Bitcoin briefly fell below $60,000 on Friday, “extending its weekly loss to nearly 20% and threatening to fall below $59,000,” reports CoinDesk. Crypto was also hit by a 40%-plus plunge in Zcash after Shielded Labs disclosed a years-old bug that could have allowed undetected counterfeit ZEC creation. From the report: Now, with stocks in plunge mode — the Nasdaq down nearly 4% on Friday — bitcoin finds itself perfectly correlated. “Short term, Bitcoin feels like swallowing broken glass,” wrote Jeff Swanson Friday. “The chart goes up. It goes down. It makes grown men cry into their Robinhood accounts and CNBC anchors smugly declare the funeral, for the eleventh time.” “Here’s what uncomfortable people don’t understand: the discomfort is the yield. Every paper-handed panic seller is handing their future to someone with a longer time horizon and a colder storage device.”
[…] Earlier, Shielded Labs, a nonprofit developer on the privacy token system, disclosed a critical vulnerability in Zcash’s (ZEC) Orchard privacy pool that could have threatened the integrity of the token’s supply. The vulnerability, if exploited, could have allowed an attacker to create an unlimited number of counterfeit ZEC tokens, completely undetected. “Think of it as someone secretly gaining access to the Federal Reserve’s dollar printing press, except in this case, even the Fed wouldn’t be able to tell these extra dollars were printed,” wrote Omkar Godbole. Importantly, the vulnerability was discovered with help from Anthropic’s recently released Opus 4.8 AI model, raising difficult questions for the entire crypto industry. More to come on that. ZEC is now down 42% over the past 24 hours. On Wednesday, the Zcash Foundation said: “The vulnerability was caught before any known exploitation occurred. There is no evidence of unauthorized value creation. Zcash’s turnstile mechanism (which tracks the total ZEC balance across all value pools) confirmed that the total supply remained intact throughout. User privacy was not affected. Sapling and transparent transactions continued operating normally throughout the incident.”
Following Sony’s June 2026 State of Play, which contained plenty of PC game announcements, Summer Game Fest brought more world premieres and new previews. Microsoft is set to showcase more games this Sunday. Read Entire Article Source link
These days, we take it for granted that a video game console will have multiple USB ports. There’s even an expectation that basic peripherals such as storage devices will “Just Work” when plugged into the system — a far cry from the days when each system had its own proprietary memory card.
The original Xbox from 2001 actually had USB ports as well, it’s just that they were used for the controllers and had non-standard connectors that kept you from plugging in other devices. But a simple adapter gets you a standard USB-A port, and after that it’s just a matter of software. Like this homebrew project to get generic USB webcams working on Microsoft’s first foray into console gaming.
Well, “generic” may be pushing it a bit, as the project by [Darkone83] currently lists only two compatible cameras. The first is the Xbox Live Vision Camera, which was never intended to be used on the original Xbox and was instead an accessory for Microsoft’s follow-up console, the Xbox 360. Interestingly, the other supported camera happens to be Sony’s PS2 EyeToy. Claiming that you plugged a PS2 camera into your Xbox would have been fighting words back on the playground circa 2003, but now it’s a reality thanks to the power of open source.
Now there technically was a camera for the original Xbox, but it was only released in Japan and is quite rare. Perhaps unsurprisingly it used the same OV519 chipset as the EyeToy and later Vision Camera, and reverse engineering how the console communicated with it was critical to the development of this project.
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As of right now, there’s not much practical application for this webcam driver. It just shows the image from the camera on your TV in glorious 320×240 resolution. But now that the code to make it work is out in the wild, hopefully other Xbox homebrew projects will add support for it.
It’s launching earlier than planned if everything goes well.
NASA/Scott Wiessinger
NASA is targeting an August 30, 2026 launch date for the Nancy Grace Roman Space Telescope, eight months earlier than originally planned and sooner than the September schedule it announced earlier this year. In late May, NASA Goddard engineers completed their final inspection of the infrared telescope’s primary mirror, ensuring that no specks fell onto it during testing and making sure it remains in proper alignment after a “shake test.” The 7.9-foot mirror will collect and focus light from cosmic objects, as the telescope observes the universe to look for answers about dark energy and to determine how common solar systems like ours are.
The agency’s engineers are now packing up the telescope so it can be shipped from the Goddard Space Flight Center in Greenbelt, Maryland to the Kennedy Space Center in Florida later this month. When it arrives at Kennedy, Roman will go through a thorough inspection to verify that nothing broke during its transportation. In the weeks leading to its target launch, it will undergo a series of tests rehearsals. It will of course be loaded with fuel and then encapsulated into a protective fairing before being installed on top of a SpaceX Falcon Heavy rocket for launch.
The space telescope, which was named after NASA’s first chief astronomer, has a field of view 100 times larger Hubble. That will enable Roman to capture more of the sky in less time once it arrives at its destination, where it will join the James Webb Space Telescope at the Sun-Earth L2 Lagrange point that’s located behind our planet.
