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Israel, Lebanon and the mirage of a new Middle East

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A plume of smoke rises high into the air from a town where there are red roofed houses and a belltower

Throughout history, leaders have sought to reshape the Middle East. From the heights of my village on Mount Lebanon, I can contemplate the passage of successive empires: the beautiful remnants of a Roman temple, a Byzantine church or a (much less charming) French military bunker, there to remind me of the region’s magnetic pull and the fleeting nature of power. 

The area stretching from the Taurus Mountains to Arabia Deserta and from Shatt al-Arab to the Mediterranean is strategically located, symbolically intense, socially diverse and, therefore, politically unstable. Imposing some kind of order on its vulnerable states and uncertain, volatile identities has been a temptation for conquerors and politicians alike. Cyrus of Persia and Alexander of Macedonia tried; so, more recently, did George W Bush. 

As the 20th-century colonial empires receded and the era of independence bloomed, a largely arbitrary political map took shape, distributing among the new (non-nation) states mountains and plains, plateaus and deserts stretched around the Jordan, Orontes and Euphrates rivers. These modern creatures proved to be fragile, permanently threatened by ethnic strife and political mismanagement. 

A plume of smoke rises high into the air from a town where there are red roofed houses and a belltower
Smoke rises from the site of an Israeli air strike near the ruins of the Roman temple of Bacchus in Baalbek in Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley on October 6 © Getty Images

State-building is a desperately difficult endeavour in plural societies, never accomplished, always reversible and often viewed as a mere cover used by one group or another (Alawi, Tikriti, Maronite) to impose its will. It is rendered even more difficult when emerging regional hegemons keep attempting to transform these fragile units into obedient satellites. 

The Middle East has of late experienced many such episodes. Gamal Abdel Nasser’s Egypt used a fervent wave of Arab nationalism in the 1950s and 1960s to try to impose its primacy, only to be brutally contained in its ambition by Israel’s superior arms, conservative Arab regimes’ machinations and active western hostility. Khomeinist Iran, promoting Shia emancipation and political Islam, engaged in a similar project from the very first days of the revolution, leading among other effects to a horrible eight-year war with Iraq, and the sponsoring of non-state armed groups such as Lebanon’s Hizbollah, Iraq’s Hashd al-Shaabi and Palestine’s Hamas. Tehran tried to organise that network into an “Axis of Resistance”, which looked very much on the ascendant until recently. Not to be outdone, Turkey under Recep Tayyip Erdoğan has tried its hand at reasserting Ankara’s influence, through subtle means as well as less subtle ones, over an area that had lived under Ottoman rule for some four centuries. 

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Two soldiers in battle fatigues and helmets watch as troops advance up a sandy incline
Israeli troops on the outskirts of Rafah on the first day of the Six Day War in June 1967 © Polaris/eyevine
Two tanks drive through clouds of dust as they advance across sandy territory
Israeli tanks near the country’s southern border with the Gaza Strip this October © Getty Images

The latest to be tempted is Israel’s Benjamin Netanyahu. He talks about his ambition and demonstrates, one tactical victory after another, that he means what he says. Following the brutal Hamas eruption of October 7 2023, he transformed Gaza into a huge field of ruins, displacing, bombing, starving and dehumanising its population at will. Then he moved north to put an end to the low-intensity warfare Hizbollah had engaged in against Israel in support of Gaza, and he did it alla grande

He bombed the port of Hodeidah in Yemen to punish the Houthis, who had considered it their duty to help Gaza by disrupting international navigation and firing missiles at Israel. He kept hitting arms depots and, of course, Iranian and pro-Iranian militants in dismembered, disabled Syria. At the time of writing, he is preparing to bomb Iran, a response to the missile attacks of October 1 that not only entails overflying a few neighbouring countries but also drawing the US into providing support.  

Meanwhile, Netanyahu has never let anybody forget that his most cherished aim remains the annexation of the occupied West Bank (and therefore the extinguishing of any possible Palestinian state), where assassinations of militants, destruction of whole villages and expropriations of land are, if anything, redoubled. His finance minister Bezalel Smotrich is busy altering the legal system of “Judea and Samaria” in anticipation of what many fear will be full-fledged annexation and possibly the transfer of some 3mn Palestinians east of the River Jordan; recently he has been ruminating publicly about a Jewish state that could extend from Iraq to Egypt. 

A silver-haired man stands at a lectern, pointing to a map with a stick
Ariel Sharon points to a map of the region as he briefs the press on Israel’s military objectives during the 1982 Lebanon war © Getty Images
A grey-haired man in dark suit and tie stands at a podium, holding up two small placards, both with maps. One says ‘The Curse’ and the other says ‘The Blessing’
Benjamin Netanyahu speaking at the UN General Assembly in September © Getty Images

Militarily, Israel’s behaviour in Gaza has looked instinctive, chaotic, a retribution rather than a war (Isaac Herzog, the Israeli president, has accused all the Strip’s inhabitants of being accomplices of Hamas and therefore legitimate targets). During the year that followed October 7, Israel kept bombing hospitals and schools, mosques and churches, villages and camps, without stating, without probably knowing, what to make of the “day after”.  

In Lebanon, its war has been, by contrast, a meticulously planned one: the most recent confrontation with Hizbollah in 2006 was inconclusive, and Israeli cognoscenti have believed since then that a new confrontation with Hassan Nasrallah’s fighters was inevitable. Hence the implementation of a war plan that has been refined down to its smallest details and regularly updated during the past 18 years. The result is a campaign that combines almost sci-fi intelligence with relentless bombing from a dominating air force and state-of-the-art drones, all areas where Israel has a clear superiority, not to say supremacy. By the end of last month, in the wake of Nasrallah’s assassination, Netanyahu was half declaring victory, hailing Israel’s success in “changing the balance of power in the region for years”.

Israel’s cascade of tactical successes on both fronts is indisputable — still more so following the news this week that its troops had killed Hamas leader Yahya Sinwar in Gaza. Military experts are feverishly anticipating the next Israeli innovations. Many pro-Israeli observers are in a state of awe, if not euphoria, and all this has inevitably encouraged Netanyahu to start thinking of a new Middle East, re-engineered by Israeli arms and reflecting the new hegemon’s will. Israeli cartographers are regularly asked to equip their prime minister with maps to show from the UN lectern in which a flourishing and prosperous Middle East is on the verge of replacing a tenebrous, barbaric one. 

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Map showing the range of conflicts involving Israel across the Middle East, including Israeli offensives in Gaza and the West Bank, missile exchanges with Iran, strikes in Syria, clashes with Hizbollah in Lebanon, and military engagements involving Iranian-backed militias in Iraq and Yemen

There indeed is no doubt that Israel has altered the balance of power, substantially crippling Hamas and Hizbollah, and putting itself in a position where its government thinks it can dictate the new regional configuration — helped as it is by its victorious army, by Arab passivity, American generosity (in weapons, dollars and diplomatic support) and a broken international system. How to remain rational, let alone modest, under such a constellation of stars? 

The question is not that of this substantial change’s reality but of its durability. If anything, past attempts to reshape the Middle East have generally ended in failure: Israeli prime minister Menachem Begin entered a deep depression when examining the results of his attempt in 1982, and Bush might be ruminating still over the US-led initiative, proclaimed in 2003, to export democracy across the region through regime change. 

Starting the re-engineering of the region with an incursion in Lebanon has, in particular, been a curse for Israeli politicians: Begin and his defence minister Ariel Sharon had to resign after their 1982 large-scale invasion of their northern neighbour, which had been justified in terms very similar to Netanyahu’s now. Shimon Peres was defeated in the elections that followed his “grapes of wrath” campaign of 1996 and Ehud Olmert’s misadventure there in 2006 combined with corruption cases to bring about his downfall. The repeated promise of a “new Middle East” after each of these invasions has naturally not seen daylight. 

