The culinary legend has just one restaurant in the capital and it’s based in Barnes, so I thought I’d try out the festive set menu to see if it’s worth the hype
Rick Stein, one of Britain’s most celebrated chefs, may not have the same London presence as fellow culinary stars like Gordon Ramsay. But he does boast a single, highly-regarded restaurant on the banks of the River Thames in Barnes.
With the festive season upon us, I decided to sample their Christmas set menu and see if this Padstow legend’s cuisine lives up to its reputation.
As per my usual review format, I assessed the main course, dessert, and accompanying wine (or non-alcoholic alternative for those driving).
Inside the restaurant
Upon entering the warmly lit restaurant, we were greeted by the soothing sounds of a pianist and led to our window-side table with a charming view over the Thames, where we watched rowers practising under the night sky.
Of all the restaurants I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing this year, this one undoubtedly offered the best view, even in the darkness. I can only imagine how sought-after these tables would be in the summer months.
The main
For my main, it seemed only fitting to opt for fish at a Rick Stein establishment. I chose the braised fillet of haddock with chestnut mushrooms and roasted chestnuts from the set menu.
The festive set menu is priced at £44 for two courses or £50 for three. Interestingly, my dining companion, who opted out of the Christmas menu, ended up with a smaller bill at the end of the evening.
The haddock, a typically unassuming fish, was served in abundance and elevated by the addition of mushrooms, chestnuts, and a complementary sauce. The well-seasoned dish was paired with a robust white burgundy that offered sweet undertones on the finish, creating a harmonious balance.
The dessert
Moving onto dessert, I chose the simply named Yule Log. This traditional Christmas treat is usually a Swiss roll cake filled with cream and fashioned into a log shape.
However, the version I received, while substantial, lacked cream. It wasn’t a major issue, but the dessert tasted rather heavy and resembled something you’d pick up from a supermarket rather than a carefully crafted pudding.
It wasn’t inedible, just unexpectedly underwhelming.
Thankfully, the strong, refreshing mint tea I ordered alongside the dessert helped to counteract some of the heaviness.
Verdict
In conclusion, Rick Stein’s sole London establishment is overall a commendable restaurant. The ambiance is cosy and inviting, and the crucial fish dishes certainly do justice to the name they bear.
The service on the night we visited was efficient and attentive, save for a minor dessert-related mix-up. Judging by the overall experience, it’s definitely worth a return visit and would make an excellent choice for a dinner date.
When it came to the actual grub, the fish dish was a hit, but the yule log didn’t quite light up my palate.
If I had to encapsulate the experience in three words, they would be: homely, relaxed, and premium.
Bill Breakdown
- 175ml Rick Stein White Burgundy: £15.70
- 2 Course Set Menu: £44.00
- SM: Braised fillet of haddock: £0.00
- SM: Yule log: £0.00
- Mint tea: £3.75
- 12.5% discretionary service: £7.94
- Total: £71.39