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“All this work will culminate in Roman delivering never-before seen views of the universe,” NASA said in its announcement. Further, while Roman has its own objectives, it will provide observational capabilities to astronomers with other goals and give them access to data that could answer more questions about the universe.
Comfortable, secure fit with upgraded slim C-ring and air cushions
Good sound for the price
They’re equipped with Bluetooth 6.0 and are fully waterproof and dustproof with an IP67 rating
Physical button for playback and volume control
Solid battery life and decent voice-calling performance
Cons
Rounded case is a little slippery
Can distort a bit at higher volumes
Not too long after the release of Bose’s premium-priced Ultra Open Earbuds, budget clip-on earbuds started appearing, and they sounded pretty mediocre and looked pretty cheap, too. But in the last several months, I’ve tested an increasing number of affordable versions of this new earring style of open true-wireless earbuds that sound surprisingly good. Case in point: Baseus’ Bowie MC2 buds, which list for $80 but can be had for $60 after you apply an instant $20-off coupon on their product page at Amazon or the company’s site.
The Bowie MC2 improves upon the earlier MC1 with superior sound and a design that’s a little less generic. (Don’t confuse it for the $10 cheaper MC2 Air buds, which are a slight step-down for sound and build quality.) They’re also a bit more comfortable, thanks to an upgraded “slim wave C-ring” and “air cushions” that come in three sizes.
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Equipped with Bluetooth 6.0, they have an IP67 certification, which means the buds are fully waterproof and dustproof, making them suitable for runners and bikers. I also like that they have a small physical control button on each earbud to control playback and adjust volume. (You can customize the controls and adjust equalizer settings in the Baseus companion app.)
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The Baseus Bowie MC2 are currently available in two color options: white or black.
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David Carnoy/CNET
Cleaner, slightly bigger sound
The buds offer a bit better performance to the Bowie MC1 Pro. I felt they sounded a little cleaner with slightly bigger sound overall and less distortion at higher volumes. (The MC2 has slightly larger 11-millimeter drivers instead of the 10.8mm driver found in the MC1 Pro.)
The sound does change a bit depending on where you place the buds on your ears, with a little bit of adjustment yielding more bass. These buds, like other clip-on open buds, aren’t designed for critical listening. But what’s notable is that the sound is now respectable, with decent bass and treble response along with fairly natural-sounding mids (where voices live). Because they’re open earbuds — and they sound open, which is good — they do better in quieter environments because ambient sound will leak into your ears and compete with whatever you’re listening to.
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The buds in their charging case. Battery life is rated at up to 11.5 hours.
David Carnoy/CNET
As far as competing models go, Earfun has improved the sound of its Clip 2 earbuds from its original Clip buds. However, they didn’t fit my ears quite as well as the Baseus Bowie MC2 buds, and the sound ended up coming across as a little recessed (less open) by comparison because the driver sat further outside my ear canal. I also thought the MC2’s sound was noticeably cleaner overall, particularly at higher volumes. Also, the bass response was better to my ears. Again, some of these sound differences may have been affected by the fit, but I’d still rate the Baseus buds higher for sound quality. (I manually pushed the drivers closer to my ear canals to optimize the sound quality to try to eliminate fit as a variable as much as I could.)
While not quite in the same league as Bose’s Ultra Open Earbuds, Shokz’ Open Dots or Baseus’ own Inspire XC1 clip-on buds, they’re only a very small step down for sound quality but cost a lot less.
Like the MC1 Pro, these have support for the LDAC audio codec (along with AAC and SBC) for Android devices and multipoint Bluetooth pairing. A low-latency gaming mode is also available.
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The buds from another angle.
David Carnoy/CNET
Good voice-calling performance and battery life
Voice-calling capabilities are also good; like the MC1 Pro, they have two microphones per bud. Callers told me they heard only minimal background noise, while my voice sounded acceptably clear when I spoke to them from the noisy streets of New York.
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As for battery life, the buds are rated for up to 11.5 hours at moderate volume levels with bass boost engaged. (Baseus markets this as Super Bass 3.0.) That’s superior battery life to a lot of noise-canceling earbuds, which are generally in the 6 to 8 hour range. I kept the bass boost on when I was listening to music and the volume around 60% to 70%, so I didn’t quite hit the 11.5-hour mark and registered closer to around 10 hours of playback.
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Testing them in the streets of New York.
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Baseus Bowie MC2 final thoughts
Baseus is quickly becoming a leader in value headphones and earbuds, and its Bowie MC2 buds are easily among the best budget clip-on earbuds I’ve tested as of June 2026. They cost around $60 at Amazon, and Baseus also throws in a bonus item with your purchase. As of this writing, you can get Baseus BP1 Pro noise-canceling buds, which are valued at $24. Baseus bonus items have a tendency to change over time, so that item may be different in the future or not available at all. But at the moment, getting an extra set of budget ANC earbuds with a set of top-value clip-on buds that exceeded my expectations is a pretty nice deal.
