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Greenpeace legal challenge to Rosebank oil field given go-ahead

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Greenpeace legal challenge to Rosebank oil field given go-ahead
PA Media An oil platform standing amongst other rigs that have been left in the Cromarty Firth near Invergordon in the Highlands of Scotland.PA Media

Greenpeace and Uplift have launched legal challenges over drilling in the North Sea

A legal challenge over the decision to give consent to the UK’s largest untapped oil field has been given the go-ahead by the Court of Session.

Greenpeace and Uplift jointly brought judicial reviews to stop the development of Rosebank oil field and the Jackdaw gas field.

The environment groups say that when consent was granted for the fields off Shetland and Aberdeen, the impact of emissions caused by burning extracted oil and gas was “unlawfully ignored” by regulators.

If the challenge is successful, operators would have to resubmit environmental assessments for approval before drilling can begin.

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The cases will heard by the Court of Session in Edinburgh on 12 November.

Uplift accused regulators of “failing to be transparent” in granting the licences and said Rosebank would damage the sea life in the North Sea.

Tessa Khan, climate lawyer and executive director of Uplift, said: “Rosebank is a bad deal for Britain so it’s a relief that the arguments against it will now get a fair hearing in court.

“Now the government accepts the decision to approve the field was unlawful, the oil and gas companies that own Rosebank are alone in trying to drive this disastrous project through court.”

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The UK government said in August that it would not fight any cases over Rosebank and Jackdaw.

This came after the Supreme Court ruled in June that regulators, such as the North Seas Transition Authority (NSTA), must consider the total environmental impact of new projects – including the way fossil fuels are used by end consumers.

These are known as Scope 3 emissions.

The Supreme Court’s decision could still be challenged by oil companies, but Greenpeace said the UK government’s unwillingness to defend the cases is “tacit acceptance” that the consent is unlawful.

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map of oil fields

Greenpeace’s climate team leader, Mel Evans, said: “Both the government and the Supreme Court agree that you cannot ignore the emissions generated from burning fossil fuels.

“Equinor and Ithaca know this, and they know that the consents for these fields are unlawful.

“Despite this they are continuing to develop them during this judicial review, putting people, marine life, and our climate at further risk.”

Norwegian energy giant Equinor and British firm Ithaca Energy jointly own the Rosebank field.

They said it would create about 1,600 jobs during its construction and support about 450 UK-based jobs during its lifetime.

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Consent for drilling off the coast of Shetland was granted in September last year.

Shell’s proposals to develop Jackdaw, east of Aberdeen, were approved in 2022 after initially being rejected on environmental grounds.

Net-zero target

The Scottish government has said it has a “presumption against” new oil and gas exploration.

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However, First Minister John Swinney said in June that it would still be needed “for a period of time” to help the country meet its net-zero targets by 2045.

The UK government has pledged that oil and gas would play an important role in the economy “for decades to come” as the UK transitions to clean energy.

It is planning to consult later this year on its manifesto position not to issue new oil and gas licences to explore new fields.

The NSTA said it would not comment on a live case.

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A spokesperson for Equinor also declined to comment, but added they were continuing to “work closely with all relevant parties to progress the project”.

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The Execution of Death Row Inmate Marcellus Williams

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The Execution of Death Row Inmate Marcellus Williams

Marcellus Williams was executed by the state of Missouri on Tuesday, Sept. 24, despite concerns citing his potential innocence. Williams died by lethal injection shortly after 6 p.m. at a Missouri state prison in Bonne Terre, St. Francois County. He was 55 years old.

In the aftermath of his death, there has been widespread condemnation, especially since the execution was not supported by the prosecution nor the victim’s family.

Williams was convicted and sentenced to death in 2001 for the 1998 murder of Felicia Gayle, a social worker and well-known St. Louis Post-Dispatch reporter, who was killed in her home.

The St. Louis County Prosecuting Attorney’s Office urged officials and courts to call off the execution over concerns regarding the trial’s jury selection (the vast majority of the jury was white) and potential racial bias—Williams was Black, while Gayle was white. Furthermore, DNA evidence did not tie Williams to the murder.

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“Even for those who disagree on the death penalty, when there is a shadow of a doubt of any defendant’s guilt, the irreversible punishment of execution should not be an option,” St. Louis County’s Prosecuting Attorney Wesley Bell said in a statement, according to the New York Times.

