It’s known the world over for one particular thing but that is very far from the only attraction
One of Wales’ prettiest market towns is world-renowned as a literary hub but there’s so much more to this charming bookish town. Hay-on-Wye, Wales’ book capital, is home to loads of secondhand and antiquarian bookshops where you can browse a vast range of literature.
On the Welsh side of the border in Powys it sits below the Black Mountains and the sweeping landscapes of Bannau Brycheiniog. Here you can browse bookshops in the morning, stomp off into the hills by lunchtime, and be back in town in time to shop for vinyl and have a cheeky pint. Lush.
Famed for its literature festival Hay has been a popular tourist hotspot and it’s easy to see why. The town has a wide variety of secondhand and antiquarian bookshops as well as castles and old cinemas showing classics. It’s one of my favourite places to visit to pick up books, shop for gifts, and sip artisan coffee in cosy cafes.
The annual arts and literature Hay Festival has made the town a magnet for writers, thinkers, and celebrities, attracting 100,000-plus visitors every year. Taking place over 11 days each spring writers, musicians, comedians, poets, and activists come together to host a series of lively sessions for audiences.
High-profile visitors to Hay have included former US president Bill Clinton who called it the “Woodstock of the mind”. In 2001, less than five months after stepping down as president of the USA, Clinton attended the Hay Festival to deliver a UN lecture on racism and conflict.
This was not Clinton’s first visit to Wales though. In 1969, as an Oxford student, he came to find Dylan Thomas’s birthplace.
He and a classmate got as far as Cardiff Central bus station. “I remember it took forever to get there,” the former president said. “We got out at the bus station in Cardiff; we stopped at a little pub, there was a Jerry Lewis film on the television – I remember that. We drank a lot of beer and read these poems to each other and I thought they were fabulous.”
More than two decades later former US secretary of state, first lady, and US senator Hillary Rodham Clinton attended the Hay Festival in 2022 in conversation with lawyer Helena Kennedy.
Other celebs who have attended or hosted sessions include Michael Sheen, Stephen Fry, and Luke Evans, musicians Stormzy and Sir Tom Jones, and Hollywood stars like Goldie Hawn, Jane Fonda, and Carrie Fisher. Last year’s line-up included Geri Halliwell-Horner, Bonnie Tyler, Gary Lineker, and Theresa May.
The wildly popular festival has firmly established Hay-on-Wye as a cultural hub where literature, music, and ideas come together making it a must-visit event in Wales.
Hay has also been compared many times to the fictional town of Stars Hollow from the TV smash hit Gilmore Girls, which celebrates its 25th anniversary this year. The comedy-drama show currently airs in the UK on Netflix and ITVX.
If you want to live your best Stars Hollow life (yes, I’m a huge Gilmore Girls fan) Hay has it all. Dazzling foliage in autumn, bookshops that Rory might wander into, independent cafes serving coffee as good as Luke’s, and even local drama that’s town-meeting worthy.
Here bookshops are found in castles, old cinemas, and idyllic spots throughout the town, making it a paradise for wannabe Rorys. Amid the literary exploration there are cafes, pubs and a sweet shop, which all look rather lovely in the #fall season.
The market town has a long history beginning as a settlement known roughly between 1135 and 1147 as Haya and then expanding after the second Norman conquest of Wales.
A motte-and-bailey castle was built near St Mary’s around 1121. It is thought to have been built by William Revel. The castle remains are known as Hay Tump.
The church of St Mary’s was built around 1135 and became the principal church and parish for the area. Hay was also fortified with walls and defended by Hay Castle, which is thought to have been built from the late 12th century onwards.
Through Richard Booth’s vision Hay-on-Wye became the “world’s first book town.” In 1962 Booth opened the first secondhand bookshop in the old fire station, attracting other booksellers and forever changing Hay.
According to Library Wales Booth was well known for his eccentricities, as evidenced by his famously declaring independence for the town and making himself its king.
It’s now a thriving literary hub with its annual festival featuring a diverse programme of talks, music, and comedy as well as lectures by the world’s great writers, comedians, poets, and musicians. The next festival runs from May 21-31.
While the festival is a must-do event for book lovers autumn is really the best time to visit Hay for seasonal dishes, long walks, and hot chocolates in cosy cafes.
There’s more here than just books though. Hay-on-Wye is packed with charming independent shops. There’s The Hourglass Collection, a fab little shop all about fossils, and a proper vintage furniture store that’ll have you rummaging through treasures.
You’ll also find galleries, music shops (including the brilliant Tom’s Records Shop for all the vinyl lovers), and several swish clothing shops. If you want some ethical splurges pop into Number Two – they’ve got a cracking selection of eco-friendly homewares.
