When Totokaelo, a speciality multi-brand retailer with stores in New York and Seattle, closed in July 2020, as the world was starting to come to terms with the pandemic and months after the closures of fashion-forward stores like Barneys and Opening Ceremony, it confirmed the long-simmering consensus of the fashion cognoscenti that there was nowhere left to shop in New York.

Men were particularly affected, as streetwear took over fashion and the only remaining stores were those that catered to sneakerheads, such as Kith, and luxury monobrand boutiques.

But in recent years, New York’s menswear retail scene has been undergoing a quiet renaissance, driven by a slew of independent stores run by passionate entrepreneurs who hope that their enthusiasm will prove contagious. Many have taken a tight curatorial approach, a model that had been lost in the era of ecommerce giants’ and department stores’ growth-at-all-cost approach and bland merchandising — a move that has since proved fatal for some retailers.

As men increasingly turn away from the lowest common denominator stuff like logoed T-shirts and hoodies, they are embracing what in the menswear industry parlance is called “product” — well-made clothes with minute attention to detail, fabric and construction.

“Men don’t shop the way women do; they are not trend-oriented but product-oriented,” says Christopher Green, a veteran retail consultant who previously worked for Totokaelo. His store, Ven.Space, is a testament to that view. Located in the Carroll Gardens neighbourhood of Brooklyn, it mixes 40 brands, ranging from high-end labels such as The Row, Jil Sander, and Dries Van Noten to more accessible brands like Margaret Howell and Studio Nicholson. The shop is also replete with offerings from Japan; it sells labels such as Auralee, A. Presse and Graphpaper. Prices range from low hundreds into the thousands. What unites the seemingly eclectic selection is Green’s love of product. Each hanger has a cloth cover that hides the brand label. “I want the customer to feel the fabric first, then look at the garment, and then go to brand, and only then to price,” he says.

His enthusiasm is contagious; there was a line to get into the store the day it opened in September. Green, who lives near his store, and also views it as an extension of his living room and his closet, adds that Ven.Space has surpassed its first month’s sales goals. The goal is profitability within two and a half years — and Green is not considering ecommerce at all, preferring to concentrate on the physical experience.

Embracing a similar attitude is Cueva, which initially launched online in 2020, and opened its first physical store in a semi-basement space in Manhattan’s West Village a year later. Besides requisite anchor brands like Our Legacy, it carries Harris Wharf London, an underrated outerwear specialist, and Italian classic-with-a-twist labels like Doppiaa and Barena.

Justin Felizzari, Cueva’s founder and sole proprietor, grew up in retail, having helped with his parents’ football store on Long Island, but his love of menswear inevitably drew him to his own enterprise. “I had an idea to curate a mix of brands that weren’t necessarily in the same realm; my obsession with menswear has always been eclectic.” Felizzari says the business has been profitable since the beginning, and that careful management has allowed it to grow fairly quickly. After noticing that a significant part of his clientele hailed from Brooklyn, in September he opened a second, bigger outpost of Cueva in Greenpoint, where he also lives. “It’s very clear that the Brooklyn consumer appreciates quality product,” he says. Ninety per cent of Cueva’s sales now come from physical retail.

Techwear has been another area of interest among menswear enthusiasts, and it is the focus at Antithesis, a nondescript shop that opened in November 2020 on the border of Manhattan’s Lower East Side and NoLiTa. The store, run by Matt Breen, is one of the largest American stockists for the cult Berlin label Acronym, whose drops elicit the kind of rabid enthusiasm we have come to associate with the Swifties. Everything Breen carries, including hard-to-find brands like Cav Empt and Mountain Research, is a reflection of the taste, deep knowledge and network he has developed during his decades of working in the industry as a wholesale distributor.

Backed by retail-sector investors, Antithesis turned a profit last year. The in-store business is much bigger than online. “Our brands are on the smaller side in terms of distribution and rather niche, and if you are not a consistent customer, one would need to come see them in person for material feel, fit and quality; in fact we strongly encourage it,” says Breen.

Not to be overlooked is & Son, opened by Benjamin Stricof in November 2023, in a semi-basement space (this seems to be a prerequisite for men’s speciality retail in New York) on a less-trodden block of Sullivan Street in SoHo, after leaving an unrewarding job in the entertainment industry during the pandemic. The store offers labels such as Uru and Rice Nine Ten (they come from Japan) that Stricof says are not available anywhere else in New York. Like other shop owners, he is a product enthusiast. “I care a lot about singularity and identity when it comes to a brand,” says Stricof, “Most of these designers don’t have the capacity or interest in being at major retailers, and it’s given way to shops like mine being able to exist [which] was lacking before [the pandemic].”

