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For much of its long and fascinating history, Denmark was of little interest to food lovers. Its contribution to world cuisine comprised industrially produced bacon, some nice butter and the endless amusement provided to adventurous culinary travellers by spunk, salty liquorice sweets available in little boxes in every corner store.

In 2003, things changed. A young chef called René Redzepi opened Noma in Copenhagen and led a deeply photogenic movement towards an almost Japanese presentation of ingredients that were exotic and tempting, not because of their price, but because they’d been locally foraged. “New Nordic cuisine” was born, entirely novel and fully disconnected from the classical French canon.

Copenhagen quickly became a destination for a new international Foodie Jet Set. Sure, food lovers had always travelled. Paris, Lyon, Florence or Barcelona had long attracted those interested in the finest executions of the great cuisines of Europe. People would make an effort to go to El Bulli or The French Laundry, but Copenhagen was something new. It sprang into being as a “foodie destination” on no rootstock older than Redzepi’s odd vision.

Noma was recognised early by the two self-appointed arbiters of International Fine Dining. Michelin originally rated food for the French, then naturally became essential for foreign visitors to France and finally pronounced on fine dining across all traditions and all territories. In 2002, the upstart The World’s 50 Best arrived with the bold intention of judging the entire culinary world on their own new criteria of fine dining. Both recognised immediately what was going on in Copenhagen and seized upon it. Ironic, really, considering Noma’s fabulous ethos of hyper-localism, that it should become ground zero for an entirely globalised phenomenon.

Today, Copenhagen is one of the most enjoyable places in the world to eat. It does gastronomy like Florence does art. It seems like every sandwich wagon and corner bakery is run by bright-eyed kids who staged at Noma. The quality of mid-range eating is stupendous and refreshingly international. But here, we are also at the beating heart and the bleeding edge of modern fine dining.

I visited two restaurants in Copenhagen. Koan is run by a Danish/Korean chef and has two Michelin stars. As you may remember from my review this summer, the 17-course tasting menu was exceptional, but readers may recall a discomfitingly assertive upselling of champagne. It was easy to class as modern international fine dining. But did I love it? On balance, no. The effort undermined the pleasure.

Kadeau is a different proposition. On the ground floor of a residential building in the old docks area of Christianshavn, it’s on a seductively humane scale. I counted about a dozen tables and at least as many staff as customers. The kitchen isn’t just “open” but runs continuously into the dining room. There is no stainless steel in sight. In fact, unless you look really closely, there’s no evidence of any professional kit. The chefs work quietly, but there’s a warm buzz creating an unusual atmosphere of very Danish domestic hospitality. This is not what I expected.

The food, foraged from the chefs’ home island of Bornholm, is stellar. Completely unique celebrations of ingredients I had never encountered, in combinations I could never have imagined. Fourteen courses (of course), but also probably a dozen moments of genuine delight. As with any multicourse menu there’s too much to describe in detail but, as an example, I’ve never had a piece of salmon cold smoked first, with cherry wood, then hot smoked just before serving — serving that involves bringing the perfectly formed tail fillet to the table on a board then digging out only the meat from the core and presenting it in a lavender-scented butter broth. The flavour combination is breathtaking, but the understanding of smoke, heat and fish flesh, the depth of knowledge and respect for the ingredients, leaves me lost for words.

To bring raw fjord shrimp to the table would be satisfying enough, but to wrap five of them in separate “leathers” of tomato, rose, cherry leaf, plum and strawberry is both audacious and the work of a fine mind.

The floor staff, individually assigned to tables, present a precise balance of friendly and efficient. I loved it, self-evidently. It was a dining experience that produced joy by any standards or criteria. But with no tablecloths, no fawning, a deliberate informality and careful avoidance of the old-school signifiers or tropes, isn’t this the antithesis of fine dining?

In the absence of an aristocracy to which I can aspire, this is exactly how I imagine a self-made billionaire genius with a social conscience, a disarmingly humble and democratic ethic, a taste for modest Danish/Japanese design and humbling generosity might live and eat, and, God knows, I find myself willing to pay for it — though it comes in close to £500 per head with a couple of glasses of wine. This is going to be as fine a dining experience as I’m ever going to have. It doesn’t “feel” like fine dining, by any of the old standards . . . but it’s only available to a self-selecting set and conforms to a code that increasingly only they can experience and understand. I love it because, uniquely in my experience, it expresses the peak of cooking and the essence of hospitality.

I can’t afford to stay here in Copenhagen, no matter how much I’d like to. I need to get back to London to find out if we can do this at home.

Follow Tim on Instagram @timhayward

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In a world of constant tax policy changes, I find myself inundated with queries from clients increasingly worried about how to plan for their future with confidence.

The most significant talking point at the moment is chancellor Rachel Reeves’ first Budget, due at the end of the month.