A grey-haired man in casual jacket stands on a rocky outcrop talking to a small group of soldiers
Ariel Sharon meeting troops in southern Lebanon during the 1982 war  © Getty Images
A soldier sits holding a rife on concrete block painted with the Star of David
A soldier in Zaura, northern Israel, in July 2006 © Polaris/eyevine

Could the present Israeli prime minister do better? There are a few good reasons for scepticism. First, aspiring hegemons need to be ready to redraw borders and promote regime change. Some application of force is indispensable and that’s why only countries with substantial military resources (Saddam Hussein was under the illusion that he possessed them) engage in such endeavours. 

However successfully they are pursued, these goals usually exact a heavy price in human lives and material resources. Netanyahu has gone so far as to predict regime change in Iran “a lot sooner than people think”. But grabbing more land while imposing obedient leaders on a few neighbouring countries is probably a tall order; Israel can hardly do both at the same time, as each objective (and sometimes both) will be vigorously opposed by other players. 

The second reason for scepticism is that Arab regimes’ passivity during the past year is very much linked to the identity of Israel’s main targets, two pro-Iranian champions of political Islam. By destroying them, Israel is also hitting what most Arab regimes consider their most serious adversaries. If and when Israel’s activism goes beyond this fortuitous convergence of interests, Arab passivity could suddenly disappear. Attempts to transfer Palestinians into neighbouring countries would in particular be opposed as a major source of political instability. Israeli attempts to impose a form of political hegemony in the Levant would not be acceptable to Egypt or Saudi Arabia and other would-be regional hegemons.  

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A man stands next to a small child. He holds up one banner and a framed picture. Behind him are apartment blocks and a large area of rubble
In the Beirut suburb of Dahiyeh in August 2006, a man stands amid buildings damaged by Israeli attacks, holding pictures of Hizbollah leader Hassan Nasrallah and Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini of Iran © Getty Images
A large banner of a smiling grey-haired man with a beard next to some bushes, damaged buildings and what looks like a fallen crane
A portrait of Hizbollah’s Hassan Nasrallah surrounded by wreckage in the Dahiyeh neighbourhood this month © Adrien Vautier

A third reason is that the excessive use of force will keep Israel’s adversaries in a state of anger: Israel can accumulate tactical wins but it cannot translate them into a stable hegemony. With the fundamental issues remaining unresolved, Hamas (or a successor group) and Hizbollah can reinvent themselves any time in the coming years, their most recent humiliation playing as an incentive rather than a deterrent (there are reasons to believe that, while being pounded like hell, both groups have been able to attract new recruits). 

Fragile states in the region, when not accomplices of anti-Israeli movements, can hardly prevent the re-emergence of groups with deep cultural roots and what they consider a legitimate cause. It seems likely that the Palestinian cause will continue to play the role of the Bible’s burning bush, extinguished only to be reignited immediately after. 

Fourth, an Israeli hegemony would be built on sheer, naked, arrogant power. All Israel’s neighbours are presently on the defensive: Syria is effectively occupied; Iraq has not recaptured its national unity since its “liberation”, nor been organised by strong, transparent institutions; Jordan fears the annexation of the West Bank and its own transformation into an alternative Palestinian state (something that had been part of the programme of Netanyahu’s Likud party for decades and has recently risen up the agenda in Tel Aviv and possibly in Mar-a-Lago as well). 

Badly damaged apartment blocks, with piles of rubble between the street between them
A street in a Beirut suburb damaged in an Israeli raid targeting Hizbollah’s television station, Al-Manar, in July 2006 © Getty Images
A pile of rubble and a dust-covered car in smoky street. One figure is walking along in the distance, wearing a hi-vis jacket
Smoke and dust filling the streets of Al-Hadath, a southern suburb of Beirut, after a night of bombing at the beginning of this month © Sylvain Rostaing

As for my country, Lebanon, it is financially bankrupt, politically paralysed (with no president, a government with limited powers and a dormant parliament) and threatened by the recurrence of civil war. Israel’s hegemony, if it is established, would be an easy victory but in an unstable, frustrated, angry environment that could hardly be pacified. Even if the war stopped today, Lebanon would still need years to recover. Israel might find informants in such an environment but would search desperately for allies and proxies. 

This is more so because the kind of regional hegemony Israel is attempting to build is totally non-Gramscian: it does not seek to integrate the defeated but, on the contrary, keeps excluding him. Its expansionist messianism is unpalatable even to the least bellicose of the region’s populations simply because they could have no part in it. They consider themselves utterly removed from the Holocaust inflicted by Europeans on the Jews and are therefore unwilling to pay, yet again, for Europe’s misdeeds. Integration of the weak into the powerful’s domain, as analysed by Antonio Gramsci or, long before him, by the great Ibn Khaldūn (who wrote of a process by which the weak accept a lesser standing as long as they are part of the ruler’s network, probably a precondition for sustainable hegemony), is impossible in these circumstances. 

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In this respect, the domestic evolution of the country is a mirror. Since its victory in the 1967 war, Israel has changed. This can be seen in the Druze community, traditionally a disproportionate source of recruits to the Israeli military, where there is growing unease about a redefinition of Israel that solidifies their standing as second-class citizens. It was evident too in the protests throughout the spring and summer of 2023, when liberal Israelis demonstrated in hundreds of thousands against the Netanyahu government’s “reforms” of the judiciary, meant to constrain its autonomy.  

In other words, a reconfiguration of Israel as a religious entity (as illustrated by the settlers’ increasing influence on politics or the large increase of religious militants in the officer corps) makes it even more exclusivist: liberal Jews and — certainly — Arab citizens of the state are not welcome. This transformation of the Israeli polity (not its mere “slide to the right”, as often reported) has been going in parallel with the attempt at regional hegemony, a combination that can hardly reassure large segments of the Israeli population or the country’s neighbours in the region. 

Those the gods afflict with hubris free themselves from reason. UN secretary-general António Guterres was declared persona non grata only because he reminded Israel that international humanitarian law also applies to it. Emmanuel Macron was promised hell because he suggested that arms deliveries to Israel should be halted. The International Criminal Court was demonised when it spoke of war crimes being committed; we do not know whether it will issue arrest warrants for Israeli leaders. Even countries that have normalised their relations with Israel are disoriented by its elastic definition of its security and contempt for others’ concern for theirs.  

A street crowded with mostly young people, many waving Israeli flags
Protesters gather in Tel Aviv in July 2023 to demonstrate against the Netanyahu government’s judicial reforms © Getty Images
The ruins of an ancient temple and, beyond it, a range of slopes with crops planted on them
The Faqra Roman temple in Mount Lebanon © Alamy

Similarly, the idea of Israel as a bulwark of civilisation against barbarism is a pretension that finds an echo in the west (certainly in the US Congress) but can hardly describe the region’s ancient civilisations nor adequately reflect the Israeli army’s behaviour in Gaza. Closer to reality is Israel’s attempt to be an advanced military fort for the west, and many in the west are happy with that role. But an advanced military fort cannot be a regional hegemon, much less a beacon of civilisation. 

In this tortured, agitated, broken region, there still is a way to avoid the worst. It is by bringing back to the forefront the heart of the matter, the issue that has been around for a century and a half of conflict, the issue that many Israelis want to forget: the Palestinians’ basic political rights. Israel’s regional adventures often look like a flight from that ever-present, painful fact. Unless the Palestinians’ right to a state of their own alongside Israel is recognised and materially implemented, they will not cease to be a source of (fully legitimate) disruption, making their life and that of their neighbours impossible. 