Samsung’s next clamshell foldable may arrive with a familiar frustration. New reports suggest the upcoming Galaxy Z Flip 8 could retain the same 25W wired charging speed as its predecessor, extending a trend that has now lasted several generations.
According to recent leaks, Samsung is expected to keep both the charging speed and battery capacity largely unchanged on the Galaxy Z Flip 8. If the reports prove accurate, the device will continue to use a 4,300mAh battery paired with 25W wired charging – specifications that have become increasingly difficult to justify as rivals push far beyond them.
The timing is particularly noteworthy because Samsung may be preparing a charging upgrade for its larger foldable sibling, the Galaxy Z Fold 8. Regulatory filings and industry reports indicate the Fold 8 could jump to 45W charging, potentially leaving the Flip lineup behind once again.
Samsung’s flip phone may be standing still while rivals move ahead
The Galaxy Z Flip series has historically prioritized design and portability over battery and charging performance, but that strategy is facing increasing pressure. Competing foldables from brands such as Motorola have already adopted faster charging technologies, with some models offering charging speeds between 30W and 45W.
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For consumers, charging speed is one of the most noticeable day-to-day features. While processor upgrades and AI capabilities often dominate marketing campaigns, faster charging can have a much greater impact on everyday convenience. A phone that reaches usable battery levels in minutes rather than nearly an hour can dramatically improve the ownership experience.
Galaxy Z Flip 6Unsplash
Reports also suggest the Galaxy Z Flip 8 may retain the same 4,300mAh battery capacity found in the Galaxy Z Flip 7. That means Samsung could be focusing its efforts elsewhere, including chipset improvements, software enhancements, AI features, and refinements to the foldable design itself.
Leaks indicate the device may feature a thinner chassis, reduced display crease visibility, and Samsung’s next-generation Exynos processor, but none of those changes directly address charging concerns.
Galaxy Z Flip 8 could end up being a modest refresh
The broader picture emerging from leaks is that the Galaxy Z Flip 8 may be an iterative upgrade rather than a major redesign. Rumors point to largely unchanged cameras, similar display specifications, and minimal external design changes compared to the current model.
That does not necessarily make the phone a bad product. Samsung’s foldables remain among the most polished devices in the category, and the company continues to lead the global foldable market. However, consumers hoping for meaningful battery or charging improvements may need to temper their expectations.
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Samsung is widely expected to unveil the Galaxy Z Flip 8 during its summer Galaxy Unpacked event, reportedly scheduled for July. Until then, additional leaks will likely reveal whether the company has any last-minute surprises planned for its next-generation foldable.
Reid Hoffman speaks at a Tech Alliance event in Seattle in 2017. (GeekWire File Photo / Todd Bishop)
Reid Hoffman, the LinkedIn co-founder who has served on Microsoft’s board since 2017, will not stand for re-election at the company’s 2026 annual meeting, ending a board tenure that coincided with some of the most consequential years in the tech giant’s history.
Hoffman informed Microsoft on June 2 that he will not stand for re-election at its 2026 annual shareholder meeting, according to an SEC filing. He will remain a director until that meeting, later this year.
The filing states that Hoffman’s decision was not the result of any disagreement with management over the company’s operations, policies or practices. Microsoft thanked him for his contributions.
On an episode of his “Possible” podcast, released Friday morning, Hoffman told Microsoft CEO Satya Nadella that he wanted to return to “founder mode” to focus on Manas AI, the cancer drug-discovery startup he co-founded, citing early progress there.
Nadella thanked him for his board service and said he was eager to see what Hoffman builds next. “I am so grateful for all of your contributions to Microsoft and the board over the years, and excited to see you get back to founder mode with Manas,” Nadella wrote in a LinkedIn comment.
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Hoffman joined the board after Microsoft’s $26.2 billion acquisition of LinkedIn, the professional network he co-founded in 2003. A longtime Greylock Partners investor and prominent Democratic donor, he served on the board’s Environmental, Social and Public Policy Committee.
His exit follows three consecutive years of opposition from the National Legal and Policy Center, a conservative shareholder group that urged investors to vote against his re-election, citing his political activities and other concerns. Shareholders re-elected him each time, most recently in December 2025.
Hoffman’s name has also surfaced in the long-running fallout over the late financier Jeffrey Epstein. Hoffman has said his dealings with Epstein were limited to fundraising for MIT’s Media Lab, including a 2014 visit to Epstein’s island that he has said he regrets, and he has not been accused of wrongdoing.
Documents and emails released in the federal Epstein files indicated more contact than he had previously acknowledged. In November 2025, the Justice Department said it would investigate Epstein’s ties to Hoffman and other Democrats after President Trump called for a probe. Hoffman has called the scrutiny baseless and politically motivated.
