REVEALED: Breitling chooses Dubai to unveil multi-brand strategy ‘It’s not just about selling products’, says global head

Breitling CEO Georges Kern introduced a new portfolio strategy at Dubai Watch Week on November 19, uniting Breitling, Universal Genève, and Gallet under what the company calls its “House of Brands” initiative.

The announcement comes as Breitling positions itself across multiple price tiers following its acquisition of Universal Genève for approximately 60 million Swiss francs ($69 million) from Hong Kong-based Stelux Group in late 2023, and its subsequent acquisition of Gallet earlier this year.

“The whole concept basically recalls the idea of having a complementary galaxy of legacy brands that can work together in different price points,” Gianfranco Gentile, Breitling’s Global Head of Heritage, told Arabian Business in an exclusive interview at the brand’s nearly 400-square-meter pavilion at Dubai Watch Week.

All three brands carry century-old legacies. Gallet traces its roots to 1826, while Universal Genève and Breitling were both founded in 1894 and 1884 respectively. Each has contributed landmark innovations to horological history, from Breitling’s 1962 Cosmonaute being the first wristwatch in space and Universal Genève’s Polerouter being one of Gérald Genta’s first designs.

Universal Genève will operate as a distinct maison in the ultra-luxury segment at price points above Breitling while Gallet will target entry-level luxury with both brands scheduled to launch in 2026.

The positioning reflects what the brand describes as evolving collector behavior and addresses how contemporary collectors move fluidly between categories and value heritage, design and storytelling.

Gentile emphasised the importance of cultural relevance over mere product launches. “It’s not just about selling the new products,” he explained, referring to the pavilion’s “Time Tunnel” concept, which showcases heritage through graphic panels featuring historical advertisements and milestone timepieces.

For Universal Genève, the brand was long known as the couturier of watchmaking, renowned for its in-house movements. Gentile explained that the brand’s aesthetic codes drew heavily from haute couture, describing how the pavilion recreated an atelier atmosphere with leather, silk, and mood boards reminiscent of 1960s fashion houses.

The Universal Genève display features vintage pieces including the Compax chronographs and the three-handed Polerouter that was among the first watches designed for civil aviation to fly over the North Pole with SAS.

Breitling’s 1957 brand definition of air, land and sea universes remains central to its identity, though the House of Brands concept allows for differentiation. Gallet will emphasise adventure and functionality, drawing on its history of supplying chronographs to aviators and mountaineers.

“Gallet clearly has a very distinctive image. It’s not like a copy of Breitling as it happens with other assisted brands or famous brands,” Gentile said.

Under Kern’s guidance since 2017, Breitling has moved into the top ten Swiss watch brands by revenue, with sales approaching $1 billion in 2022, according to Morgan Stanley data.

The timing of the multi-brand launch comes as luxury watchmakers navigate shifting consumer preferences.

The choice of Dubai Watch Week for the announcement reflects the event’s growing significance. The platform has become influential in contemporary horology with brands investing heavily and announcing limited editions or significant developments.

“It was the most significant of the announcements because it basically marks the transition from single brand to a house of brands,” Gentile said.

The pavilion’s structure illustrated the strategy: Universal Genève occupies a refined space evoking 1960s haute couture, while Gallet’s area emphasised adventure and exploration. Breitling maintained its contemporary luxury positioning at the center.

With both acquisitions set to relaunch in 2026, Breitling aims to successfully manage multiple heritage brands while maintaining their distinct identities.