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The aspiring hegemon has concluded that if force does not pacify the Palestinians and those who, sincerely or cynically, support their cause, the remedy is in the application of even more force. If history is of any use, it teaches us that the use of force to settle complex political issues is always sterile and often counter-productive. In any case, the ruins left by Israel’s present pounding of Lebanon have none of the charm left by Romans and Byzantines in my village: they are instead the mark of an unconstrained, unbearable hubris.

The writer is a professor of international relations emeritus at Sciences-Po (Paris) and a former senior adviser to the United Nations secretary-general

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Major Spanish city launches new tourist crackdown that will impact thousands of Brits – The Sun

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A tourist hotspot in Spain has slammed holidaymakers with fresh restrictions

A TOURIST hotspot in Spain has slammed holidaymakers with fresh restrictions – will you be affected?

Brits dreaming of jetting off to Seville are set to be impacted by the new rules, which will see a clamp down on Airbnb-style accommodation.

A tourist hotspot in Spain has slammed holidaymakers with fresh restrictions

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A tourist hotspot in Spain has slammed holidaymakers with fresh restrictionsCredit: Getty
Brits dreaming of jetting off to Seville are set to be impacted by the new rules, which will see a clamp down on Airbnb-style accommodation

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Brits dreaming of jetting off to Seville are set to be impacted by the new rules, which will see a clamp down on Airbnb-style accommodationCredit: Getty

The controversial regulations raised eyebrows as they were announced on Thursday.

It means the number of tourist apartments in each neighbourhood can’t exceed 10 per cent of total homes.

This will significantly impact areas such as Triana, that are already overrun with tourists, where no new licences will be granted.

Urban Planning delegate, Juan de la Rosa, said the move hopes to forge more reconciliation between tourism and disgruntled locals who feel pushed out.

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But, the Spanish Socialist Workers’ Party hit back and said new rules should have be even “tougher and more ambitious”.

Under the fresh policy, 23,000 licences could still be granted in areas with less tourists.

It comes after government in Barcelona stripped 10,000 tourist flats of their licence to the fury of Airbnb owners.

And, in June, the mayor of the Catalan capital announced a full ban in holiday apartments by November 2028 in an attempt to relieve the city’s housing crisis.

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The famous city also revealed there would be an increase on daily tourist charges.

It comes after the cosmopolitan capital previously upped their traveller tax from €2.75 (£2.33) to €3.25 (£2.75) in April.

Brits on Tenerife holidays blasted for turning sunny haven into a ‘tourism ghetto’ amid calls for huge clampdown

By Summer Raemason

FUMING locals have slammed selfish holidaymakers in Tenerife for turning their paradise into a ‘tourism ghetto’.

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An influx of “ignorant” visitors has sparked outrage among Canary islands residents, as costs soar and drunken partygoers keep them up all night.

The Covid pandemic saw a boost in tourists arriving to the popular destination, and now locals are revolting in the wake of skyrocketing rent prices and overburdened services.

Some took to the streets with spray paint to sprawl bitter messages outside tourism hotspots which read “your paradise, our misery” and “tourists go home”.

Josua Garcia-Garcia is up in arms about the ongoing ordeal and told the MailOnline it is a “nightmare” when holidaymakers take over the island.

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“I only get four hours of sleep every night because of the music and noise, which keeps me up until three in the morning,” explained the 33-year-old bar worker.

The frustrated local called for “stricter rules” to be enforced on “ignorant” tourists to prevent residents from more “suffering”.

“Rents are soaring and people on average salaries cannot afford to live here any more, once they pay their rent they have no money for food,” he continued.

It comes as more AirBnBs crop up across the island, driving residents out, with less properties on the market.

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In turn, the price tag on remaining homes is becoming too expensive for those who want to stay.

And, Tenerife is not the only holiday destination struggling with this issue.

Locals in UK coastal resorts such as Devon and Cornwall have also blasted greedy tourists for snapping up second homes.

The issue worsened amid Covid as more Brits chose staycations over travelling abroad.

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Last year, Canary Island residents held a protest against the arrival of more holidaymakers.

In what has been dubbed ‘tourismphobia’, they marched the streets holding banners which read “the Canaries are no longer a paradise” and “the Canaries are not for sale”.

Doctor Matías González Hernández, an academic at Las Palmas University, claimed locals faced homelessness.

He said they “can’t afford to rent or buy a house” due to rising inflation and rent prices.

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More graffiti in the popular town of Las Palmas reflect this, and read “average salary in Canary Islands is 1,200,” which equates to £1,000.

The academic called on their government for better infrastructure to accommodate growing demands – such as improving roads.

“Right now you get stuck for two hours on the main road,” he said.

Now, holidaymakers will be forced to fork out €4 (£3.39) for city tax from October to enjoy the beauties Barcelona has to offer.

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It comes after the city council vowed to promote “quality tourism”, with around 32million holidaymakers arriving per year.

Meanwhile, the shift against holidaymaker accommodation in Seville was sparked after it was revealed rental prices have risen by over 70 per cent in the last 10 years.

The anguish reflects how Tenerife locals felt in recent news when they made headlines for holding anti-tourism protests in the streets.

Residents in idyllic hotspots have slammed holidaymakers for staining important amenities.

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Essentials including post offices and village shops were being disposed of to make way for more houses and cafes for tourists.

And, locals are struggling to climb on the property ladder as many houses sit empty, being used as second homes and holiday lets.

In some hotspots this has created a major housing crisis as demand for accommodation and second homes drives house prices sky high.

Road infrastructure and parking systems also often can’t cope with more tourists – leading to traffic chaos and safety concerns.

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The issues see younger families leaving the area, in turn making it harder for community members left behind.

It comes as other holiday destinations closer to home have slammed tourists.

Disgruntled locals along the beautiful north Norfolk coast have voiced support for a unbroken 30-mile “wall” in a bid to stop the influx of unwelcome visitors.

Meanwhile, residents living in Anglesey, North Wales, say their lives are being plagued by inconsiderate visitors and ‘greedy’ outsiders snapping up second homes.

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Elsewhere in the UK, homeowners of Staithes. the northernmost village in Yorkshire, are frustrated with holiday lets.

And, in Padstow, North Cornwall, glorious golden beaches and picturesque countryside are a hit with tourists – but now its popularity is wreaking havoc with residents.

Anti-tourist measures sweeping hotspots

A WAVE of anti-tourist measures are being implemented across Europe to curb mass tourism in popular holiday hotspots.

Overcrowding has become the main problem in many sunny destinations, with authorities trying to find a solution to keep tourists and locals happy.

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Officials have attempted to reduce the impact of holidaymakers by implementing additional taxes on tourists, or banning new hotels.

Earlier this year Venice became the first city in the world to charge an entry fee for holidaymakers after it started charging day-trippers €5 (£4.30) if visiting the historical Italian centre.

It was followed by an area in Barcelona which resorted to removing a well-used bus route from Apple and Google Maps to stop crowds of tourists from using the bus.

 Meanwhile, San Sebastián in the north of Spain, limited the maximum number of people on guided visits to 25 to avoid congestion, noise, nuisance and overcrowding.

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The city has already banned the construction of new hotels.

The Spanish government has allowed restaurants to charge customers more for sitting in the shade in Andalucia.

Benidorm has introduced time restrictions, as swimming in the sea between midnight and 7am could cost a whopping £1,000.

The Canary Islands are also considering adopting measures to regulate the number of visitors – and charge tourists a daily tax.

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Greece has already enforced a tourist tax during the high season (from March to October) with visitors expected to pay from €1 (£0.86) to €4 (£3.45) per night, depending on the booked accommodation.