Governor of Missouri Mike Parson and the Missouri state Supreme Court denied and rejected multiple efforts to prevent the execution, including clemency pleas from Williams’ lawyers, members of the victim’s family, and the prosecution, as well as letters from from The NAACP. and the Council on American-Islamic Relations.

On Sept. 24, the U.S. Supreme Court denied a stay of execution.

Missouri Execution
Deacon Dave Billips, with the Office of Peace and Justice with the St. Louis Archdiocese, holds a sign as he protests the execution of Marcellus Williams on Sept. 24, 2024, outside the Carnahan Courthouse in St. Louis. Laurie Skrivan/St. Louis Post-Dispatch—AP

In the aftermath of Williams’ execution there has been an outcry from the public due to the doubts over his conviction, especially since it was reported in August that a new development showed that the knife used in the murder was believed to have been contaminated by DNA from a prosecutor and investigator working on the case.

Williams’ poetry and writings have been shared virally on social media. One document, which has been corroborated by publications such as  Newsweek, shows Williams’ handwritten “final statement” before his death, which reads, “All Praise Be to Allah in Every Situation!!!” 

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Many have also shared his poetry, which had been featured in multiple online journals and the Kansas City Star.

In the lead up to, and in the aftermath of Williams’ death, many advocates also have pointed to his story as not an isolated moment—but as indicative of a greater narrative of racial injustice in the criminal justice system.

Various criminal justice advocates and politicians are also calling for the end of the death penalty, including Representative Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez, Missouri Representative Cori Bush, and Derrick Johnson, CEO of the NAACP.

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“The state of Missouri and our nation’s legal system failed Marcellus Williams, and as long as we uphold the death penalty, we continue to perpetuate this depravity,” Bush said in a statement on Tuesday night after Williams’ execution.

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Send your rising stars to work elsewhere ⭐️

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Hello and welcome back to Working It.

I talk to a lot of leaders, in a bid to stay “ahead of the curve” and hear what’s on their minds. These meetings are not just about good ideas and premium biscuits 🍪. I also enjoy the unexpected ways that life comes full circle.

In 2022, I went with my Most Successful Friend (as her “plus one”) to a new event: Anthropy at the Eden Project in Cornwall. It was an invigorating experiment: a coming-together of leaders from business, charities, government and beyond, to work on a blueprint of positive changes for Britain after Covid. Think Davos, but in a biome. And without the tiered ticketing structure/crazy egos.

I was in at the start (such a trendsetter 😎). Many more people have since got involved — if you’re interested, the next, much bigger, Anthropy conference is in March 2025. This week, I finally met its founder, John O’Brien, to talk about leadership and connection. (No biscuits, though).

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Isabel Berwick and John O’Brien
Not at the Eden Project. Yet.

Read on for the many benefits of younger people joining boards (PSA: “young” in board terms is 40 something.) And in Office Therapy we advise someone feeling left out at work. We’ve all been there 😥.

Send your stars out to shine as Neds (or become one yourself) 🙋🏽‍♂️

Why not encourage your talented executives to become non-executive directors (Neds) in another organisation? That’s the most original staff retention and career development idea* I’ve heard in a long while. It comes from Warren Partners’ Sally Dunwoody**, a specialist headhunter for leaders in financial services companies.

Sally told me: “If you offer someone who has an executive role the chance to be a non-exec in an organisation that does not compete with what they are doing, it is a great development opportunity for them and you will keep them. You will retain them, they will be trained in a whole range of skills that will be very useful to your business, and you won’t be paying for that training — someone else is.”💡

Even better, Sally said: “[Neds] immediately have access to, say, six other people from the board they are serving on, plus the rest of the company they are working with, plus their resources. All that brings a ton of extras to your business and access to people and places who can coach, mentor and help.”

Generally, serving executives will only have the time to take on one Ned role. What sort of person, I asked Sally, is likely to be a candidate for a Ned role? “You’d be in a broad business role — probably starting to be a functional specialist, so you are probably in finance or marketing, business development or HR. Tech in particular is good — anything to do with tech or data — or a general manager.” For the new generation of Neds, you’re probably at the stage of “ExCo or ExCo minus one”.