Make sure you swing by The Fudge Shop for sweet treats. This place has been making fresh fudge for more than 20 years and offers seasonal favourites like festive fudge and Easter fudge as well as new flavours like salted caramel and Biscoff. There’s even a cutesy lollipop tree inside that the kids will love.
For local and organic produce Hay Deli is brimming with high-quality Welsh and Herefordshire produce including Alex Gooch bread and Welsh Barti Ddu rum.
Trading for more than 700 years Hay Market Day is a buzzing local market held in the centre of Hay-on-Wye every Thursday. Many stalls sell local produce, hot food, artisan crafts, and vintage treats and gifts.
You can also visit the castle and browse works at art galleries including The Lion Street Gallery and The Haymakers Gallery.
Bookshop-wise you’re spoiled for choice with a decent range of indies scattered around town. Green Ink Booksellers is Hay’s newest secondhand bookshop and has a curated range of books across topics.
Francis Edwards has specialised in antique and rare books since 1855 and has thousands of retro books to browse. Mostly Maps is where you’ll find a variety of antique maps including folding maps and Ordnance Survey maps.
For true crime girlies Murder and Mayhem is a uniquely-decorated shop honouring the golden age of crime and horror. It’s a must-visit spot for detective fiction, true crime, and scary reads.
Hay Cinema Bookshop is a converted cinema that now houses more than 200,000 secondhand and antiquarian books on all subjects.
The real showstopper in the town, though, has to be Hay’s very own Black, White & Red bookstore – which doubles as a cinema in the series – Richard Booth’s Bookshop.
This landmark three-storey haven for both new and secondhand books is hard to miss with its striking tiled building, cafe, and even its own cwtchy cinema with just 48 seats.
It’s the largest bookshop in Hay and you could easily lose hours wandering through the heaving shelves.
The cinema’s line-up is also pretty eclectic – it includes everything from the latest blockbusters to classic gems, kids’ films, and the best of world cinema. There’s even a mezzanine for snacks serving soft drinks, popcorn, wines, and sweets. Lush.
The food and drink scene in Hay is also everything you’d hope for from a Welsh market town – a lush mix of country charm with a few modern twists.
If you need a pick-me-up The Sandwich Cellar is a local favourite. It’s got rave reviews on Tripadvisor and caters to all sorts of dietary needs with veggie, vegan, and gluten-free options as well as “outstanding coffee,” according to visitors.
Want something more traditional? Head to The Granary. This family-run restaurant and bar is renowned for its tasty cooking and laid-back vibes.
For a more intimate dining experience don’t miss Chapters, a Michelin-loved restaurant and bottle shop right in the heart of town. They serve a brilliant seasonal menu, which is especially great if you’re visiting in December for a little festive cheer.
When evening rolls around you’ve got plenty of cosy pubs for a pint such as the Three Tuns. It’s the oldest surviving house in Hay and its Grade II listing gives it an authentic feel. With a massive inglenook fireplace and original period features it’s the perfect place to soak up the village atmosphere over a drink. From superstar gigs to cosy pubs, find out What’s On in Wales by signing up to our newsletter here.
Shepherd’s is a must-visit for ice cream. Their locally-made gelato is made with sheep’s milk and comes in a range of flavours including the mind-blowing Lebanese coffee.
Visit the Old Electric Shop for tasty vegan food and great coffee. It’s a lovely mix of rustic homeware and vintage finds – perfect for perusing while you sip your drink.
If you’re looking for scenic walks there are plenty nearby making Hay a brilliant base for hikers. The old railway line follows the wooded banks of the River Wye to an expansive riverside meadow known as The Warren.
On your way you will be rewarded with changing views of trees and the river as the path passes through woodland and then along the riverbank.
Offa’s Dyke Path National Trail can also be accessed from Hay. This 177-mile path follows the border between England and Wales and is loved by hikers. Bannau Brycheiniog is also close by and has a multitude of hiking trails, waterfalls, and mountains to explore.
Want to make a weekend of it? The Swan at Hay is a great option, positioned between the Bannau Brycheiniog and the Black Mountains. This listed Georgian building was a former coaching inn and has 19 individually-designed bedrooms and a restaurant serving classic British cuisine.
Just a few minutes’ walk from the centre of Hay-on-Wye The Old Black Lion has a traditional wooden-beamed bar that feels instantly cosy. Oliver Cromwell is also rumoured to have stayed here in the 17th century.
The pub was voted The Best Pub in Powys and made the top eight for Wales in the 2023 National Pub & Bar Awards. Their two-AA-rosette restaurant also won the Good Food Award Gold Seal for 2024 and offers plenty of tasty dishes.
You can also order a freshly-cooked breakfast with locally-sourced produce on arrival or in advance for just £10 per person.
You can also search for self-catering stays near Hay on holidaycottages.co.uk and Sykes Cottages.