Officials in Santiago de Compostela in Galicia want to introduce a fee for travellers to remind people to be courteous during their trips.

It means the number of tourist apartments in each neighbourhood can't exceed 10 per cent of total homes

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It means the number of tourist apartments in each neighbourhood can’t exceed 10 per cent of total homesCredit: Getty

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The royal hotel creating a buzz on Morocco’s Mediterranean coast

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Two sun loungers, partially shaded by a striped parasol above them, next to a sandy beach, with a speedboat visible in the background

Even in the off-season there are 450 immaculately turned out members of staff at the Royal Mansour on Morocco’s Mediterranean coast. They pander to the needs of the guests housed in just 55 suites and villas and wear, by my reckoning, 17 distinct styles of uniform.

The butlers have crisp beige suits, the waiters green silk blouses, and the man who drives the luggage cart dazzles in a bright red uniform with matching cap. There are special outfits, mostly in understated colours, for the concierge staff, the engineers, the various ranks of housekeepers, as well as for those who deliver room service.

The mystery is: where are they all hiding? You can stroll along the beautiful sandy beach picking up vibrant-coloured shells, or cycle along the swept paths through the hotel’s lovely manicured gardens, and think yourself virtually alone. A few greeters and gardeners (in their own rustic outfits) are dotted about, but there’s no one shuttling between the lobby and the sand-coloured villas. Even the private butlers appear to be invisible, popping up as if by magic only when their discreet services are required.

It is only later that I solve the riddle of the disappearing staff. Beneath the hotel complex is a secret network of tunnels. Out of sight and out of earshot, members of staff flit along in vehicles beneath the surface, rising in dedicated lifts to deliver champagne and trays of Moroccan sweets, to plump pillows and to arrange the poolside towels just-so. It is not so much upstairs-downstairs as overground-underground.

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Two sun loungers, partially shaded by a striped parasol above them, next to a sandy beach, with a speedboat visible in the background
Hotel loungers overlooking the Plage de M’Diq
A door to one of the hotel rooms
A traditional door to one of the suites

If it is service fit for a king, that is no coincidence. The hotel is owned by Mohammed VI, Morocco’s monarch since 1999. In 2010 he opened the Royal Mansour in Marrakech — a no-expense-spared celebration of Moroccan craftsmanship, newly built but with swathes of intricate zellij mosaics and traditional hand-sculpted plasterwork. Rather than rooms, its guests stay in their own private riads, arranged in a sort of simulacrum of the medina. Some visitors have found an eeriness in the way the real city’s colour and chaos have been substituted for jasmine-scented silence, but the hotel has been a hit, drawing a string of celebrities and commanding room rates that rarely dip below £1,300 per night.

Map of Morocco, highlighting the Royal Mansour Tamuda Bay and nearby areas such as Tangier and Tetouan

In April this year a second Royal Mansour opened, a marble-lined tower in the country’s economic and financial hub, Casablanca. And now the royal hotel group has launched its first beach hotel, here at Tamuda Bay. The king is unlikely actually to stay — he has a rather nice beachside pad-cum-palace right next door — but friends and members of his extended family were apparently frequent visitors in the run-up to the official opening last month.

If the movements of the staff are a well-kept secret so, in its way, is Morocco’s Mediterranean coast, at least outside the kingdom. With the Rif mountains arcing in the background, it extends for almost 400km, from the Spanish enclave of Ceuta all the way to the Algerian border in the east.

Though the Atlantic coast, and towns such as Essaouira, Agadir, Oualidia and Taghazout, are better known internationally, the stretch of Mediterranean coastline around the Royal Mansour and the little town of M’diq turns out to be where the country’s jet-set spend their summers, eating the local sardines in beachside restaurants and feeding the wild boars which come down from the wooded hillsides.

Modern four-poster bed surrounded by high-quality wooden furniture
One of the bedrooms, featuring typically muted colours
Picture of four white sunloungers under two large parasols beside a swimming pool with palm trees in the background
The hotel’s swimming pool

By October, when I visit, the king and his retinue have moved on, the boars are gone and the hullabaloo has quelled. Yet the temperature is still a glorious 27 degrees and the sky and ocean — at least during my stay — are improbable shades of uninterrupted blue. Only a three-hour flight from London, plus a 90-minute drive from Tangier airport in the hotel’s electric car, it makes for a viable winter getaway (especially given rates remain far below those of the Marrakech property).

I arrive at night and am golf-carted to my room. The hotel’s complex stretches a good half-mile along a wide private beach of fine sand. In the morning, the ocean is a leisurely 60-second walk away, assuming one is not waylaid by the swimming pool.

A series of low-rise buildings each house between four and eight suites; the seven villas are spread out for seclusion with their beach area further hidden by sand dunes. If walking to the main lobby seems too far, guests can go by golf-cart (courtesy of the man in red) or cycle. Wherever you abandon your bike, it mysteriously winds up next to your suite again, as if delivered by invisible pixies.

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Junction in an old Arabic city at a very hot and sunny time of day, featuring white walls with brightly coloured painted patterns, and the colourful arched door to a mosque
The entrance to a mosque in Tétouan, a city about 20 minutes’ drive from the hotel © Alamy
A Middle Eastern marketplace, with some stalls selling fruit and veg, others selling material, others selling clothes and household items
Street market in the Ensanche district of Tétouan © Alamy
Picturesque Moorish arches in the medina of a North African town
The Moorish architecture in Tétouan, where the medina is a Unesco World Heritage Site © Getty

Though the decor is opulent, the tile work and woven carpets are in muted, rather soothing, colours. In the day, the light against the crisp lines of the hotel buildings’ walls has a stark, David Hockney quality. As the sun sets, the blues and beiges blur into the ocean, the sand and the purplish night air.

The hotel has multiple restaurants (including one Spanish, one French and one Italian) and a huge spa on two floors offering both therapeutic and hedonistic treatments. Children are welcome. Those aged four to 12 can be deposited in a kids club, almost as tastefully decorated as the adult quarters, where they are entertained, according to the hotel bumf, with calligraphy, music and cooking lessons — and no doubt with video games and cartoons when their parents’ backs are turned.

One day, I take a tour to the nearby walled city of Tétouan, a 25-minute drive away and about 40km south of the Strait of Gibraltar. Home to about 380,000 and a medina that is a Unesco World Heritage Site, it is an unexpected gem. In the second century BC, the region’s first inhabitants traded with Phoenicians and were later colonised by Romans and Berbers, but the city’s modern history began in the 15th century when it was settled by Muslims and Jews from Andalusia. When the last Moriscos were expelled from Spain between 1609 and 1614, many came to Tétouan, which is sometimes known as “Granada’s daughter”. In 1913, it became the capital of the Spanish Protectorate of northern Morocco, which lasted a little over 40 years.

An outdoor dining area in the grounds of a Mediterranean hotel, with tables under large parasols, and seats around a cooking station, with two chefs in it
The Pool Beach, the hotel’s casual all-day restaurant; its menu is overseen by the celebrated Spanish chef Quique Dacosta

Today it is a pleasant place to walk around, a curious mix of art deco in eye-dazzling white, heavy Andalusian doors and Moroccan riads, with their courtyard gardens. Spanish cafés selling bocadillos and strong black coffee sit side by side with outlets offering sweet cakes and syrupy mint tea. The maze-like medina, with its Jewish and Muslim quarters, is a mini-Marrakech, arguably more interesting because less touristic.

Morocco is starting to market the Mediterranean coast abroad and several grand hotels have opened on this stretch of coastline, including the St Regis and the Ritz-Carlton. But if your idea of luxury is an invisible retinue of underground staff and a monarch as an occasional next door neighbour, then there is probably only one choice.

