direct impact on a client’s long-term goals, and it’s critical to stay focused on the bigger picture.

While politicians and media might speculate, we play a key role in providing stability.

We may not always feel it, but I believe we can nudge policy in the right direction by participating in discussions with institutions like HM Revenue & Customs or the Treasury and through consultation papers.

For instance, the Finance Act at the end of the last tax year abolished the lifetime allowance.

While then-chancellor Jeremy Hunt made the initial decision, input from industry professionals, including myself, helped tweak and adjust the legislation, which could have been worse due to HMRC’s misunderstanding of its implications.

The speculation has led some to consider withdrawing their tax-free cash early, despite it not being in their best interest

That said, amendments to the legislation are still needed.

Our voices need to be heard to ensure policies are crafted with long-term benefits in mind.

Since pension “simplification” in 2006, there have been dozens of other significant changes. This constant tinkering has eroded confidence in pensions for many people. A lack of confidence can leave future generations poorer and more reliant on government support, which could create even bigger problems.

Ultimately, governments should focus on creating stability in tax policies and encouraging people to save for the long term.

Short-term revenue gains from frequent changes undermine this goal. While advisers will continue to help clients stay grounded, a more consistent, thoughtful approach from the government is needed.

Alistair Cunningham is financial planning director at Wingate Financial Plan

Bananas, imported wine and beer, coffee and car parts — there’s a long list of items consumers across the Carolinas might struggle to find in coming weeks. A dockworker strike on the heels of a destructive hurricane is a main reason why, but shopping habits could become another.

“This is highly unusual,” said Robert Handfield, professor and supply chain expert at North Carolina State University. “Big storms hitting major interstate highways combined with port strikes is unprecedented.”

Hurricane Helene ripped through the Carolinas last week, cutting power to the western parts of both states.

Western North Carolina faced major flooding and widespread destruction. Many people across the Carolinas still are without power. The storm badly damaged major freight routes Interstate 40 and Interstate 26 near the North Carolina and Tennessee border.

Now, dockworkers across the eastern half of the country are on strike. That labor dispute will disrupt supply chains that rely on facilities in Wilmington, Morehead City and Charleston to stock the region with goods.

Grocery store supply chain impact

Mark Ferguson is an associate dean at the University of South Carolina’s Darla Moore School of Business. Grocery stores across the Carolinas that lost power and had to throw out fresh items will result in higher prices and harder-to-find items “probably within days,” he said Wednesday afternoon.

“Short-term, predominantly we’ll probably see fresh vegetables, fruits, anything being imported from South America. To a lesser degree, Europe.”

Ferguson isn’t aware of loss of power at cold storage facilities, where food stocks are kept before going to supermarkets. But when they and grocery stores have to restock, it could be difficult getting items from the West Coast.

”The strike would create that by itself. But it’s going to be amplified by the hurricane because existing inventories are depleted,” Ferguson said. “It’s going to be up and down the East Coast from the port shutdowns, but particularly the Carolinas, Florida, Georgia.”

The port strike could impact anything from larger European auto parts used in South Carolina’s BMW or Volvo plants to French or Italian wines, German beer or cheeses. Large appliances like washing machines or heavy machinery from Europe could become difficult to get.

The strike also could impact produce from the West Coast. How long consumers see those impacts will depend on the strike.

”That’s going to be a problem until the ports reopen,” Ferguson said. “There’s not really an economical way to get fresh food to the East Coast, other than the ports.”

Companies that trade in non-perishable items, particularly large retailers, pre-ordered inventory ahead of the strike to have a month or so of supply.

“I don’t see a real need to panic buy things like electronics, toys, Christmas presents,” Ferguson said. “These big retailers were anticipating strikes.”

Prices are likely to rise on construction materials, due to port availability and tremendous need in Helene’s path, he said.

”There’s going to be a lot of rebuilding,” Ferguson said.

If the strike lasts longer than the month most companies stocked up for, then consumers will begin to feel a steeper impact, he said.

Panic buying could impact product availability

Because retailers began prepping for a possible dock worker strike during the summer, impacts on customers should be minimal for the first couple of weeks, said University of South Carolina research economist Joey Von Nessen. That’s if — and it’s a big if — consumers follow normal buying patterns.