Even though each shop offers a distinctive point of view, what unites them is the belief that nothing can substitute the human interaction and infectious enthusiasm of those who know the clothes they sell in and out. That’s crucial in the menswear market long dominated by the same stuff, where the only differentiator is the logo. It has also made New York City an exciting place to shop once again.

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JUST because the weather has turned, doesn’t mean you can’t visit the UK coastline.

The Sun Travel team have revealed their favourite seaside destinations across the country that are still great to visit in the winter.

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Seahouses, Northumberland

The historic fishing village of Seahouses on the Northumberland coast is the ultimate cosy bolthole in the depths of winter.

While the summer crowds may have moved on, a blustery walk across the beaches to the north and south are the perfect way to blow away the cob webs and offer a tantilising view of Bamburgh Castle.

And of course, those dark nights are even more welcome when the clearest skies of the year create the perfect conditions for a spot of stargazing.

When the weather turns, hunker down in the sea-facing bar at the Bamburgh Castle Inn overlooking the harbour.

And to sample some of the fare delivered daily by the local boats, head to Swallow Fish, who have been selling their wares in the town since 1843.

– Lisa Minot, Head of Travel

6

Rye, East Sussex

While not strictly seaside, the medieval town of Rye in East Sussex is
extremely near the coast – it has a harbour and you can see the sea.

But I figured it deserved a mention because it’s by far my favourite
coastal town to visit in winter.

The cobbled streets, quaint antique shops and cosy pubs make it the
perfect way to spend a chilly weekend.

Make sure to pay a visit to The Mermaid Inn, a 600 year old pub with
cellars that date back to 1156.

In the Giant’s Fireplace Bar, with its dried hops and huge inglenook,
you can just imagine what it was like back in the days when smuggling gangs used it as a meeting place.

Equally great is the Globe Inn, a white clapboard pub that serves up
freshly caught fish and seafood, alongside local ales.

Or if you have more of a sweet tooth, head to Knoops – founded by a
‘chocolate sommelier’, the store sells loads of different hot
chocolates at various percentages of cocoa.

From Rye, it’s just a few miles on foot to the glorious Camber Sands,
with it’s long sandy beach and dunes.

– Caroline McGuire, Head of Travel

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Advertisement

Whitstable, Kent

It can be tricky trying to find places open in seaside towns when the summer ends, with some closing for the season.

But the beauty of Whitstable is it has all you might need to shelter from the winds.

My favourite is the The Old Neptune pub – it’s right on the seafront so you can see the beach and crashing waves while staying warm in front of the fire.

The high street is also full of shops where you can escape the winds, with charity shops offering bargain clothes to cosy coffee shops – my favourite is Blueprint Coffee & Books.

Sure, you might not be wanting to grab some oysters and take a seat on the shingles – but at least you’ll be able to enjoy the usually busy town, crowd-free.

– Kara Godfrey, Deputy Travel Editor

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Trebarwith, Cornwall

Cornwall is flooded with tourists in summer. Visiting in August? Well, forget about finding decent digs or bagging a table at one of the favourite restaurants if you haven’t booked months in advance.
But this all changes after September.

The crowds disperse and much-loved beaches like Watergate Bay are pretty much deserted, meaning you can enjoy its seven miles of sand and craggy caves all to yourself.

Stay close to Trebarwith Strand, near Tintagel, which is breathtakingly beautiful with beachside sunsets that could rival those in the Caribbean.

After a blustery walk along the beach, cosy up in the Port William, a cliffside pub with snug sofas next to roaring fireplaces and huge windows overlooking the waves – it’s dog friendly and has bedrooms too.

This area is a wildlife lovers haven, with hundreds of species of birds to spot in the winter months.

– Sophie Swietochowski, Assistant Travel Editor

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Barry Island, Wales

Years ago, I was lucky enough to live in Cardiff, which meant I spent weekends exploring everything the Welsh capital had to offer, including the neighbouring coastal towns.

One place that I always recommend visiting is Barry Island – a seaside resort made famous by the TV sitcom Gavin and Stacey. 

And with a new Christmas special set to air later this year, the next few months are an ideal time to visit to explore some of the instantly recognisable filming locations from the show. 

Even in the winter, day-trippers should make a beeline for Whitmore Bay — a huge crescent of golden sand that’s backed by a promenade of busy cafés, and fish and chip shops. On a colder day, I like to grab myself a hot chocolate from one of the many coffee shops that line the beach. 