David Pilling is the FT’s Africa editor

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David Pilling was a guest of the Royal Mansour Tamuda Bay (royalmansour.com), where double rooms start from Dh4,500 (£350) per night; villas sleeping seven cost from Dh52,000 per night. There are direct flights to Tangier from numerous European cities, including London, Paris, Madrid, Brussels and Rome

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Huge pizza chain issues urgent warning to customers over popular dip feared to be contaminated

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Huge pizza chain issues urgent warning to customers over popular dip feared to be contaminated

A MAJOR pizza chain has issued an urgent warning to customers after fears over contaminated popular dips.

The global restaurant company, with more than 450 branches across the UK, was forced to stop serving the much-loved condiments.

Papa Johns issued an urgent warning to customers

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Papa Johns issued an urgent warning to customersCredit: Getty

Papa Johns issued the warning over two products amid health fears and allergy risks.

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Their Garlic and Herb Dip, and their Vegan Ranch Dressing were pulled as they may contain traces of peanuts.

A Papa Johns spokesman said: “At Papa Johns, customer safety is our top priority.

“Certain batches of our Garlic and Herb Dip and our Vegan Ranch Dressing may contain traces of peanuts. Our 25g dips are included with pizzas, and we recently introduced a 100g version. If you have a peanut allergy, please do not consume these dips and dispose of them.

“Our Vegan Ranch Dressing, used on products, may also contain traces of peanuts. If you have a peanut allergy, please avoid these items.

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“We are working quickly to resolve this issue. In the meantime, we will replace the Garlic and Herb Dip with our Special Garlic Dip, which is unaffected.

“For any questions or concerns, please contact us at info@papajohns.co.uk.

“We sincerely apologise for any inconvenience and thank you for your understanding.”

Fellow industry titan, Domino’s, was forced to make the same announcement last month.

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Two Domino’s dip flavours are among the recalled items: the Domino’s Garlic & Herb Dip and the Honey & Mustard one.

Domino’s previously urged those with a peanut allergy to dispose of the dips mentioned on the recall alert and avoid consuming them.

The fast-food chain apologised for any concern this may cause and recommended that customers with queries visit their contact form here.

A Domino’s spokesman said: “At Domino’s Pizza, the quality of our products and the safety of our customers is the highest priority, particularly when it comes to allergens.

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“We have become aware that some of our Garlic & Herb and Honey & Mustard dip may contain traces of peanut.

“This issue may impact both our 100g ‘Big Dip’ pots and the smaller, 25g, pots we provide with our pizzas.

“If you DO HAVE A PEANUT ALLERGY, please dispose of the dips and do not consume them.

“If you DO NOT have a peanut allergy, no further action is required.”

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The signs of an allergic reaction and anaphylaxis + what to do

SYMPTOMS of an allergy usually occur within minutes of contact with with the offending food or trigger, but they can also come on up to one hour later.

Most allergic reactions are mild but they can also be moderate or severe.

Anaphylaxis is the most severe form of allergic reaction which can be life threatening.

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In some cases, anaphylaxis symptoms lead to collapse and unconsciousness and, on rare occasions, can be fatal so it’s important to know how to recognise them and act quickly.

Mild to moderate symptoms include:

  • Itchy mouth, tongue and throat
  • Swelling of lips, around the eyes or face
  • Red raised itchy rash (often called nettle rash, hives or urticaria)
  • Vomiting, nausea, abdominal pain and diarrhoea
  • Runny nose and sneezing

Severe symptoms of anaphylaxis include:

  • Swelling of your throat and tongue
  • Difficulty breathing or breathing very fast
  • Difficulty swallowing, tightness in your throat or a hoarse voice
  • Wheezing, coughing or noisy breathing
  • Feeling tired or confused
  • Feeling faint, dizzy or fainting
  • Skin that feels cold to the touch
  • Blue, grey or pale skin, lips or tongue – if you have brown or black skin, this may be easier to see on the palms of your hands or soles of your feet

Anaphylaxis and its symptoms should be treated as a medical emergency.

Follow these steps if you think you or someone you’re with is having an anaphylactic reaction:

  1. Use an adrenaline auto-injector (such as an EpiPen) if you have one  instructions are included on the side of the injector.
  2. Call 999 for an ambulance and say that you think you’re having an anaphylactic reaction.
  3. Lie down – you can raise your legs, and if you’re struggling to breathe, raise your shoulders or sit up slowly (if you’re pregnant, lie on your left side).
  4. If you have been stung by an insect, try to remove the sting if it’s still in the skin.
  5. If your symptoms have not improved after 5 minutes, use a second adrenaline auto-injector.

Do not stand or walk at any time, even if you feel better.

Sources: Allergy UK, NHS

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It comes as the Food Standards Agency has issued a number of alerts for food products containing mustard powder, imported from India, which may have been contaminated with peanuts.

The food watchdog recalled dozens of foods and condiments they had reason to believe might be with peanuts not listed on the label.

Sold under various brand names and across a range of stores, recalled dips, sandwiches and salads contain mustard, which may have traces of peanuts.

“This means these products are a possible health risk for anyone with an allergy to peanuts,” the Food Standard Agency (FSA) said.

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“If you have bought any of the above products and have an allergy to peanuts, do not eat them.”

The alert was first issued when the food watchdog urged Brits with peanut allergies to avoid all mustard-containing products while they determined the source of the contamination.

Since then, they have published a full list of 64 products they believe have been contaminated, which was updated yesterday to include the Thiccc Sauce Meat Candy & Thiccc Sauce BBQ Sriracha.

Sold in convenience stores and off-licences, a number of SPAR sandwiches, wraps and pasta salads have been pulled from shelves too.

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Other items included on the recent recall alert that may contain traces of peanuts include Fazilas wraps and Clayton Park sandwiches.

Peanut allergies are particularly common, affecting about one in 50 children in the UK, increasing in recent decades, according to Allergy UK.

Rebecca Sudworth, Director of Policy at the FSA, said: “This remains a complex investigation, and we are continuing to work with Food Standards Scotland, relevant businesses, local authorities, and agencies to ensure the necessary measures are in place to protect consumers.

“While our investigations continue our advice remains the same: people with a peanut allergy should continue to avoid consuming all foods that contain or may contain mustard, mustard seeds, mustard powder or mustard flour.

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“Our current focus is to ensure all affected products have been withdrawn and recalled.

“Once this has taken place, we are confident we’ll be in a position to remove some of our additional advice for consumers, so they can continue to enjoy food that is safe and trust the product label and information accurately reflects the allergenic content.

“Until this happens it’s very important that people with a peanut allergy continue to avoid any product containing mustard or mustard ingredients.”