For communities that remember how fast toilet paper flew off the shelves during the height of the COVID pandemic, or tried to buy milk and bread on a snow day, there’s always the threat of panic buying.

“Anticipated shortages can sometimes lead to current shortages,” Von Nessen said. “That creates that self-fulfilling prophecy.”

Both sides of the worker strike have incentive to resolve in quickly, he said, since both are consumers themselves and know how critical that work is to the region’s infrastructure. The port in Charleston contributes to one of every nine South Carolina jobs and has an annual economic impact of $87 billion, Von Nessen said.

Unlike bananas that may spoil if they have to take a longer, more expensive route through the West Coast due to the strike, South Carolina’s main exports or vehicles, tires and agricultural products. “All of those are non-perishable items,” Von Nessen said.

But if the strike goes beyond two weeks, price increases and product shortages could start to rise, he said. It’s an unusual time to forecast, with variables from labor negotiations to markets and roads wiped away by the hurricane and unable to receive goods.

“It is very unusual to have two events like this happen at the same time,” Von Nessen said. “It just magnifies the challenge. It’s important to keep in mind not to panic.”

Interstate loss to drive regional concerns

Even without the dockworker strike, the Carolinas would be facing logistical concerns.

“I-40 and 26 are major thoroughfares for a lot of freight for the east coast,” Handfield said. “So it is hitting many different areas of the country, which will likely impact many different categories. One of the biggest concerns is healthcare supplies for the hospitals in Helene’s path, which typically do not have a lot of inventory.”

It likely will be months before logistical channels improve.

“We need to be thinking about the infrastructure — cell phone towers, roads, power lines and many other elements,” Handfield said. “This will take months to repair and get this community working again.”

Price gouging at retail shops

Too many retailers to name have donated millions of dollars worth of supplies to places ravaged by Helene, said Andy Ellen, president and general counsel for the 2,500-member North Carolina Retail Merchants Association. Yet there’s still a cost to all those diverted trucks and manpower.

“Those are some of the items that would have moved from a distribution center into a store that wasn’t impacted by the hurricane,” Ellen said.

He doesn’t expect a short-term problem getting water, cleaning supplies or plywood to rebuild from the storm. But he does see potential issues with the dockworker strike. About 40% of what ends up on store shelves in the country pass through those ports, Ellen said.

Even if the strike ends quickly but workers get the 50% wage increases they’re seeking, he said, markets could feel it. “That will also potentially impact price points,” Ellen said.

Consumers should expect to see some price increases, including staples like coffee, Ellen said. Customers also can help or hurt supply based on how they shop.

“Regardless of the hurricane and regardless of this strike, it is not a time for consumers to panic,” Ellen said. “We’ve had that before.”

Avian flu drove up egg prices in the past, and the war in Ukraine impacted wheat. COVID stressed items across the supply chain. As prices increase and people buy what they can find, either for themselves or to donate, some people might mistake the natural supply and demand of pricing with price gouging, Ellen said.

“That doesn’t mean that the retailer is doing anything wrong,” he said.

Ellen is hopeful conditions will improve by the holiday shopping season. He’s also concerned as the country is still recovering from high prices due to inflation.

How long the port strike lasts will determine whether it’s a blip or something closer to the COVID-era supply chain challenges.

“We could see some of that in the future,” Ellen said. “If this strike is elongated, we will see higher prices on store shelves.”

Unlock the Editor’s Digest for free

Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.

Financial companies including credit card issuers, banks and payment processors sit on a huge trove of their customers’ data. And they are increasingly seeking to monetise it. Companies including PayPal, Chase US and Revolut are moving to partner with advertisers to offer “transaction-enabled” marketing campaigns.

Meanwhile, customers are increasingly privacy conscious. Clients of UK financial services are also able to ask companies if they are using and storing their personal data, and request copies of this information under the Data Protection Act.

How do you feel about financial companies using your sensitive information to make money? Have you ever sent an access request to your bank or other financial institution asking for details of how they use your data? Have you ever encountered any issues with the use of your information or had a related dispute with a company?

FT Money would like to hear about your experiences. Please contact us in confidence at akila.quinio@ft.com