Twice-baked sweet potato recipe

Twice-baked potatoes – made with regular rather than sweet potatoes – was the first thing I learnt to make in domestic science at school. Scrape the flesh out, mash it with other simple ingredients, then pile it back in and bake or grill until the top is golden. There is no end to what can go into a twice-baked potato – flaked smoked haddock, buttery leeks and cheddar, for example – and sweet potatoes provide a contrast you can work with, mixing the flesh with salty goat’s cheese and olives, or gorgonzola and toasted walnuts. A baked potato can be so much more.

This version is frugal, no odd ingredients that you won’t use in another dish. Mound the filling in each half, don’t be afraid to really load it up. In cold weather I’d have purple sprouting broccoli on the side.