Full list of recalled products

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  1. Thiccc Sauce Meat Candy
  2. Thiccc Sauce BBQ Sriracha
  3. En Route Macaroni Cheese
  4. Carlos Takeaway Garlic & Herb Dip
  5. Pro-Cook Macaroni Cheese
  6. Spa Macaroni Cheese
  7. Jack’s Macaroni Cheese
  8. Dominos The Big Dip – Garlic & Herb
  9. Dominos Garlic & Herb Dip
  10. Dominos Honey & Mustard Dip
  11. Jack’s Egg Mayonnaise Deli Filler
  12. Green Cuisine Mustard Powder
  13. Jack’s Potato Salad
  14. Jack’s Cheese & Onion Deli Filler
  15. Jack’s Coronation Chicken Deli Filler
  16. SPAR Coleslaw
  17. SPAR Chicken and Bacon Sandwich Filler
  18. SPAR Tuna and Sweetcorn Sandwich Filler
  19. SPAR Cheese and Onion Sandwich Filler
  20. SPAR Onion and Garlic Dip
  21. SPAR Sour Cream and Chive Dip
  22. Trailhead Fine Foods Get Jerky – BBQ Beef Jerky
  23. Jack’s Potato SPAR Tuna and Corn Pasta Salad
  24. SPAR Chicken and Bacon Pasta Salad
  25. SPAR Chicken, Tomato and Basil Pasta Salad
  26. SPAR Chicken, Honey and Mustard Pasta Salad
  27. SPAR BLT Sandwich
  28. SPAR Cheese Savoury Sandwich
  29. SPAR Chicken Club Sandwich
  30. SPAR Chicken Caesar Wrap
  31. SPAR Chicken Mayonnaise Sandwich
  32. SPAR Chicken Salad Sandwich
  33. Tim Horton’s BBQ Sauce dip
  34. SPAR Chicken and Bacon Sandwich
  35. SPAR Prawn Mayonnaise Sandwich
  36. SPAR Simply Tuna and Corn Sandwich
  37. SPAR Tuna Crunch Roll
  38. SPAR Tuna Mayonnaise Sandwich
  39. SPAR Tuna Wrap
  40. SPAR Cajun Chicken Wrap
  41. SPAR Chicken Tikka Wrap
  42. SPAR Hot and Spicy Cheese Wrap
  43. SPAR Sweet Chilli Chicken Wrap
  44. Fireaway BBQ Sauce Dip Pot
  45. Fazilas Chicken Tender Wrap
  46. Fazilas Chilli Cheese Wrap
  47. Fazilas Tandoori Chicken Wrap
  48. Clayton Park BLT
  49. Clayton Park Cheese Savoury Sandwich
  50. Clayton Park Chicken Club Sandwich
  51. Clayton Park Chicken Caesar Wrap
  52. Clayton Park Chicken Mayonnaise Sandwich
  53. Clayton Park Chicken Salad Sandwich
  54. Clayton Park Chicken and Bacon Sandwich
  55. Wisely Well Macaroni Cheese
  56. Clayton Park Prawn Mayonnaise Sandwich
  57. Clayton Park Simply Tuna Sandwich
  58. Clayton Park Tuna Crunch Roll
  59. Clayton Park Tuna Mayonnaise Sandwich
  60. Clayton Park Tuna Wrap
  61. Clayton Park Chicken Club Sandwich
  62. Parsley Box Macaroni Cheese
  63. Diet Chef Macaroni Cheese
  64. Jane Plan Macaroni Cheese
  65. Papa Johns Pizza Garlic and Herb Dip
  66. Papa Johns Pizza Vegan Ranch Dressing

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US firm’s Russia work prompts Congress to demand stricter sanctions

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US firm’s Russia work prompts Congress to demand stricter sanctions

Letter to Biden administration warns SLB is helping finance ‘barbaric invasion’ of Ukraine

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Little-known fridge cleaning trick that could save cash on your energy bills – and it costs just 40p

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Little-known fridge cleaning trick that could save cash on your energy bills - and it costs just 40p

CLEANING is one of those jobs no one really enjoys doing, but sprucing up your fridge could actually save you cash.

That’s because if you neglect cleaning certain appliances, it’s not just unhygienic, but it can be costly too.

Cleaning your fridge more often could help to save you cash on your energy bills

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Cleaning your fridge more often could help to save you cash on your energy billsCredit: Getty

With energy bills rising by £149 annually for the average household at the beginning of this month, we’re all looking for ways to save.

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And the key to saving cash could be giving your fridge a good scrub.

But only a fifth of households clean their fridge just twice a year, according to Lakeland’s Trends Report.

Some 18% of households clean their fridge twice a year, while 16% do it on an “ad hoc” basis only when it becomes noticeably dirty.

But kitchen experts actually advise that you should clean your fridge after every big supermarket shop.

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Not only will this prevent bacteria from lurking, it can also help it to run more efficiently.

Simply cleaning and dusting the coils at the back of your fridge can slash energy consumption by up to 25%, according to Which?.

This is because dust on the coils can prevent the fridge from cooling properly.

You can vacuum away the dust and dirt to get your fridge freezer working more efficiently again which should bring down your energy usage.

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You can prevent dirt and grime from clogging the coils by using reusable food covers to stop spills from opened packets or leftovers.

You’re storing your milk wrong & it should never go in the fridge door, expert says, here’s where it should live instead

Covermate elasticated covers cost just £3.49 for a pack of eight from Lakeland. Or Tesco sells three reusable silicone lids for £3.

If you do have a spillage, it’s important to make sure that you clean it up straight away.

Flash kitchen cleaning spray costs at little as 40p at Morrisons.

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Of course, it’s important to compare prices to make sure you’re getting the best deal.

Supermarkets change their prices all the time, sometimes multiple times daily, so it’s worth checking you’re getting the best price.

You can use websites like Trolley to see how the major supermarket’s compare in terms of price on any number of goods.

How do I calculate my energy bill?

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BELOW we reveal how you can calculate your own energy bill.

To calculate how much you pay for your energy bill, you must find out your unit rate for gas and electricity and the standing charge for each fuel type.

The unit rate will usually be shown on your bill in p/kWh.The standing charge is a daily charge that is paid 365 days of the year – irrespective of whether or not you use any gas or electricity.

You will then need to note down your own annual energy usage from a previous bill.

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Once you have these details, you can work out your gas and electricity costs separately.

Multiply your usage in kWh by the unit rate cost in p/kWh for the corresponding fuel type – this will give you your usage costs.

You’ll then need to multiply each standing charge by 365 and add this figure to the totals for your usage – this will then give you your annual costs.

Divide this figure by 12, and you’ll be able to determine how much you should expect to pay each month from April 1.

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Other tips to cut fridge freezer costs

If you don’t defrost the freezer compartment in your fridge regularly, it could add significantly to your bills.

The frost buildup increases the amount of work your freezer’s motor has to do.

And if the motor is working harder, then this means it’s using more energy.

You can chip away at any build-up once it starts to look a little glacial inside and then your energy bill won’t have to take such a hit.

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It’s also important to clean the condenser coils on the back of the appliance, as dust on the coils can prevent the fridge from cooling properly.

Replace damaged door seals to ensure cold air cannot escape and be wasted and let food cool down completely before refrigerating.

New seals are often available online for £30 to £100.

If you’re looking to replace an old model with a new eco-friendly version you could also save on your energy bills each year.

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It’s worth shopping around to make sure you’re getting the best model at the best price if you decide to go down this road.

Do you have a money problem that needs sorting? Get in touch by emailing money-sm@news.co.uk.

Plus, you can join our Sun Money Chats and Tips Facebook group to share your tips and stories

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How George Orwell became a dead metaphor

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George Orwell died in 1950, but he’s in the newspapers nearly every day. In the past few years alone, the British press has quoted him on whether Britain is an unserious country, whether book blurbs are degenerate and why a good British pub should be revolting. Writers ask what he would have made of the end of British coal, and repeat his counsel on how to make the perfect cup of tea. They cite him on why English people love queueing, the importance of having hobbies, why “cancel culture” is a poor substitute for free speech. They ask what he can teach us about Israel and Palestine and when Britain will tire of its culture wars. One might just as well ask when Britain will tire of the obligatory Orwell reference.

How is it that Orwell has become the single answer to so many questions, in so many different subjects, for so many people? His name conjures an amorphous idea of fair play and “common sense”; his spare prose supposedly brings cool nonpartisanship to a world of impassioned blusterers. In keeping your sentences clean, the theory goes, you practise intellectual hygiene (“good prose is like a windowpane” and all that). A single word, “Orwellian”, evokes the great man’s foresight about the dangers of an overweening nanny state, a censorious far-left or whatever else may be getting your goat that day.