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Hoffman has been one of Silicon Valley’s most active figures in AI, both as an investor and a hands-on experimenter. He was an early investor in OpenAI and sat on its board until resigning in March 2023, citing potential conflicts with his AI investments at Greylock and his role as a founder of Inflection AI, the startup he co-founded in 2022 with DeepMind co-founder Mustafa Suleyman.
Microsoft hired Suleyman and most of Inflection’s staff in March 2024, installing Suleyman as CEO of a new Microsoft AI division, and struck a licensing deal with Inflection reportedly worth $650 million.
Editor’s note: This story was updated to add background on Hoffman’s ties to Jeffrey Epstein.
A 3D printer might have been one of the most exciting purchases my household has ever made. First, our basic bed-slinger 3D printers were simple enough that a 12-year-old could put them together solo. Plus, the ability to print basically whatever we wanted, whenever we wanted, was super cool.
A few years ago, as a newbie to 3D printing, I spent ages on Google researching possible fixes for all the weird problems that cropped up. Even now, as our printers are becoming old news as technology advances, the same issues continue to plague 3D printing forums. Things often go wrong with 3D printers, and often in weird ways, but especially with bed-slinger models. Here’s what to consider could go wrong, plus how to fix it — or at least a starting point for finding a fix.
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Blown fuses
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For anyone who’s worked on any kind of machine before, it’s probably not surprising to learn that 3D printers have fuses. Yet if your printer suddenly stops working, you might not suspect a blown fuse as the primary culprit. Since many different things can go wrong with a 3D printer, checking at least one of its fuses can be a good place to start troubleshooting.
A couple of signs that your printer has a blown fuse include failure to power up or a completely blank and unresponsive touch screen. With Elegoo printers, for example, the primary indicator that you’ve blown a fuse is the touch screen failing to work. Elegoo suggests checking the fuse in the power switch before moving on to other potential issues.
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In most cases, fixing a blown fuse is straightforward. On Elegoo printers, the power switch fuse pops out of a tiny compartment next to or inside the power cable port. On other printers, like a Prusa 3D printer, you might need to change the fuses on your printer’s sandwich board, modular board, or XL Splitter board. Of course, you should proceed with caution if you’re opening up your 3D printer’s guts — especially if the manufacturer doesn’t endorse that kind of DIY fix.
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Outdated drivers
There are plenty of important things to know about 3D printing, many of which you’ll learn through trial and error. After all, 3D printing is inherently an adventure in DIY, and we’re not just talking about the actual printing of your custom files. While we would argue that 3D printing can be accessible to just about everyone, you may need a little technical know-how.
Case in point? Like your PC or laptop, 3D printers require drivers. If something goes wrong with a driver, you might be facing a blue screen of death. Unlike a computer, though, a 3D printer can — in our experience — be brought back to life after the death screen.
Many newer printers are like your Wi-Fi-enabled home printer — they can stay connected to the internet and automatically download updates. If you’re working with an offline printer, however, you’ll need to manually download the firmware, then install it on your machine. The most important step to reviving a 3D printer with an outdated driver is to make sure you find the right firmware package for your make and model. Bambu Lab makes that easy with its Wiki, and other manufacturers have a similar offering.
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Melted wires
Possibly one of the most frustrating yet weird things that can go wrong with your 3D printer is the heat of the bed or hot end melting your cables. Given that certain parts of a 3D printer can get very hot — the nozzle could hit 554 degrees Fahrenheit, depending on the printer and the filament you’re working with — you might expect some heatproofing on the components.
Though our Creality and Elegoo printers have the cables bundled together, we’ve still had melty experiences when leaving printers unattended. In fact, that was one of the earliest experiences my household had with 3D printers, which led us to a bunch of 3D printed accessories, including cable management pieces.
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The good news is that even if your cables are exposed to high heat, the contact may be brief enough that you don’t have to replace the cables. We felt comfortable continuing to use our 3D printer post-melt because the inner wires were not exposed, but that’s not expert advice by any means. Our best advice is to secure your cables before you ever hit the power switch on a new printer, just in case.
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Faulty thermistor
Sure, 3D printing can save you money, but it’s also wise to set aside a budget for not only 3D printer accessories, but also replacement parts. Plenty of things can go wrong, and you may not always be able to fix a specific part. One of the weird things that seems to go wrong more often than you may expect is a faulty thermistor.
One warning sign that your thermistor is bad, according to Creality, is temperature fluctuation. Whether your hot end doesn’t reach full heat, or your printer bed can’t maintain a steady temperature, the thermistor could be at fault. Some printers will also throw up error codes, specifically flagging thermal runaway, and a faulty thermistor could be the culprit. Fortunately, a replacement hot end with thermistor for our Creality Ender-3 V2 was only about $20 on Amazon, but it still involved some time, patience, and a bit of support from Creality.
