I went to Lisboeta to try chef Nuno Mendes’s white-bean feijoada, a vegetarian version of the Portuguese staple. But I was sidetracked by the bread porridge. Now there’s a sentence I never thought I’d write. This was thanks in equal part to the surprise factor of stale bread being transformed into something so rich and comforting, and also the effortless (and easily replicated) glamour of any plate crowned with an egg yolk.
This recipe is the result of some back and forth, testing and retesting, to create a version of the dish that is simple enough to cook at home, without losing any of its sophistication.
To drink
Dry Madeira and mushrooms are a classic combination and “super under the radar,” says Nuno. Use the same one you use in the recipe.
Substitutions
The depth of flavour from shiitake mushrooms makes them preferable to other varieties. You can use Madeira throughout instead of port. Stale sourdough has the best texture, but any bread would work, including fresh.
Tip
Because of their high water content, mushrooms take far longer to cook than most people realise, particularly for a dish like this where you’re trying to create an intense flavour.
Nuno Mendes’s Mushroom Açorda
To serve four
For the stock and mushrooms
For the açorda
The night before cooking, soak the bread in 300ml of water and leave it in the fridge. Turn the bread occasionally so that the water penetrates evenly. (If you need to use more water, that’s fine, but make sure to drain well afterwards so it’s not waterlogged.)
To make the stock
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Start by peeling and cutting the onion in half, and cutting the mushrooms into 1cm-thick slices.
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Add the olive oil, halved onion and mushrooms to the pan, and cook on a low heat, then a higher heat once they have released their water. Get the mushrooms to the point where they are golden-brown — this will take about half an hour.
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Add half the Madeira and let it cook off, so there is no liquid in the pan.
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Add the water, bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes.
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Set aside for 10 minutes to cool and then strain, discarding the onion but making sure to retain the mushrooms in a bowl. Add the rest of the Madeira to the stock and season to taste.
To make the açorda
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Finely dice the white onion and garlic.
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Add the olive oil and garlic to a medium pan on a low heat then, after two minutes, add the onion, coriander stems, spices and half the mushrooms from the strained stock and fry everything until golden brown.
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Add the port, soaked bread and 50ml of the stock, cooking on a low heat until everything comes together into a pastelike texture. Check for seasoning and keep adding more stock if you need to loosen the mix.
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Fry the remaining cooked mushrooms separately in a touch of olive oil until they are crispy again.
To serve
Place the açorda in the middle of a plate. Distribute the just-fried mushrooms on top of the dish, then add a raw egg yolk to the middle. Before serving, top with two tbs of mushroom stock.
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