Get your pulse racing at the Barry Island Pleasure Park, it has a rollercoaster, log flume, dodgems and a waltzer. It even comes into its own in the winter thanks to Winter Wonderland, with this year’s attractions set to be announced soon. 

And a trip to Barry Island isn’t complete with a trip to Nessa’s slots where you’ll be sure to have a tidy afternoon spending your pennies.

– Hope Brotherton, Travel Reporter

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Good morning. Last night EU leaders wrapped up a migration-dominated summit with a joint statement that shifted the bloc’s position firmly to the right. They called for “new ways” to crack down on irregular border crossings, fresh legislation to speed up deportations, and effectively gave a green light to Poland’s recent announcement that it plans to suspend asylum claims on its eastern border.

Today, I have an exclusive interview with Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy, where he explains why it’s crucial that western allies endorse all the elements of his Victory Plan. And our excellent eastern Europe correspondent reports from Moldova ahead of the country’s double-vote this weekend that will decide its geopolitical future.

Have a fantastic weekend.

Volodymyr’s pitch

Volodymyr Zelenskyy outlined his five-point Victory Plan to EU leaders in Brussels yesterday, seeking their support for what proposals he says can end the war with Russia. He told me that it was the only way to protect Ukraine, end the war — and ensure the future protection of Europe.

Context: Russia launched a full-scale invasion of Ukraine in February 2022, seeking to conquer the country. That initial effort failed, but President Vladimir Putin’s troops still occupy around a fifth of the country’s territory.

Zelenskyy’s key message was that an invitation to join Nato — the first of his plan’s five elements — was “the only way” Ukraine could survive.

But he also said that more advanced weaponry — the second point — was critical for Ukraine to survive another winter of Russian bombardment.

“These two things go together,” he told the Financial Times. “The answer is lying on the table. They attack us with long-distance weapons . . . Mostly [energy] blackouts are due to long-distance missiles, ballistics and Iranian drones.”

“We cannot destroy their air fields with only [our] drones. To stop them . . . we need huge long-distance weapons,” he added.

The US and Germany oppose both a formal Nato invitation and the use of their long-range missiles to hit targets deep inside Russian territory, such as bomber bases.

“We must continue on the pro-Ukrainian path, more sanctions, implementation effectively and more military and humanitarian assistance,” Roberta Metsola, the president of the European parliament, told the FT, alongside Zelenskyy.

“We are approaching 1,000 days of war. 1,000 days mean a fourth winter. It will be a difficult winter,” said Metsola, adding that on November 21, the biggest parties in the chamber will “recommit themselves” to support for Ukraine.

Zelenskyy also stressed that the fifth point of his plan, deploying battle-hardened Ukrainian troops in other European Nato states to help defend them, would be crucial for the continent’s long-term security as the US pivots towards Asia and redeploys troops stationed in Europe.

“This is very important. [My troops] are not afraid of Russians,” he said. “If Nato countries are ready . . . our soldiers can be [ready].”

Chart du jour: Germany for sale

“Deutschland im Ausverkauf” is the phrase used by some observers to describe the fact that German companies have become relatively small and relatively cheap, writes Lex.

Decision time

Moldovans will head to the polls on Sunday to take part in two votes at once that mark a historic juncture for the 2.5mn strong nation, but have also left it fending off an unprecedented onslaught of illegal Russian cash, writes Polina Ivanova.

Context: The country is holding a referendum on committing to join the EU after starting membership talks earlier this year. It is also holding a presidential election, in which pro-western incumbent Maia Sandu is hoping to secure a second term.

It marks a momentous choice for Moldova, analysts say, between a European path or a potential return for the ex-Soviet nation to the Russian fold. While polls are showing a majority of Moldovans favour EU accession, local authorities say Russia is proving unwilling to let it go without a fight.

Police have intercepted schemes funnelling money from Russia directly into the bank accounts of over 130,000 Moldovans and describe battling a hydra-like network of proxies inside the country, largely co-ordinated, they say, by fugitive oligarch Ilan Șor, who now resides in Moscow.

“The Kremlin has unimaginable resources to buy votes, while people are poor and vulnerable . . . I hope we don’t get left behind on the other side of a new iron curtain,” says Mihai Duca, the manager of a 100-year-old distillery in the village of Bardar. “It’s our only chance to develop this country.”

The EU has extended a package of €1.8bn to support Moldova’s growth as it works to join the bloc. Eight EU foreign ministers were in Chișinău, the capital, this week.