Your printer likely has two thermistors, though some have three. For example, Prusa printers have these temperature sensors on both the hot end and the printer bed, but the Prusa i3 MK3S+ has a third for monitoring ambient temperature. You might need some basic tools (like multiple sizes of Allen keys, a screwdriver, and pliers) for thermistor replacement, and your best bet is to find a guide specific to your printer brand and model.
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Incorrect voltage
One especially weird problem that I never expected with 3D printers was the possibility for the printer to be set to the wrong voltage. Although many newer budget-friendly 3D printers may have remedied the issue, a friend once struggled to power up their used Creality machine. Only when they realized their Ender had a voltage switch set to 230V (for Europe) instead of 115V (most common in North America) were they able to actually use the printer.
In our friend’s case, the printer wouldn’t turn on at all when plugged in and set to the wrong voltage. However, Elegoo, for one, notes that the wrong voltage can cause issues like unexpected restarts due to low power, motherboard damage, or a fire. If you have a new (or new to you) 3D printer that won’t power up or randomly powers down, checking the voltage settings could help resolve the problem.
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That said, some newer 3D printers reportedly have auto-switching power supplies. For example, Bambu Lab has a power supply that auto-switches based on whether you’re using a filament dryer or only the printer itself. Be sure to read the manufacturer’s guide for your particular model, though. Despite a thorough search, we had a hard time finding specifics on voltage switching for big-name models like Creality, Bambu Lab, and Elegoo.
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Filament clog
Since a 3D printer’s job is to print 3D objects, you might think that it would just… do that. Unfortunately, most 3D printers eventually stop printing, albeit temporarily, due to filament clogs. Clogs seem to be a common problem with a variety of printers (at least, in our experience with Creality and Elegoo, to name two).
Filament clogs are so common that Creality, for one, has a guide on how to clear clogs. That guide also involves steps on how to disassemble your hot end to remove filament from the extruder shell, gears, and even inside the buffer casing. It’s not exactly fun to scrape filament out of your printer, but that’s not the worst part.
The most challenging part of filament clogs is that it’s hard to figure out why they happen. Bambu Lab lists common extruder clog causes as excessive heat, extrusion gear inconsistencies, overly soft filament (or damp PVA), and inconsistent filament diameter. Nozzle clogs, however, can be caused by a lack of heat and partial pre-existing clogs. It may take some trial and error to resolve the problem that’s causing clogs. You might want some spare parts on hand, like a new hot end or, at the very least, spare nozzles.
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Thermal runaway
Jiri ‘Tashi’ Vondracek/Shutterstock
In some cases, thermal runaway can be caused by a faulty thermistor. Replacing a thermistor is its own issue, but fortunately, not the most complicated fix we’ve encountered. Yet in other cases, thermal runaway is its own problem that requires some sleuthing and troubleshooting.
Though it’s frustrating, thermal runaway auto-shutoffs are a safety feature. As Prusa explains, the safety feature cuts off the heat to avoid fires. Yet thermal runaway can happen in many different situations where it’s unlikely a fire will happen. For example, Prusa gives a possible scenario where low ambient temperatures (like an unheated garage in the winter) can lead to thermal runaway because when the printer fan turns on, the printer lacks the power to maintain its necessary temperature. If you’ve determined that external temperatures aren’t a factor, and your equipment is otherwise functional, you may want to perform PID tuning.
PID stands for Proportional Integral Derivative, and tuning PID is basically calibrating your printer to get its heat calculations correct. Fortunately, most 3D printer brands offer guides on how to handle PID tuning, because the process is different between, for example, Creality and Prusa printers.
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Layer shift
The first time you experience layer shift with a 3D printer, you might be a bit miffed. If 3D printers are meant to 3D print, why is it so difficult to get a quality print sometimes? It turns out that like any other machine, a 3D printer needs some TLC, especially if it’s a bed-slinger model (which our Creality and Elegoo machines are).
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Bed-slinger 3D printers involve movement of the print head along the X- and Z-axes, while the bed moves along the Y-axis. With so much movement of the bed — unlike Core XY printers, where the bed is stationary — it’s inevitable that a bed-slinger 3D printer will occasionally need a mechanical tune-up.
Unfortunately, layer shift could be the first indication that your printer has loose parts, or that you’re trying to run it at a speed it can’t quite manage. Plus, the larger your printer, the higher the odds it will develop problems with speed and vibration, says Creality, because the problems essentially scale up with it. If you’re experiencing layer shift, troubleshooting can start with checking for physical barriers to the bed moving properly, making sure your filament is dry, and slowing down the print speed.
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Cold nozzle
Failure to heat up sufficiently is a relatable problem with 3D printers of all types. How you address the problem depends on whether it’s a hot end or bed heating issue. If you’ve determined that the bed is plenty toasty, the hot end could have an unseen issue that’s making your prints fail, or fail to start at all.
A cold nozzle is another offbeat problem with 3D printers that can have a range of causes. If your nozzle (and thus the hot end itself) fails to heat up at all, the problem might be easier to troubleshoot than if you have temperature fluctuations after reaching your desired temp. If there’s no power going to the hot end, you may have a thermistor issue, a blown fuse, or an incorrect setting.