Orwell now stands for a set of broad assumptions: that free speech is good and purple prose is bad, for instance; for the importance of careful proportionality; for the idea that, in a wild world of populist extremism, the sensible counterweight might actually be not to have an opinion at all. Or, rather, to have an unopened mystery box of opinions labelled “George Orwell”. Orwell, the thinker, elaborated his views with rigour and specificity. Orwell, the figure quoted by other writers, has become a substitute for doing just that.

For years, journalists, critics and columnists have vied for his posthumous approval, in the quest to become that most enviable of figures — the truly impartial observer, who stands apart from the fray. Above all, his fans admire the idea that it might be possible to take a courageous stance precisely by refusing to take a side at all.

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That most of Orwell’s acolytes are English, as was he, seems not to undermine his neutrality. The theory is simple: first you master spare prose, then you master cogent and neutral thought, and finally you impart your cogent, neutral thoughts to the wider public.


The seeds for this rather mad idea — to stay on the right side of history in 2024, all you have to do is write like one specific dead guy — can be found in “Politics and the English Language”, an essay published in the immediate aftermath of the second world war. Here, Orwell posits that swindlers and fools swaddle up their opinions in unnecessary verbiage, whereas, in forcing ourselves to write plainly, we think better. “If you simplify your English, you are freed from the worst follies of orthodoxy,” he writes, “and when you make a stupid remark its stupidity will be obvious, even to yourself.” The essay is nostalgic for plain Saxon English, fine British values, simpler days.

The way we use English has evolved since then. Orwell’s hope that spartan language could unmask stupidity looks decidedly naive in today’s political landscape. Our modern-day swindlers and fools speak much more clearly than the Latin-quoting bloviators of Orwell’s time, yet their lunacy is not always exposed by simple phrasing. “Get Brexit done” was a) plain as can be, and b) persuasive enough to many people that they voted for it in droves. Donald Trump may be in a fraught situationship with grammar, but his English isn’t at all flowery. As the literary critic Houman Barekat wrote in a 2013 re-evaluation of “Politics and the English Language”, “If the verbal currency of daily exchange is superficially more straightforward than it was in the 1930s and 40s, the art of bullshitting is nonetheless alive and well.”

The shared Englishness of Orwell and his admirers comes to seem less coincidental the more he draws a link between Saxon words and a sort of vitality, versus Latinate ones and pretension. The myth of an uncorrupted English is appealing. It enables the suggestion that some international ill wind carries over bad ideas, while Englishness itself remains sound. If we’d only stick to the West Germanic roots of our language, surely it would keep us honest. (Or rather, “truthful”, as “honest” is another of those pesky Latinate interlopers.)

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This “pure” English is a myth, of course. Neither the Saxon nor the Norman half of English is native to the island of Britain. Neither language family is intrinsically more politically sensible; Germans have, in fact, managed to be fascist in German. What’s more, one cannot be history’s most prolific global coloniser without accepting changes into the language. The words we use to discuss politics show these ties: the English took “pundit” from Hindi and “slogan” from Irish. They took a lot more too, but the pay-off, linguistically, is that English no longer belongs to the English. Its former colonies now have far more English-speakers, and consequently the majority vote on how the language will change.

Still, English Orwell acolytes take a certain comfort in the binary of “homegrown English/sensible opinions” versus “foreign English/pretentious sophistry”. These fans don’t dwell explicitly on this point; today’s English journalism gives little cause to complain about polyglot showboating. But in uncritically citing stylistic advice that discourages internationalising the language, the Orwell crowd still implicitly buttress their own sense of superiority. They say, without having to actually say it: “Stick with me here in the sane United Kingdom, not the wild world beyond our prudent shores.”

In a 1980 essay for the New Statesman magazine, “Tourism Among the Dogs”, Edward Said considered Orwell’s influence on a generation of journalists. The ideal of a professedly stakeless bystanderism, Said argued, could serve to mendaciously neutralise the analyst, veiling the power that “put [them] there in the first place”. He described such a figure, witheringly, as the “obviously concerned reporter who is beyond Left piety or right-wing cant” looking on at the “Asiatic and African mobs rampaging”.

These writers identify with Orwell in part because he invites them to. He assumes that his reader is already in the fold, and, from this position, begins to scold. You are in the straight-talking Saxon camp, he tells them, but from within this camp you need to take a hard look at yourself. The clarity of your language will test the clarity of your moral force.

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Was Orwell actually all that impartial? Certainly his left-wing anti-totalitarianism aligns with prevalent views today. But it’s self-flattery on our part to imagine that he arrived at this position through an objectivity forced by clear language.

For contrast, consider the work of G K Chesterton. I agree with the Catholic apologist on fairly little, and yet the man could write; his concision and wit have much in common with Orwell’s. In his 1909 book, Orthodoxy, Chesterton makes a punchy claim: “I am still as much concerned as ever about the Battle of Armageddon; but I am not so much concerned about the General Election.” Stylistically, Orwell could easily have written this sentence; ideologically, he would rather have died than write it. Later in the book, Chesterton rails against “long comfortable words that save modern people the toil of reasoning”, which could have come straight from Orwell — yet the chapter proceeds to defend a belief in miracles. Orwell was an avowed atheist. Two English men use the aesthetics of impartiality to take opposite stances. They can’t both be objectively right.


When did the Orwell mania start? In 1983 Harper’s magazine ran a cover story titled “If Orwell Were Alive Today”, which argued that the great man would surely have shrugged off his leftist togs and become a neoconservative, given enough time. Ten years later, British prime minister John Major commemorated Orwell’s idealised England of “old maids bicycling to holy communion through the morning mist” in a speech to the Conservative Group for Europe. But it was not until 2002, when Christopher Hitchens published a book about his hero, that the unfettered appreciation of Orwell’s thinking and its expression was raised to an art form.

In Why Orwell Matters, Hitchens painted a picture of a man who was almost always on the right side of history. “It matters not what you think, but how you think,” goes his argument. For Hitchens, Orwell’s independent spirit and moral clarity mark him for praise more than any particular view he held. This is a difficult negative to prove. Hitchens must show not only that Orwell thought particular things, but that he wasn’t put up to it by others.

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In his quest to promote Orwell as a pioneering individualist, Hitchens manages to credit him with an outlandish range of achievements. “It might not be too much to say that the clarity and courage of Orwell’s prose . . . also played a part in making English a non-imperial lingua franca,” he claims. “It would not be too much to say that he pioneered ‘cultural studies’ without giving the subject a name.”

There are indeed some international contexts in which English is seen as the most neutral language (though it is rather an astonishing hop, skip and jump to suggest that this makes it non-imperial). People did indeed engage in what we might consider cultural studies before the term gained currency in the 1960s. Possibly, Orwell played some small part in both developments. But Hitchens is hedging for a reason. It might not be too much to say these things. It also might not be too much to say that Orwell invented the bra and engineered the fall of the Berlin Wall.

Let’s recap what Orwell actually wrote. Between 1933 and 1949 he produced six novels and three works of non-fiction, as well as pamphlets, poetry and journalism. The forgettable first four novels would not still be in print if it weren’t for the famous final two: Animal Farm (1945) and Nineteen Eighty-Four (1949). The non-fiction books are Down and Out in Paris and London (1933), a memoir of middle-class Orwell’s time living in poverty in both cities; The Road to Wigan Pier (1937), whose first half reports on the living conditions in working-class Lancashire and Yorkshire and whose controversial second half examines resistance to socialism among the British middle-class (it is here that Orwell comes out with his much-quoted rant against sandal-wearers, vegetarians and nudists); and Homage to Catalonia (1938), an account of the Spanish civil war.