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The biggest barrier to executives taking on a role elsewhere might not be an unsupportive boss, but age. According to the latest (2023) Spencer Stuart Board Index, the average age of Neds in the UK is 60.9 years: “Female Neds are slightly younger on average (59.3 years) than their male counterparts (62.5).” Boards are proving surprisingly stubborn about recruiting younger people — even those with relevant experience. The very youngest Neds are likely to be in their mid-40s.

It’s something that needs to change, especially now that many companies have four or five generations in the workplace (as discussed here last week). As Sally pointed out: “You need people who are younger round the board table as they can help shift the debate away from ‘this is how we have always done it’ and also they can help ‘get the customer in the board room’. Think about a payday loan business, for example — how many of their board members have ever been in the situation of needing that service?”

There are also plenty of programmes aimed at supporting people into board positions — Warren Partners, for example, has a Board Fellowship Programme that connects FTSE 250 companies with talented people from minority backgrounds. Women on Boards offers networking and training opportunities. And, *declaring an interest*, the FT Board Director Programme offers a diploma for aspiring Neds in the UK and Asia. (Tell me any others you have taken part in, or run, and we will mention them here.)

What can you do to improve your own chances of finding a non-executive position? Thinking several years ahead will help — whether you’re thinking of doing it alongside a corporate job, or as part of a transition to a portfolio career. Becoming a school governor, or a trustee of a charity, are good first steps. Sally’s advice: “Do something that speaks to you, so you lean into it properly and give it the energy and passion it deserves.”

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*Got more ideas for expanding the Ned pool 🌊? Email me: isabel.berwick@ft.com

**I first met Sally many years ago, on a campsite in France ⛺️. We reconnected recently, creating another “full circle” moment.

This week on the Working It podcast

Burnout is a huge issue, but very ill-defined — and there’s even more confusion about how to prevent and treat it. Into this void comes the expert voice of this week’s guest on the Working It podcast, Dr Audrey Tang. Audrey is a psychologist, coach and award-winning author. We recorded our talk earlier this month, live on stage at the FT Weekend Festival.

Listen in for tips on spotting early warning signs of burnout in yourself, and in colleagues, and learn how to keep yourself afloat when you are working in a dysfunctional organisation. Lots of great audience questions, too 🏆.

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Office Therapy

The problem: I recently found out by chance that I had not been invited to a select workplace dinner. When I heard, I felt like I was in the playground and nobody wanted to play with me. It was pure humiliation and later I was furious. I’m over it but I’m curious: why was my response physical — and how best to deal with “bruises” to our status🤕?

Isabel’s advice: I decided not to answer this myself because my reaction was visceral. It took me back to that moment when I realised my daughter was the only one in the friendship group not invited to the Alpha Girl’s birthday party. It sucks 🤬.

Here’s the rather more impartial (and more impressive) Ben Tye, CEO at digital transformation consultancy Gate One, and also a psychotherapist and executive coach:

“Ouch, I feel for you. Rejection hurts, and being excluded is a powerful form of othering that can bring up feelings of shame, impotent anger and rage.

“It’s telling that you describe an intense physical reaction and feeling like you were back in the playground with no one wanting to play with you. We all carry what’s called our ‘inner child’ within us. It’s a way of describing the younger parts of ourselves that can sometimes emerge during stressful or traumatic situations. In psychological terms, it’s a form of regression when an experience can suddenly take us back to feeling very young and vulnerable.

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“Be good to yourself, acknowledge the pain of being excluded and find a way to be kind to yourself on the day of the dinner. Maybe have one of your own with friends, family and people you love, who love you in return? Finally, if you experience this regularly, you might consider working with a psychodynamic coach or a psychotherapist to work through what is happening and address whatever is there.”

*Got a workplace problem for Office Therapy? Big, small — we tackle them all. Send to isabel.berwick@ft.com. We anonymise everything.

🚨 Office Therapy will be alternating here with the extremely popular “Dear Jonathan” careers advice column by Jonathan Black. Send your career dilemmas to dear.jonathan@ft.com.

Five top stories from the world of work

  1. Uber’s next act: taking on Amazon. Newly profitable Uber is in the business of expansion — a great case study on corporate ambition from Yasemin Craggs Mersinoglu and Camilla Hodgson. Is it really going to turn into the “operating system for your everyday life”?

  2. The office is not the only solution: Amazon CEO Andy Jassy sent the “return to office” debate into overdrive when he announced that he wanted workers back at their desks five days a week. Emma Jacobs asks how something as boring as the office ended up being such a hot topic.