Conversely, if the hot end gets hot, but then fluctuates, you might be looking at the same issues and an array of other ones. While the problem could still be the thermistor, fuse, or firmware, partial filament clogs, dry filament, or loose wires could also be to blame. Some printers will throw an error code (an Elegoo may give code 103, for example), which gives you a place to start troubleshooting.
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Brittle filament
Novikov Aleksey/Shutterstock
Like other 3D printer mishaps, layer shift is a problem with a long list of potential causes. One of those potential causes is the filament itself. Moist filament can behave differently in a 3D printer than properly dry material, for starters. Yet temperature and humidity fluctuations can also make your filament too brittle to print properly, leading to layer shift, clogs, and other problems. Moisture basically degrades the quality of the filament over time, and that can happen even in relatively dry-feeling environments.
A brittle filament can snap between your fingers, or you might not notice a problem until you’re trying to print with it. A simple way to fix (and avoid) brittle filament is to keep it stored in a dry and temperature-controlled environment. Polymaker, a filament brand, suggests drying your filament before printing for the best results.
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Though Polymaker mentions using an oven to dry your filament, we’d recommend a filament dryer. Not only do various filament types have ingredients that are definitely not meant to mingle with food, but filament dryers are basically set-and-forget. Most filament spools will arrive packaged in plastic, complete with desiccant packets, which are suitable for storage. Once you open your filament, check for flexibility before printing, and consider a spin in the dryer first.
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Dirty build plate
You might expect a 3D printer to work perfectly out of the box because it’s brand-new. Unfortunately, that wasn’t our experience with our first, second, or third printer. We learned pretty quickly that a bare-bones printer required a lot more effort than we expected. On a positive note, most 3D printers are practically infinitely customizable. One of the best investments we made was flexible build plate surfaces for each of our printers.
Each time you print on a glass bed, cleaning the filament off might be a struggle. Especially if you let the printer cool down first, it may be nearly impossible to remove prints that cover a significant surface area. I admit to running some prints under hot water to get them to come off the build plate, but even that didn’t help get all the gunk off.
The problem is that even invisible debris can affect bed adhesion and, therefore, the quality of your prints, if not the success of the print job itself. A scraper is a useful 3D printed tool to help keep your print bed clean, but don’t stop there. Consider a flexible build plate add-on, and make sure to clean it regularly after you scrape any filament or printer glue off it. Isopropyl alcohol is a recommended cleaner for glass and most other bed types, according to Creality, but our advice is to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for your printer or the build plate you add onto it.
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Clicking
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3D printers make a lot of noises, and not all of them are a bad thing. Yet a clicking noise coming from your 3D printer is probably not good. One common problem that results in a clicking sound is the extruder having problems. According to Creality, there are many reasons why your extruder may click, and all of them involve some close examination and trial and error to solve.
A filament clog could lead to clicking, as could temperature problems that trap filament inside the nozzle or cause it to get backed up into the hot end. Clicking can also be a result of the filament tension being too tight. If your filament roll has the loose end pulled taut, that’s not a good sign. Wet filament (even if it has dried) can become misshapen, which can lead to the same clogging type issues.
Temperature inconsistencies, including the extruder motor overheating because of clogs, can also cause clicking. Creality recommends checking for clogs, ensuring your filament is in good shape, and taking a close look at the mechanical inner workings of your printer to make sure gears aren’t slipping.
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Random beeping
Have you ever turned on your 3D printer, set up a print, and it started working… only to have it freeze and start beeping almost immediately? It’s one of the weirdest problems we’ve had with 3D printers, and it seems like an inexplicable issue. What problem could possibly result in the printer stopping and screaming at us?
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This weird problem, like many others, can have a few different causes. Newer printers may also throw up an error code while beeping, while others might act like they’re having a meltdown with no explanation. While most 3D printer brands don’t specifically address beeping (likely because they address the associated error codes), nearly any kind of issue can cause a printer to freeze and alert you.
In fact, just about every weird thing that can go wrong with your printer could create an error code. For example, some printers seem to freeze up when the file you’re using is corrupt, or if your SD card wasn’t formatted properly. Others will alert when there is a thermistor issue, while firmware incompatibility can also halt a print. In short, if your printer beeps and freezes without giving a descriptive error code, you may have to start from zero when it comes to troubleshooting.
Questyle is moving beyond portable DACs, and desktop headphone amplification with the debut of its QMS Streaming System at HIGH END Vienna 2026. The new platform combines the iXStreamer with the E5 (5-inch) and E4 (4-inch) wireless bookshelf speakers, creating an end-to-end lossless streaming system designed for whole-home audio without turning the living room into a cable crime scene.