Year after year, governments introduce new policies affecting pensions, tax allowances and other frameworks.

These continuous adjustments create uncertainty and make it hard for clients to feel secure in their long-term financial plans.

The constant media speculation just amplifies this anxiety, and it’s happening much more frequently.

For example, in June, prime minister Keir Starmer made a misstatement regarding tax-free cash reductions, which was corrected by the Labour PR machine just hours later.

Headlines that Reeves was being “urged” to reduce tax-free cash do not tell the whole story

The media had already jumped on the story, however, exacerbating concern.

Missteps like this are unfortunate but the 24/7 nature of the media has made the situation worse.

Reporting on opinion from organisations like the Institute for Fiscal Studies just fuels the fire, as seen recently following its suggestion pension tax-free cash may no longer be sustainable.

Headlines that Reeves was being “urged” to reduce tax-free cash do not tell the whole story.

The speculation has led some clients to consider withdrawing their tax-free cash early from a pension regime, despite it not being in their best interest, simply to seek stability.

I’m sure many advisers routinely deal with these sorts of panicked queries.

While politicians and media speculate, we play a key role in providing stability

Many clients, especially those nearing retirement, have felt unsettled about a new left-leaning government, which may not necessarily align with their political views.

Speculative news stories about changes to tax-free cash, inheritance tax (IHT) or even the introduction of a wealth tax are enough to cause panic.

As an adviser, I cannot say such things won’t happen, but I do explain I believe changes as monumental as a wealth tax or even altering IHT (largely unchanged for 40 years) would likely take years to introduce, if they ever happen at all.

Clients begin to wonder if they should act pre-emptively. But it’s important to remind them that even if certain policy changes, like IHT on pensions, were known, the advice might not change.

Short-term revenue gains from frequent changes undermine this goal

Advisers understand not every political shift or proposed tax change will have a direct impact on a client’s long-term goals, and it’s critical to stay focused on the bigger picture.

While politicians and media might speculate, we play a key role in providing stability.

We may not always feel it, but I believe we can nudge policy in the right direction by participating in discussions with institutions like HM Revenue & Customs or the Treasury and through consultation papers.

For instance, the Finance Act at the end of the last tax year abolished the lifetime allowance.

While then-chancellor Jeremy Hunt made the initial decision, input from industry professionals, including myself, helped tweak and adjust the legislation, which could have been worse due to HMRC’s misunderstanding of its implications.

The speculation has led some to consider withdrawing their tax-free cash early, despite it not being in their best interest

That said, amendments to the legislation are still needed.

Our voices need to be heard to ensure policies are crafted with long-term benefits in mind.

Since pension “simplification” in 2006, there have been dozens of other significant changes. This constant tinkering has eroded confidence in pensions for many people. A lack of confidence can leave future generations poorer and more reliant on government support, which could create even bigger problems.

Ultimately, governments should focus on creating stability in tax policies and encouraging people to save for the long term.

Short-term revenue gains from frequent changes undermine this goal. While advisers will continue to help clients stay grounded, a more consistent, thoughtful approach from the government is needed.

Alistair Cunningham is financial planning director at Wingate Financial Plan

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Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.

Financial companies including credit card issuers, banks and payment processors sit on a huge trove of their customers’ data. And they are increasingly seeking to monetise it. Companies including PayPal, Chase US and Revolut are moving to partner with advertisers to offer “transaction-enabled” marketing campaigns.

Meanwhile, customers are increasingly privacy conscious. Clients of UK financial services are also able to ask companies if they are using and storing their personal data, and request copies of this information under the Data Protection Act.

How do you feel about financial companies using your sensitive information to make money? Have you ever sent an access request to your bank or other financial institution asking for details of how they use your data? Have you ever encountered any issues with the use of your information or had a related dispute with a company?

FT Money would like to hear about your experiences. Please contact us in confidence at akila.quinio@ft.com

STRUGGLING pensioners can now start to apply for up to £300 of cash handed out through the Winter Fuel Payment.

Most households do not need to apply and will automatically be paid the cash.

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However, a select group of people who are eligible need to apply in order to get the benefit.

If you live in England or Wales and were born before 23 September 1958, you will automatically receive the Winter Fuel Payment if you receive any of the following benefits:

• Pension Credit
• Universal Credit
• Income Support
• income-related Employment and Support Allowance (ESA)
• income-based Jobseeker’s Allowance (JSA)
• Child Tax Credit
• Working Tax Credit

However, anyone who lives abroad and qualifies for the Winter Fuel Payment will need to apply for it.

You can qualify if you live abroad in certain countries and the following conditions apply:

• You moved to the eligible country before January 1, 2021
• You were born before September 23, 1958
• You have a genuine and sufficient link to the UK – this can include having lived or worked in the UK and having family in the UK

You will need to claim Winter Fuel Payment even if you have got it before. The payment is not made automatically when you live abroad.