  3. Young women are starting to leave young men behind: Women are making strides in education and workplaces, but the more startling thing is that some young men are actively disengaged — and their prospects are going backwards. A worrying data trends piece from John Burn-Murdoch.

  4. Get a grip: why has the UK’s Labour government been so bad at politics? A classic tale of dysfunctional office politics, except this time they are governing the UK. Jim Pickard and Lucy Fisher investigate.

  5. PwC average UK partner pay falls to £862,000 as sales growth stalls: No further commentary needed, but PwC is the first of the Big Four to report results, says Simon Foy.

One more thing . . .

If you’ve ever wanted to look more “put together” in your clothing choices, or have felt you don’t really “get” fashion 🤷🏼‍♀️, please read “How I Lost (and Found) My Style at 67“, by Cathy Horyn in The Cut. What will make you feel instantly better is that Cathy is a fashion critic. If she has been uncertain about what to wear, what hope for the rest of us? It’s also a great example of positive ageing — embracing change and making the most of it. (Yes, this is a piece aimed at women — but there are many universal lessons.)

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This week’s giveaway

OK, I lied, not a giveaway . . . but a big NY-based future of work conference that’s free to join online. Charter’s Workplace Summit 2024 is on October 8. Register here and join Charter co-founders Kevin Delaney and Erin Grau and other top names on leadership and the future of work. Sessions that caught my eye include JPMorgan’s head of AI on how humans and AI can best work together.

A word from the Working It community . . . 

The newsletter on the benefits of journaling about working life brought in interesting replies, including a couple of readers who questioned the ownership of such artefacts. If you are writing down who said what in meetings . . . does it belong to your employer as evidence if something goes bad 🤢? I will investigate (do send me your expert thoughts).

But my favourite email came from Trigvie Robbins-Jones, known as Trig, a director at PwC. He wrote: “I do something similar in cartoon form because work is too funny to be taken seriously”. I agree, but Trig actually draws his thoughts. And they are brilliant. He’s got a blog, or follow him on LinkedIn, where he posts professional-life-adjacent strips that will lighten your feed when it gets bloated with earnest posts from self-promoters and overcaffeinated conference attendees 😱.

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Major update on mortgage prisoners as judge makes ruling in TSB case

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Major update on mortgage prisoners as judge makes ruling in TSB case

THOUSANDS of borrowers who claim they are ‘mortgage prisoners’ have been ruled against by a high court judge.

The case was brought forward by former Northern Rock mortgage holders who claim TSB Bank charged them unfair interest rates on their “Whistletree” mortgages.

Northern Rock mortgage holders have been dealt another blow

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Northern Rock mortgage holders have been dealt another blowCredit: Alamy

The borrowers claim they have been stuck paying a standard variable rate (SVR) 2.29% higher than TSB’s own rate, in some cases for up to eight years.

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The bank opposed the claims, and said that charging borrowers different rates is a basic feature of the mortgage market.

In the ruling, Judge Nicholas Thompsell said TSB has not breached the terms of the borrowers’ mortgage contracts.

The case, led by borrowers’ lawyer Tim Lord KC, focused on Northern Rock customers whose mortgages were transferred to TSB after the bank collapsed in 2008. 

Lord argued that many customers were unable to switch to cheaper rates or move to another lender because stricter mortgage rules introduced in 2014 meant they couldn’t pass new affordability checks. 

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He claimed this left them mortgage prisoners, with TSB “disproportionately profiting” from the situation.

But TSB, represented by Sonia Tolaney KC, said the bank offers different products to customers with varying risk profiles, and that this was “neither surprising nor unfair.”

In his 49-page ruling, Judge Thompsell agreed, stating that TSB was following the same SVR Northern Rock had previously applied. 

He ruled that the rate, now called the ‘Whistletree SVR’, is simply a continuation of the original rate and that TSB was acting within the terms of the mortgage contracts.

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Following the ruling, a TSB spokesperson said: “We welcome the court’s decision today, which recognises that TSB acted in accordance with the terms of Whistletree mortgage contracts.”

TSB to close another 36 bank branches and axe 250 jobs – full list of locations affected

TSB added that more than two-thirds of affected customers had switched to a new mortgage product or settled their mortgages since 2016.

