Kirkby Lonsdale is perfect for a cosy Cumbrian winter break

It was December and we were in Kirkby Lonsdale, an unspoiled, elegant little burgh where the three counties of Cumbria, North Yorkshire, and Lancashire collide.

Here the celebrated pastures of Lune Valley give way to the heather and rough grazing of the Cowgill Fells; where the bedrock starts to poke through the thin soil and hawthorn hedges are replaced by lichen-encrusted dry-stone walls.

The town is often billed as a quieter base from which to explore the Lake District, the Yorkshire Dales, and the splendid Forest of Bowland, but we are not here to explore. We are here to relax.

With everything from laid-back cafés and stylish bars and bistros to AA-rosette awarded restaurants and cosy country pubs, I cannot think of another town with fewer than 2,000 souls with quite so many drinking and dining options walking distance apart.

Add these to the wealth of independent shops selling everything from excellent local produce (including the butcher who makes the UK’s best sausage), beautiful clothes, artisan chocolate, arts and crafts, books, gifts, and toys, it is the perfect place for ditching the well-ordered itinerary and just kicking back for a change.

Arriving by car, Kirkby’s charming but narrow streets could seem daunting, but there are ample car parks within a few minutes walk of the centre of town. Our hotel, The Sun Inn, provides permits for these, which we duly collected and displayed several hours ahead of check in.

Kirkby Lonsdale’s narrow and elegant street are ideal for a wander (Image: Cumbria Tourism)

Being a Thursday morning, the natural first stop was the town’s esteemed Charter Market, held outdoors once-a-week in the elegant Georgian market square.

In continuous existence since 1227, it is no tourist trap, but a place where judicious locals come to buy the best quality local produce available in the area, at a reasonable price.

The finest fish, locally sourced meat and game, artisan cheeses, fresh bread, cakes, pies, and vegetables are here in abundance, as well as one or two less-expected offerings.

Far from a tourist trap, Kirkby Lonsdale’s Charter Market were local go to buy the best quality local produce and ingredients (Image: Newsquest)

We chatted to one stall holder, Alberto Zambianchi, who explains how he imports and sells Italian wines made by a schoolfriend back in his home village of Broni, Lombardy.

Affordability and quality has ensured great popularity with Kirkby’s selective drinkers of which, we are told, there are more than a few.  

Keen to get under the skin of this fascinating and historic little town, we pre-booked a tour guide, Tess Pike, to show us around.

The Sun Inn back on to the historic St Mary’s churchyard (Image: Newsquest)

Tess’s company, Tours with Tess, can put together multi-week guiding packages across the whole of the North of England, but Kirkby is the place she hangs her hat.

Her unrushed unfolding of the town’s history and culture, stretching back to and beyond its monastic origins, was done with wit and infectious enthusiasm for the place she has chosen to call home. What’s more, her sharp insider’s knowledge of Kirkby’s current milieu left us feeling a bit like locals ourselves.

For lunch, we had planned to visit the Kirkby Lonsdale Brewery, as well known for its woodfire sourdough pizzas as for its excellent range of cask and craft ales. But having failed to check its service times, sadly we arrived too late.

The Kirkby Lonsdale Brewery tap, a haven for ale lovers and pizza afficionados (Image: Newsquest)

We were still warmly welcomed for a drink, sampling their Devil’s Bridge IPA and Ruskin’s Bitter, both excellent. Housed in a cavernous stone-built barn a two-minute walk from the centre of town, sparking festoon lighting and a mind-boggling array of decorative brick-a-brac makes this beer lovers’ paradise a striking blend of the old and the new.

Haunch of locally sourced venison with crisp, black pudding-layered Pommes Anna was an autumnal delight (Image: Newsquest)

The comfortable 17th century Sun Inn is the epitome of an historic northern market town hostelry. The owners of the AA five-star rated venue, Iain and Jenny Black, understand it is quality in just about everything which makes customers return time and time again. A small but lovely touch is the wall of wellies provided for guests who want to explore the nearby countryside but have come underprepared.

We were delighted with out room, overlooking Market Street, spacious enough to have a comfortable seating area. I say room – it was practically a suite, which makes all the difference when you’re away just to unwind. You may be looking to spend a reasonable amount of time in it.

Our room – practically a suite – at the eminently comfortable Sun Inn (Image: Newsquest)

From the Sun Inn, it is a short walk though the town to the banks of majestic River Lune, which for our visit, was in dramatic mood. It is then a pleasant 10-minutes amble downstream to the celebrated medieval Devil’s Bridge, an enduringly popular spot with riverside picknickers in summer, and well worth a visit.

After several aperitifs at the handsome Royal Hotel and the charming Snooty Fox, dinner back at the Sun was a treat by anyone’s standards. A far cry from pub grub, the torched mackerel dressed with lovage oil was a sophisticated standout, and a beautifully pink haunch of venison served with a black pudding-laced Pommes Anna was Cumbrian autumn on a plate.

A stroll around Kirkby Lonsdale is full of surprises, like this gem (Image: Newsquest)

Each dish comes with a wine recommendation, served by the glass, though for the connoisseurs out there, I should add the Sun’s complete wine list is stand-out and caters for all pockets – even very deep ones.

After sharing a fanciful banana parfait, we just had time to hook-up with Tess again, who had invited us to finish the night getting to know some of the locals in Plato’s Bar, just a few doors down.

Farfield Mill, in nearby Sedburgh, is the place to go for local high-quality arts and crafts (Image: Cumbria Tourism)

After a restful sleep and a breakfast of some of the best Cumberland sausages (surely from the exalted butcher a few doors down?) and bacon I have had for a very long time, we headed for Farfield Mill in nearby Sedbergh.

A former Victorian textile mill, it recently underwent a transformation into an award-winning cultural venue combining studios, gallery space, and retail opportunities for local craftsmen and artists. It is the perfect place to pick up hand-crafted items including beautiful ceramics, hand-woven textiles, clothing, jewellery, art, and much more. It’s café also serves delicious homemade light lunches and excellent cakes.

The mill is home to studios, galleries, and shops (Image: Cumbria Tourism)

Before heading for home, we called in at Sizergh Castle, a fascinating National Trust-managed estate occupied by the exalted Hornyold-Strickland family since 1239.

Set in more than 1,600 acres of unusual and lovely upland parkland close to junction 36 of the M6, its superb limestone rock garden which boasts internationally important collections of ferns, hellebores, and acers up to 100 years old, was for me, the jewel in its crown.

The stunning Rock Garden at Sizergh Castle hold world-class collections of acers, hellebores, and ferns (Image: Newsquest)

With Christmas behind us and the spring still some why off, if you are thinking of taking a relaxing winter break needing little planning as everything is right there on your doorstep, Kirkby Lonsdale could well be the place you’re looking for.

For more information about things to do in and around the town, visit www.kirkbylonsdale.co.uk.