The Fox and Pheasant in Fulham, south west London, charges premium prices – we paid £106 for one starter, two mains and five pints at the celebrity-run gastropub
James Blunt saved the pub in 2018(Image: Fulham Chronicle)
“They named a ski ride after me in Verbier and turned a phone box into a museum for me in Herefordshire. Your turn.”
That was James Blunt’s retort to one of the countless disparaging tweets and posts aimed at the 51-year-old every week, this particular one questioning ‘what have you ever achieved?’
Since infiltrating the consciousness of virtually every Briton with 2005’s hit ‘You’re Beautiful’, the self-described ‘one hit wonder’ has built a thriving reputation for self-deprecation. And, as I learnt earlier this month, he’s also ventured into the pub trade.
Mr Blunt joins a roster of well-known figures who’ve expanded beyond their primary profession to enter the pub industry (my colleague Steffan Rhys recently enjoyed a splendid afternoon at the watering hole of one of Wales’ rugby icons). On the face of it, investing in pubs seems an unlikely choice.
Indeed, it’s an extremely challenging period for those running them. The British Beer and Pub Association calculates that 378 establishments shut their doors in 2025, potentially affecting 5,600 livelihoods. Before Rachel Reeves reversed her decision on slashing business rate relief for pubs, many establishments were staring down a 76% increase over the coming three years.
Her reversal has been warmly received by landlords, though the scope of the tax concession remains unclear. As does the outlook for an industry battered by numerous pressures, including falling alcohol consumption.
Whilst I cannot claim insight into the Fox and Pheasant’s financial records, I’m reasonably certain this establishment is thriving. During a particularly dreary January weekend, right in the heart of dry January, the Fulham venue was packed.
I’d managed to secure the weekend’s final available table on Thursday, with the binding agreement to order at least two main courses and forfeit £20 should I fail to appear. The table itself was positioned in the room’s corner beside the service station, offering far superior views of fellow patrons and proximity to the condiments than it did legroom. By my rough calculation, the Fox and Pheasant accommodates 40 diners.
If each spent as much as we did, then it represents a solid investment from Mr Blunt. My companion and I parted with £106 for one starter, two mains, and five pints. Perhaps this ought to be anticipated when eating in one of Britain’s priciest postcodes. As a visitor to these exclusive parts, the sting of the bill proved difficult to shake off.
“I think £40 less than that feels about fair,” my friend concluded, having spent years working in upmarket restaurants throughout central London.
That said, the Fox and Pheasant remains an excellent pub. That’s beyond question.
The design is particularly clever. Entering from the gated, private road that Mr Blunt has inhabited for more than 15 years, visitors are greeted by an elegantly styled frontage featuring carefully restored signage, hanging flower baskets, and verdant wall tiles.
The front portion features a double-sided bar and a drinking space, creating a warm, inviting atmosphere perfect for escaping the winter chill, especially if you manage to secure a spot beside the crackling fire.
Most of the restaurant seating is cleverly positioned in a spacious rear room – a shrewd decision that maintains the traditional pub character at the front. The dining space is bright and attractive, topped with a glass conservatory-style roof and adorned with climbing plants along the walls.
Mindful of costs, we opted to share a starter of celeriac tartare accompanied by tomato relish, hazelnut cream, and horseradish. “Is it just me or does this taste like they’ve dunked celeriac bits in a tin of baked beans?” remarked my companion, a self-confessed baked bean connoisseur.
The mains proved far more impressive. I chose a Roquefort and walnut salad with chips, whilst my friend selected a chicken, chorizo, and mushroom pie served with creamed leeks and an immaculate Mr Whippy-style swirl of mashed potato on the side.
Ordering a pie at a pub can be a risky business, as many of us have discovered. Too often, I’ve been left disappointed when the crust turns out to be just a lid.
While I understand the pressures on landlords, skimping on pastry isn’t going to make or break the bank. The team at Mr Blunt’s establishment didn’t fall into this trap, but the shallowness of the pie was quite startling – it barely reached 6cm at its highest point.
That said, the flavours were delightful, the service was swift, and the atmosphere in the restaurant was pleasant. There’s something rather appealing about dining among towering finance professionals and elegantly attired women.
However, while such a stature might require protein-rich meals, the limited vegetarian options beyond salads were somewhat disappointing.
The absence of the pub’s famous owner was also a letdown. Rumour has it that Mr Blunt frequents the Fox and Pheasant, and by all accounts, he’s done a commendable job since rescuing it from conversion into flats in 2018. The only nod to the multi-million album-selling singer was found in the cocktail menu. Had my Reach PLC expense allowance not already been depleted, I would’ve sampled the ‘You’re Beautiful’ to see if it’s as big a hit.
The Fox and Pheasant is nice but, all things considered, my verdict is simple: too expensive.
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