The borrowers lost this round but their legal team isn’t giving up. 

Matthew Patching, a partner at law firm Harcus Parker, said: “Our clients are disappointed with the result, but are looking forward to progressing their claims to the next stage.”

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A further hearing is expected to take place in the case.

How is the aftermath of Northen Rock still being felt?

Mum of four and self-employed hairdresser has had to pay more than £91,000 extra on her mortgage since 2008

Mortgage prisoner Rebecca Wendel is currently paying 9.79% interest on her home loan.

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This means that her mortgage bill is £2,150 a month, which is up from £1,049 in August 2022, when she was still paying over the market rate at 6.75%.

Since the collapse of Northern Rock in 2008, which saw her loan sold to Heliodor Mortgages, part of Topaz Finance, she has been paying excessive amounts.

Sadly this is not uncommon, with Rebecca making up just one of 200,000 homeowners who had their mortgages sold to finance companies, which have continued to charge above market rates for the loans.

As a result, these people have become known as mortgage prisoners because the stricter lending restrictions mean they cannot pass affordability checks which would allow them to access lower rates.

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What is a mortgage prisoner?

A mortgage prisoner is a homeowner who is unable to switch to a better mortgage deal, even though they are keeping up to date on their payments. 

Mortgage prisoners are often trapped with their existing mortgage, paying more money than they need to. 

This is because when an introductory mortgage rate ends, the borrower typically moves on to the lender’s SVR, which is usually more expensive than the previous rate.

In 2021, the Financial Conduct Authority (FCA) estimated that there were 47,000 mortgage prisoners in the UK.

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When does Legoland Windsor close in 2024? Tickets, prices and location

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Legoland first opened in 1996

LEGOLAND Windsor is open for almost half the year, before it eventually shuts for the winter.

However, the park opens back up in October to welcome guests for Brick and Treat. Here’s everything you need to know about the event.

Legoland first opened in 1996

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Legoland first opened in 1996Credit: Getty Images
Legoland reopens for its Halloween event Brick or Treat

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Legoland reopens for its Halloween event Brick or TreatCredit: Legoland

What is Legoland Windsor?

Legoland Windsor is part of the Lego group and operated by Merlin Entertainment.

Initially opened on March 17, 1996, the much-loved attraction has more than 55 rides and attractions inside.

Ideal for families with children between the ages of 2 and 12, the theme park even has Lego-themed hotels and live shows and entertainment.

When does Legoland Windsor close in 2024?

Legoland Windsor normally opens in March to welcome guests for the summer, before it winds down operations for the winter.

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In 2024, the park opened on March 15 before closing up for the winter period on September 25.

However, the park reopens to welcome guests for special events and festive activities over the winter.

The theme park has a lot of unique Halloween attractions

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The theme park has a lot of unique Halloween attractionsCredit: Matt Crossick- Legoland

What is the Brick or Treat Festival and when is it?

One event that the park reopens for is Legoland Windsor’s Brick or Treat which takes place between October 1 to November 3rd, 2024.

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The event sees Legoland Windsor undergo a spooky transformation and features attractions that are unique to Brick or Treat.

Monster Street and The Monster Jam Show are particular favourites for guests.

Monster Street is a walkthrough experience, which features LEGO monsters and ghouls.

The Monster Jam Show is a thrilling concert experience, filled with costumes and music.

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Brick and Treat isn’t the only event at that Legoland Windsor reopens for.

The park reopens on certain dates in December to welcome guests for Christmas.

What is the address for Legoland Windsor and how do I get there?

The much-loved resort is located in Windsor, just west of London.

Its full address is Winkfield Road, Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 4AY.

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For those travelling by car, these are the best routes:

  • M3: exit at Junction 3
  • M25 Northbound (Clockwise): exit at Junction 13
  • M4: exit at Junction 6

Parking is not included in the ticket.

Legoland Windsor is well-connected by public transport, with trains taking half an hour from London Paddington to Windsor via Slough, or from London Waterloo in under an hour which goes direct to Windsor.