The eligible countries you can live in and claim are:

• Austria
• Belgium
• Bulgaria
• Croatia
• Czech Republic
• Denmark
• Estonia
• Finland
• Germany
• Hungary
• Iceland
• Ireland
• Italy
• Latvia
• Liechtenstein
• Lithuania
• Luxembourg
• Netherlands
• Norway
• Poland
• Romania
• Slovakia
• Slovenia
• Sweden
• Switzerland

Postal applications

Anyone living abroad and looking to apply households can now apply via post. You need to fill in the winter fuel payment claim form and post it to the Winter Fuel Payment Centre.

The form is available at gov.uk/winter-fuel-payment/how-to-claim.

The address to post to is:

Winter Fuel Payment Centre
Mail Handling Site A
Wolverhampton
WV98 1ZU
UK

Phone applications

You can also apply for the benefit by phone but not until October 28.

If you think you qualify and want to make an application this way, make a calendar note in your phone.

You will need to phone the Winter Fuel Payment Centre on +44 (0)191 218 7777.

When will the Winter Fuel Payment be made?

Most payments are made automatically in November or December.

If you qualify, you’ll get a letter telling you:

• How much you’ll get
• Which bank account it will be paid into

Payments are £200 for eligible households or £300 for eligible households where someone is aged over 80.

Deadline for claims

If you do not get a letter or the money has not been paid into your account by January 29, 2025,  contact the Winter Fuel Payment Centre.

The deadline for you to make a claim for winter 2024 to 2025 is 31 March 2025.

Applying for Pension Credit

You will qualify for the Winter Fuel Payment if you qualify for selected means-tested benefits, most notably Pension Credit.

Hundreds of thousands of households are eligible for this benefit but aren’t claiming and are now set to miss out on the Winter Fuel Payment as a result.

You will need to have been claiming Pension Credit in the ‘qualifying week’ of 16 to 22 September 2024.

However, claims can be backdated by three months meaning you have until December 21 to make a claim and still get the Winter Fuel Payment.

Pension Credit tops up your weekly income to £218.15 if you are single or to £332.95 if you have a partner.

If your income is lower than this, you’re very likely to be eligible for the benefit.

However, if your income is slightly higher, you might still be eligible for pension credit if you have a disability, you care for someone, you have savings or you have housing costs.

You could get an extra £81.50 a week if you have a disability or claim any of the following:

• Attendance allowance
• The middle or highest rate from the care component of disability living allowance (DLA)
• The daily living component of personal independence payment (PIP)
• Armed Forces independence payment
• The daily living component of adult disability payment (ADP) at the standard or enhanced rate.

You could get the “savings credit” part of pension credit if both of the following apply:

• You reached State Pension age before April 6, 2016
• You saved some money for retirement, for example, in a personal or workplace pension

This part of the pension credit is worth £17.01 for single people or £19.04 for couples.

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Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.

There has been only one trading day this week in China. But no matter: that one day more than made up all the losses for this year.

Global investors are betting on China for a rebound, more than three years after they shunned the market as regulatory crackdowns hit the country’s biggest tech groups. Chinese markets are closed for most of the week for the so-called Golden Week holiday, as the country celebrates the 75th anniversary of the founding of the People’s Republic. On the last day of trade before the holidays on Monday, the benchmark large-cap CSI 300 index rose 8.5 per cent, joining in the festive mood with the biggest daily gain since 2008.

Still, investor sentiment remains fragile, especially among foreign investors. Industrial profits at large Chinese companies fell 17.8 per cent August, their first decline in five months, reflecting the ongoing economic slowdown. Producer prices have been falling since 2022, adding to deflation concerns.

That is reflected in the stock market: the CSI 300 index trades at just 12 times forward earnings, a significant discount to global peers. Earlier this year, that figure for the Shanghai Stock Exchange hit its lowest level in a decade.

Even at rock-bottom valuations, investors have continued to stay away. Over the past three years, shares have fallen 45 per cent peak to trough. During this time, investors have been disappointed as every small rebound was followed by a bigger decline. A revival in domestic demand — consumption accounts for more than half of China’s GDP — remains the biggest hurdle to reviving investor confidence and starting a lasting recovery for Chinese stocks.

The difference now is that the weakness in economic data had become too serious for Beijing to ignore. As recent data moved further away from the goal of 5 per cent growth this year, Beijing has made a rare, aggressive pledge to support an economic recovery through stimulus efforts, including $114bn in new funding facilities for stock purchases and cuts in borrowing costs. Given the ongoing property sector downturn, it is unlikely that economic data has bottomed. That means yet more government support measures can be expected in the coming months.

That may not be enough to win over battered foreign investors. But it will help bring back more retail investors — 200mn locals who account for 80 per cent of the total trading volume. That should at least be enough to give depressed markets a decent, near-term boost.

june.yoon@ft.com