They are not the first Asia-based hi-fi brand to make this move over the past 12 months. Eversolo has already pushed deeper into compact streaming systems with the Play and Play CD Edition streaming amplifiers, along with its SE100 passive bookshelf speakers. WiiM has done the same from the value side with the WiiM Ultra and WiiM Amp Ultra network players/streaming amplifiers, plus the WiiM Sound wireless speaker.
That does not make Questyle late. It makes the category more interesting. Based on our extensive experience with Questyle products over the past six years, especially its portable DACs and headphone amplifiers, the QMS Streaming System could be a compelling option for listeners who want real hi-fi performance in smaller spaces without building a traditional rack-based system.
“The QMS System is an integrated masterpiece of acoustic aesthetics and cutting-edge technology,” says Questyle CEOJason Wang, “We are happy to take this next step with SEAS in our shared mission of creating world-class listening experiences for all users and scenarios.”
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iXStreamer: Questyle’s Compact Hub for Lossless Whole-Home Audio
At the center of Questyle’s QMS Streaming System is the iXStreamer, a compact streaming hub designed to handle wireless and wired digital audio inside a modern home audio setup.
The iXStreamer supports Wi-Fi 6 and Bluetooth, with compatibility for LDAC and the full aptX codec family. That gives it broader wireless support than the usual “Bluetooth included, good luck” approach, especially for Android users with higher-quality codec support.
Questyle is also making a clear play for Apple households. The iXStreamer works with AirPlay 2 and can connect to Apple TV through HDMI ARC/eARC, which makes it easier to integrate into a living room system without needing a separate pile of boxes.
Inside, the iXStreamer uses a dual-mono dual ESS9069 DAC design paired with dual current-mode preamplifiers. That part matters because Questyle has built much of its reputation around Current Mode Amplification, and this system appears to bring that design thinking into a whole-home streaming platform rather than just another desktop DAC or portable dongle.
Streaming service support includes TIDAL, Spotify, Roon Ready, QPlay, and QQ Music. That makes the iXStreamer more than a Bluetooth receiver with better manners. It is intended to serve as the control hub for Questyle’s QMS ecosystem, including the E5 and E4 wireless bookshelf speakers.
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E5 and E4: Questyle Teams with SEAS on Compact Wireless Bookshelf Speakers
The E5 and E4 wireless bookshelf speakers are the playback end of Questyle’s QMS Streaming System, and they may be the most interesting part of the announcement.
Questyle says the new Elements series was developed in collaboration with SEAS, the long-running Norwegian driver specialist, with the partnership being introduced at HIGH END Vienna 2026.
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The E5 uses a 5-inch driver configuration, while the smaller E4 uses a 4-inch platform. Both models are designed as wireless bookshelf speakers for Questyle’s QMS ecosystem, with lossless end-to-end audio transmission, smartphone app control, and the ability to operate as independent speakers or as part of a larger grouped system.
Questyle is also leaning on its own DAC and amplifier architecture here. The E5 and E4 are equipped with a dual-mono ESS DAC design and Questyle’s patented current-mode power amplifier technology, which is intended to reduce distortion and improve control. That matters more than the usual “wireless lifestyle speaker” language, because Questyle has spent years building its reputation around DACs, portable amplifiers, and Current Mode Amplification rather than plastic countertop noise boxes.
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Connectivity includes HDMI, optical, coaxial, and analog audio inputs, giving the E5 and E4 more flexibility than many wireless speakers in this category. Matter smart home protocol compatibility is also listed, which suggests Questyle wants these speakers to fit into modern connected homes without making users manage yet another island of audio hardware.
The system supports Wi-Fi 6E high-speed transmission and uses a minimalist Bauhaus-inspired design. It also supports Apple AirPlay 2, HUAWEI HiPlay, and Roon Ready wireless streaming protocols, giving users multiple ways to send high-resolution audio across a home network with lower latency, better stability, and multi-device support.
The Questyle E5 supports PCM playback up to 768kHz/24-bit and native DSD256, placing it firmly in high-resolution territory for a wireless active loudspeaker.
The standard E5 uses a 5.25-inch mid-woofer paired with an AMT tweeter. Questyle’s folded AMT diaphragm increases the effective radiating area compared with a conventional dome tweeter, allowing it to move air quickly and reproduce upper-frequency detail with greater speed and openness.
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Each speaker also incorporates a 400-watt gallium nitride power system, giving a stereo pair more than 800 watts of total amplification. Questyle’s patented Current Mode linear amplifier topology is built into the mainboard, while its TTA Three-tier DAC Architecture separates the DAC, preamplifier, and power amplifier stages into distinct zones. The tweeter and woofer are driven by independent amplifiers, giving the E5 a bi-amplified architecture designed to improve control, dynamics, and transient response.
Questyle says the entire acoustic system has been tuned for a balanced, smooth, and natural hi-fi presentation rather than the overly etched sound that sometimes passes for “detail” in active wireless speakers.