The essays and journalism most famously argued for democratic socialism and against dictatorship, but they covered an eclectic range of other topics: the ideological underpinnings of boys’ weekly magazines, writing, colonialism in Myanmar, Tolstoy’s reading of Shakespeare, what it means to be English. In “The Lion and the Unicorn: Socialism and the English Genius”, Orwell describes a nostalgic England of “solid breakfasts and gloomy Sundays, smoky towns and winding roads, green fields and red pillar-boxes”. The measure of irony with which he relates all this seems lost on his groupies, as does his rubbishing of the delusion that the English are especially practical, “as they are so fond of claiming for themselves”.

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For all its lapses into sentimentality, the essay is not so naively jingoistic as it is often portrayed. Orwell maintains that England is violating its own principles so long as “the refugees who have sought our shores are penned up in concentration camps, and company directors work out subtle schemes to dodge their Excess Profits Tax”. A reader from a former colony might retort that these are exactly the values they associate with England, but Orwell’s contention is that views of the sort now championed by prominent nationalists betray England’s very nature. Still, even despite the essay’s actual excoriation of English conservatism, the idea people get from selected quotes has contributed to Orwell’s resurgence in an era of neopatriotism.

In an article in The Telegraph this year on Ireland’s “Brexit hypocrisy”, the former Brexit secretary David Frost drew on Orwell’s, “Notes on Nationalism”, citing his comment that, for nationalists, “a known fact may be so unbearable that it is habitually pushed aside . . . or on the other hand it may enter into every calculation and yet never be admitted as a fact”. He then went on to engage in precisely the sort of fair-play positioning that Edward Said outlined.

Frost, the neutral Orwell buff, expressed exasperation that the tricksy Irish, engaged in such “doublethink”, wouldn’t come to some reasonable solution over an immigration dispute. When he wasn’t congratulating himself on his own even-handed restraint, he referred to the largest Irish democratic socialist party as “the Sinn Fein monster” (“Féin” was, of course, printed without its accent, rendering it nonsense in Irish). The British, he wrote, were expected to “put up with” this monster in Belfast, as if voters in Northern Ireland were not themselves citizens participating in a thing called democracy. Frost’s reasoning was sloppy, but quoting Orwell enabled him in that sloppiness, shoring up the nexus between Englishness, rational thinking and truth.

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There are two kinds of proud Englishmen (and it’s nearly always men) who like to brandish Orwell. Both have in common a desire to claim the judicious middle ground and feel with confidence that Orwell is one of their own. But they each want to deploy Orwell in defence of different world views. On one hand are the sentimental patriots like Frost, who use him to shore up their nationalism. On the other are liberals like Hitchens, who use him to reclaim England from the first lot. For the latter group, “true Englishness” is something different, a sensible, cosmopolitan globalism. Because Orwell wrote prolifically over decades on many topics — sometimes changing his mind, as humans are wont to do — all either side really has to do to claim him is catch him in a particular mood.

Consider a 2022 column in The Guardian about the Conservative government’s dangerous posturing on Ukraine, which quoted Orwell on the British “innate distaste” for dramatic flag-waving statements. Ah, the piece continued, but things have changed. Now the crazy people run the show. “If a single Russian toecap steps into Nato territory, there will be war with Nato,” it quoted the former Tory minister Sajid Javid as saying. By contrast, the writer lamented, the old-fashioned English ways of “caution and level-headedness”, of “nuance and calm” and (of course) of “liberal values” were dying out. Such hand-wringing raises a question: what exactly would we rather politicians were saying about Ukraine? The answer is unforthcoming, but whatever Orwell would have said, it seems, would be fine. His spectral presence becomes a substitute for bringing a thought to its conclusion. It is enough to decry the extremity of others, to dismiss it by juxtaposition, framing other voices as hysterical. Not taking a stance becomes a virtue.

This sort of last-sane-man commentator is so common now as to have been parodied by an X account. “Simon Hedges”, aka @Orwell_Fan, embodies the Orwell-quoter: a middle-of-the-road disdainer of strong opinions, a stalwart in a polarised society. The parody was so successful that in 2019, Hedges was mistakenly nominated for the “Civility in Politics Awards”, a prize set up by members of the House of Lords and campaigners seeking to fight a “crisis of trust and crisis of civility”.

When news of the error blew up on social media, the CPA moved Hedges into a hastily invented category of “best parody account” with the comment “fair play Simon”.

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In an interview, the creator of the account said he was parodying political commentators who provide us with no concrete analyses, no clear politics, just rhetoric — a view of the world where “the smart sassy people turn up and make everything OK”. This, in a kernel, is what the Orwell fans want: for their hero to step in and put things right.

Such commentators are not wrong that the world grows ever more difficult and dangerous. But to find a way through the chaos, you need to ask questions that you can’t answer without compromising your neutrality. Why exactly is social democracy a better way? And how should it work in today’s wild world? Calmly telling fascists they’re being rather fascist, when really they should be liberals, is not the devastating rhetorical blow that Simon Hedges thinks it is.


I will admit, under duress, to being a writer. Suffering as I do from this crucial personality flaw, I can sympathise with the hero-worship when I read Orwell’s essay, “Why I Write”. In it, the author is endearingly frank about the main motives for writing, which he sets out as: (i) sheer egoism (“It is humbug to pretend this is not a motive, and a strong one”), (ii) aesthetic enthusiasm (“Above the level of a railway guide, no book is quite free from aesthetic considerations”), (iii) historical impulse (“Desire to see things as they are, to find out true facts and store them up for the use of posterity”) and (iv) political purpose (“Desire to push the world in a certain direction, to alter other people’s idea of the kind of society that they should strive after”). To the latter, Orwell adds: “the more one is conscious of one’s political bias, the more chance one has of acting politically without sacrificing one’s aesthetic and intellectual integrity.”

If we each have an Orwell we relate to, this is mine — the leftwing aesthete who can’t quite reconcile a desire to be useful with a love of form for form’s sake. “So long as I remain alive and well,” he writes, “I shall continue to feel strongly about prose style, to love the surface of the earth, and to take pleasure in solid objects and scraps of useless information. It is no use trying to suppress that side of myself. The job is to reconcile my ingrained likes and dislikes with the essentially public, non-individual activities that this age forces on all of us.” Beautiful. Here, Orwell’s charisma comes from his self-doubt, his wry acceptance of his own limitations, his determination to pick a side, and take a stance, nonetheless.

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It is this Orwell that is lost to us thanks to hagiographies like the one Hitchens wrote. He’s the worst sort of wingman — one who puts you off the guy who could have chatted you up just fine by himself. In his fussy, unfocused book, Hitchens spends much of his time quoting and rebutting scattergun academic criticisms of Orwell, accusing his foes of “first-year [howlers]”. At such moments, one feels Hitchens’ pulsing desire to be considered Orwell’s heir, to have it written that Hitchens, too, matters. A Nation article posthumously obliged him in 2021, though the use of his full name in the headline, “Why Christopher Hitchens Still Matters”, suggests he remains a crumb short of Orwell’s stature.

Orwell “would appear never to have diluted his opinions in the hope of seeing his byline disseminated to the paying customers”, Hitchens asserts. And later: “various authors . . . make the common mistake of blaming [Orwell] for his supposed ‘effect’”. Yet Hitchens’ veneration of Orwell has helped reduce the great writer to a rent-a-quote. Once we no longer admire Orwell for what he believed but for the way he believed it, he becomes a cipher, one of his own “dead metaphors”, and fair play for anyone to use.

I don’t want to lay all the blame at Hitchens’ feet; it might have happened anyway. Writers who want to position themselves as voices of unquestionable reason without saying anything too exact or refutable were always going to find some vehicle for their vanities.

Naoise Dolan is an Irish novelist

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