Mini skirts have been on fashion editors’ shortlists for some time. Those shortlists follow the will of the fashion-minded — and long, leggy looks are everywhere, from runways to after-parties.

Adding denim to the mix makes the mini skirt more versatile and more Y2K, which has been an enduring and dominant fashion theme. A-lister Natalie Portman showed us why denim minis have stood the test of time at the Arco premiere last October. Styling hers with kitten heels and a knit with a statement neckline, 40-something Portman looked polished as can be despite a very short hemline.

You can channel Portman’s confidence in the denim mini, as long as you know how to buy one you’ll actually wear. Here’s what you need to know about denim mini skirt hemlines, rises, washes, and shapes.

Read next: The Budget Fashionista’s guide to skirts

Hemlines: How short is too short?

The hemline is the first thing to get right, because it determines where, and how often, you’ll feel comfortable wearing that mini. Mini skirts range from upper-thigh to just above the knee. The options are roughly categorized as micro mini, classic mini, and long mini.

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Micro mini

Identify the halfway point between your knee and the top of your leg. Hemlines higher than that point are considered micro minis. Some are so short, you worry about flashing something when you sit down.

• When to wear. Nights out, vacations, festivals, and trendy looks.
• Cost-per-wear potential: Poor. You may not get much use out of a micro mini. They are fun, but highly situational.

Classic mini

Classic minis land near your mid-thigh. They are more wearable and adaptable than micros. You can dress a classic mini up with a pretty blouse or dress it down with a sweatshirt and sneakers.

• When to wear. Relaxed weekends, brunch, running errands, and casual dinners.
• Cost-per-wear potential: Good. You can get value from a classic mini only if you’re comfortable with the length.

Long mini

Long minis land just above your knee. They are slightly more versatile than classic minis – because you could wear them to work in some situations. This style is ideal if you like the mini silhouette, but prefer more modesty.

• When to wear. Relaxed weekends, brunch, running errands, casual dinners, and casual work environments.
• Cost-per-wear potential: Very good. This length is simple to style throughout the year and it’s not overly fussy or impractical.  

Read next: How to wear a mini skirt

Rise options: Waist height makes a difference

A skirt’s waist height affects comfort, proportion, and outfit composition. There are cute denim mini skirts in all rises. If you’re not sure which sounds best based on the descriptions, head to the mall and try some on. You’ll be drawn to the right rise immediately.

Low-rise

Low-rise denim mini skirts sit on your hips, below your belly button. This style fully embraces the Y2K fad.

• When to wear. As with micro mini, low-rise minis work best for your edgiest, trendiest looks. They generally demand longer tops.
• Cost-per-wear potential: Poor. Wearability is low, because it can be tricky to find tops that flatter with a low-rise skirt.

Mid-rise

Mid-rise skirts sit just below your natural waist. They generally pair nicely with t-shirts, sweaters, blouses, sneakers, sandals, and boots.

• When to wear. Every day for casual occasions.
• Cost-per-wear potential: Good. The mid-rise mini is very versatile, but harder to “dress up” than your next option, the high-rise skirt.

High-rise

High-rise minis sit at or above your natural waist. They emphasize the smallest part of your midsection and visually create a balanced silhouette.

• When to wear. Any occasion that demands an upgraded casual look. Date night, parties, casual workdays are all appropriate choices.
• Cost-per-wear potential: Very good. High-rise denim minis can step in for your casual activities and anchor more polished looks. It only takes the addition of one more piece to add that polish – say, a belt, cropped knit, or blazer.

Wash: How it affects your outfit

Research proves that people judge outfits fast. The wash or color of a denim mini is one of those influential factors, affecting how formal or casual your outfit looks to others.

• Light wash. Easygoing and laid-back.
• Medium wash. Midrange and versatile. Use the other pieces in the outfit to dress a medium wash skirt up or down.
• Dark wash. More polished and sophisticated.
• Black or ecru. Modern and trend-conscious.

Skirt shape: The most flattering cut

A skirt’s shape defines how the skirt fits and moves with you. Generally, shape dictates whether a skirt is flattering or unflattering.

Straight

Straight skirts are simple and understated. They do a good job of anchoring sleek and sophisticated outfits. You may find this shape most flattering with a fitted top, because a straight denim skirt can look bulky.

A-line

A-line skirts are fitted at the waist and gently widen from there. They are easy to wear and, usually, quite flattering with tucked blouses. You will want to experiment with different belt widths to find the option you like best.

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Button-front

Buttons down the front of a denim skirt break up the monotony. They also flatter in the way that vertical stripes do, by creating the appearance of length. You’ll want to keep the coordinating top simple so the buttons carry the outfit.

Cargo or pocketed

Cargo denim minis have a utilitarian, streetwear vibe. They’re casual, but in a trendy way. Pair them with t-shirts and feminine sandals.

Buying for cost-per-wear: Check your closet

When you’re looking to buy a denim mini skirt that adds maximum value, knowing what’s in your closet already is essential. The most practical garment is the one that complements the stuff you already own. So…

• If you have a lot of sweaters, opt for a classic or slightly longer denim mini. The structure will balance your bulky knits.
• If you have a lot of blazers, a straight or high-rise mini skirt in a medium or dark wash will be most useful.
• If you wear boots on the daily, shop for a slightly longer mini or A-line skirt in darker washes.
• If you are casual all day, every day, a classic-length mini in a light or medium wash could be your next favorite wardrobe staple.

Impulse buying is your enemy here. Before you commit, mentally design at least three outfits with the skirt and items you already own. If you can’t, keep shopping.

Quality check

Good denim delivers the best cost-per-wear because it lasts. Do a quality check before you buy something in a store or as soon as you receive an online purchase. Look for these signs of quality construction.

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• Solid feel. Not stiff but substantial. Hold the skirt up to the light and check that the color looks even throughout.
• Even stitching. Check seams and pockets.
• Tidy. You don’t want to see loose threds hanging around.
• Sturdy. Metal buttons and zippers should feel substantial, not flimsy.

Your perfect denim mini

Portman went micro, medium-wash on her denim mini, but your best option might be something quite different. Choosing a skirt that suits your lifestyle and your closet is a far better fashion choice than mimicking an A-lister. You’ll feel more confident and get far more value out of your purchase, too.