What to watch today

1. French President Emmanuel Macron, British Prime Minister Keir Starmer and US President Joe Biden hold talks with German Chancellor Olaf Scholz in Berlin.

2. Italian Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni visits Jordan and Lebanon.

Now read these

• Return of the bank merger: Rising rates have boosted profits and policymakers want banks that can compete with US rivals. M&A is back.

• Beyond ‘Mamma Fiat’: Italy’s cradle of carmaking is looking beyond the storied brand after a painful EV transition and an acrimonious spat with Rome.

• Postcard from Greece: FT Weekend tracks down architect Nicos Valsamakis, the 100-year-old guru behind some iconic totems of Greek modernism.

CADBURY has shrunk the size of a popular Christmas chocolate and shoppers will be disappointed.

The iconic treat manufacturer has reduced the size of its Buttons selection box from 375g to 340g.

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When launched last year the pack contained Caramilk Buttons, Orange Giant Buttons and Salted Caramel Button.

This year it has been tweaked to include, Caramel Nibbles and White chocolate buttons, alongside the classic Milk Chocolate Buttons.

At the time, shoppers went crazy for the box, with one commenting in a social media post that they “needed this in their life”.

Representatives from Mondelēz International, the parent company of Cadbury, have confirmed to The Sun that the product has been reduced in size.

A spokesperson blamed higher cocoa and sugar costs for the reduction in the amount of chocolate in each box.

They said: “This means that our products continue to be much more expensive to make and while we have absorbed these costs where possible, we still face considerable challenges.

“We understand the economic pressures that consumers continue to face and any changes to our product sizes is a last resort for our business. “

While the amount of chocolate shoppers receive has reduced the price remains about the same.

Asda is still charging £5 for the selection box, the same price it set last year.

Meanwhile, Tesco is charging £6 for the 340g box or £5 if you buy it using your Clubcard.

The UK’s biggest supermarket charged Clubcard shoppers £4.50 for the selection box last year.

This is not the only case shoppers have witnessed of chocolates shrinking in size.

The Sun revealed this week that the Cadbury selection box now weighs just 125g, down by 14 per cent from 145g last year.

It is more than a quarter smaller than the box was in 2018 when it was 169g.

However, the price has also increased. 

In 2021 – when it was bigger – it was available in supermarkets for between £1.25 and £2. 

This year, it costs between £1.75 and £2.75 at the UK’s four main supermarket chains.

It also includes small versions of Fudge, Wispa and Crunchie, a treat-size pack of mini-buttons and small Dairy Milk bar and the caramel Freddo, axing the Double Decker bar.

When approached by The Sun, the chocolate giant also cited supply chain issues as the cause.

What is shrinkflation?

Shrinkflation is causing massive problems for shoppers across the world.

It is when manufacturers shrink the size or quantity of a product while keeping the price the same.

This means that consumers will be paying more per given amount.

Rising the price per gram is a well-oiled strategy used by companies to stealthily boost profit margins or to cement them in times of rising input costs.

Companies will often engage in shrinkflation when their production costs begin to rise.

A heavy hit to profit margins may force the company to simply shrink its products rather than increase the sticker price.

One of the best ways to notice shrinkflation is by spotting a redesign on the packaging or a new slogan.

This may mean the company has made a change and that change may just be the size of the product.

It is mainly seen in the food and beverage industries but can also happen in almost all markets.

It is a form of hidden inflation as shrinkflation often goes unnoticed by customers.

Companies run the risk of turning customers away from a product or brand if they notice they are getting less for the same price.

In recent weeks, pet owners were enraged after multipack Purina Felix Original cat food shrunk by 15 per cent.

How to save money on chocolate

We all love a bit of chocolate from now and then, but you don’t have to break the bank buying your favourite bar.

Consumer reporter Sam Walker reveals how to cut costs…

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Go own brand – if you’re not too fussed about flavour and just want to supplant your chocolate cravings, you’ll save by going for the supermarket’s own brand bars.

Shop around – if you’ve spotted your favourite variety at the supermarket, make sure you check if it’s cheaper elsewhere.

Websites like Trolley.co.uk let you compare prices on products across all the major chains to see if you’re getting the best deal.

Look out for yellow stickers – supermarket staff put yellow, and sometimes orange and red, stickers on to products to show they’ve been reduced.

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They usually do this if the product is coming to the end of its best-before date or the packaging is slightly damaged.

Buy bigger bars – most of the time, but not always, chocolate is cheaper per 100g the larger the bar.

So if you’ve got the appetite, and you were going to buy a hefty amount of chocolate anyway, you might as well go bigger.