Questyle E5 Wireless Hi-Fi Speakers in Oceanic Blue
The Bottom Line
Questyle’s QMS Streaming System looks like a logical next step for a company that has spent years building credibility around DACs, portable amplifiers, and Current Mode Amplification. The iXStreamer, E5, and E4 suggest that Questyle wants to move beyond personal audio into compact whole-home hi-fi, and the SEAS partnership gives the speaker side of the story some needed engineering weight.
The iXStreamer and E5/E4 wireless bookshelf speakers are not expected to be available until September, so this is still a rather early preview. Based on our experience with Questyle, the QMS system could be a very interesting option for smaller rooms, desktops, apartments, and listeners who want fewer boxes without giving up on sound quality. But until we know the price and hear the finished system, the jury remains out. The cable drawer may finally be nervous, but it can keep breathing for now.
The superyacht Launchpad, right, passes in front of the Walla Walla, a Washington State Ferries vessel making the run from Kingston to Edmonds across Puget Sound on Thursday. (Tim Davis Photo / timdavisimages)
Give way, Washington State Ferries, Mark Zuckerberg’s superyacht has a new port of call — it’s now north of Seattle off Everett, Wash.
Launchpad was spotted Thursday making the move from Elliott Bay in Seattle. According to MarineTraffic, the Meta CEO’s vessel anchored in Port Gardner Bay near Naval Station Everett around 5:30 p.m. on Thursday.
Tim Davis, a Kingston, Wash., photographer, shared images on Facebook — naturally! — as he saw the yacht pass President Point. His post is loaded with comments from others who saw the ship, from land or from ferries crisscrossing Puget Sound.
Davis said MarineTraffic has the yacht’s destination as “salmon country,” which some speculated could mean it’s headed to Alaska.
A dot on a map shows the superyacht Launchpad anchored off Everett, Wash., on Friday. (Screen grab via MarineTraffic.com)
Since arriving in Seattle on May 27 and passing through the Ballard Locks before mooring on Lake Union for a couple days, the $300 million, 387-foot Launchpad has drawn gawkers and protesters. No indication has been given about why the vessel was in the Pacific Northwest or whether Zuckerberg would be joining it.
Wingman, a 262-foot support vessel that can carry tender boats, a helicopter and other toys, has been docked at Smith Cove in Seattle, where it remained on Friday morning.
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The vessels arrived in Seattle the same day Meta disclosed plans to cut nearly 1,400 jobs in Washington state. That amounted to about 20% of its local workforce, part of a broader reduction of roughly 8,000 positions companywide.
Some on Facebook called the yacht “a grotesque display of wealth owned by a tone deaf billionaire” while others called it a “gorgeous boat” and defended Zuckerberg as someone who “earned it” and who employs thousands of people.
Smartphones already handle the hard part of travel photography by capturing sharp images in any light. What often gets left behind is the ability to share those images as something tangible right away, something you can hand to a new friend at a market or slip into a journal before the day ends. The Canon Ivy 2, priced at $99 (was $120), fills that gap without forcing anyone to carry a separate instant camera or deal with film.
The device is so small that it could easily fit into a jacket pocket or the side pocket of a day bag. Its dimensions, barely more than 4.7 x 3.3 x 0.8 inches, and weight of 5 ounces ensure that it never feels like a burden when packing for a long trip or trudging through a crowded train. The device’s controls are straightforward: just a power button and a pair of LED status indicators, and you won’t be bogged down by complicated menus because everything is handled through your phone.
Connecting the printer is as easy as possible. Simply download the free Canon Mini Print app, activate Bluetooth, and you’ll be ready to go in seconds due to long-range Bluetooth 5.0 technology. Once it’s up and running, simply select a photo from your camera roll, add some creative touches (frames, filters, text, or collage patterns are all available in the app), and then press print to let the Ivy 2 do its magic.
The printer’s ZINK technology removes all of the common ink-related issues. Instead of color ink, the paper contains color crystals that come to life when heated by the printer to create the image, eliminating the need for filthy cartridges, the risk of liquid leaking in your backpack, and the turmoil that occurs when the print appears. In less than a minute (around 30-50 seconds), your finished photo will measure 2 by 3 inches and have a tidy borderless edge.
Each print has a simple peel-and-stick layer on the back. Simply remove the liner, and your photograph will attach to almost any smooth surface. Travelers use them to write a few pages in their diary, label their bags, paint their water bottles, or turn their phone case into an impromptu gallery of their trip’s highlights. If you need to attach it to anything more curved, like a helmet or a bottle, pre-cut circular sticker sheets are also available.
The good news is that these prints are fairly resistant to smudges, moisture, and tears, so even if you end up stuffing them in your pocket or passing them around at dinner, they’ll still look great. A full charge will last about 20 prints, which should be plenty for most people to go through a day of active photography. If you need to recharge, a simple charge from a power bank or hotel outlet will get you back up and running in about 45 minutes. Meanwhile, the paper capacity is up to 10 sheets at a time, and a calibration sheet is included to ensure that the printer is operating correctly.
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