Legoland Windsor Factbox

Here’s everything you need to know about visiting Legoland Windsor in 2024:

  • Legoland Windsor will be officially open from March 15, 2024, to September 25, 2024
  • Located in Windsor, just west of London, the theme park’s full address is Winkfield Road, Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 4AY
  • Trains take half an hour from London Paddington to Windsor via Slough
  • Trains from London Waterloo take around an hour and go directly to Windsor
  • Tickets should be booked in advance online
  • An online saver ticket costs £35 per adult, saving you £33 if you purchased the same ticket at the gate
  • Parking is not included in the ticket, and you’ll need to pay £8 for a ticket, although booking in advance will save you £1

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Michael Gove to replace Fraser Nelson as Spectator

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Michael Gove to replace Fraser Nelson as Spectator

Former Conservative cabinet minister Michael Gove has been appointed editor of The Spectator following the purchase of the current affairs magazine by Sir Paul Marshall.

Fraser Nelson will leave the current affairs magazine after 15 years as editor, but will continue to write for it as an associate editor which he said was on the request of Gove.

Meanwhile former Spectator (1984-1990) and Telegraph editor Charles Moore will become non-executive chairman after the departure of Andrew Neil.

Moore has been given a specific remit to “safeguard the editorial independence and soul of the magazine during its expansion”.

Gove had previously been tipped as a potential editor of The Spectator when it was rumoured that his former employer Rupert Murdoch might be in the running to buy it.

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Before becoming an MP in 2004, Gove spent eight years at The Times as leader writer, comment editor, news editor, assistant editor and Saturday editor. He started his career as a trainee reporter for The Press and Journal in Aberdeen.

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He also contributed to The Spectator and later began writing for The Times again in 2016 after a failed bid to be Conservative leader. Gove stepped down as an MP this year after stints as justice secretary, environment secretary and levelling up secretary.

Part of his time in cabinet was served under Boris Johnson – himself a former editor of The Spectator between 1999 and 2005.

Gove will begin at The Spectator on 4 October, pending approval from the Advisory Committee on Business Appointments (Acoba) which vets new appointments for former cabinet ministers.

Fraser Nelson says Michael Gove is ‘clear successor’

Writing for The Spectator website, Nelson described Gove as “in many ways… the clear successor”.

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“He’s a first-class journalist who took a detour into politics and not (as so often happens) the other way around. He was my news editor when I was a young reporter at the Times and even then he was writing Spectator cover stories and being tipped as a future editor. His hinterland, love of mischief, intellectual depth, energy, sense of humour and – most importantly – love of good writing make him perfect for the job.

“Having known him for so long, I know (for example) that he first declared his ambition to edit The Spectator in an Aberdeen classroom at the age of seven. Now, aged 57, he has made it. He might have taken a circuitous route but his experience, combined with his journalistic skills and the quality of the Spectator team around him, will make for quite a potent combination. Perhaps most importantly, he’s also from the north-east of Scotland.”

Speaking on a panel for the British Society of Magazine Editors less than a week ago, Nelson said the relationship between editor and proprietor should be “no relationship at all”.

“The editor is backed or sacked but never second guessed, never steered,” he said, adding that Marshall “obviously likes us, he paid £100m for us – but I should be having no contact with him. In the same way I had no contact with the Barclays when they owned The Spectator. I think in 15 years they spoke to me about ten times.”

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Nelson added that editors should “actively ignore” suggestions from proprietors and that: “If you get sacked for it, you get sacked for it – but you hold the line. Famous last words.”

Fraser Nelson sits in a chair holding up a copy of The Spectator magazine. He's wearing a blazer and a shirt with no tie and appears to be mid-sentence
Fraser Nelson at a British Society of Magazine Editors event on 19 September 2024. Picture: David Cotter for BSME

GB News investor Marshall bought the nearly 200-year-old magazine for £100m through his company Old Queen Street Ventures Limited, which also publishes online magazine Unherd, earlier this month.

Unherd editor-in-chief and OQS chief executive Freddie Sayers also became publisher of The Spectator and its sister art magazine Apollo in the deal, making him responsible for the magazine’s overall strategy.

Nelson described Sayers as a friend and said: “The success of our American and Australian editions – as well as our broadcasts, emails and first-class online commentary – has the basis of something that can be far bigger. That’s how Sir Paul sees it and Freddie will now be leading the work to make it happen: in our magazines, broadcasts and online.”

Old Queen Street Ventures has said it “will prioritise investing in journalism, talent and the latest technology, with the aim of building a strong future for The Spectator and supporting it to reach new audiences” especially in North America and the Anglosphere.

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Sayers said Nelson “leaves the magazine modernised, digitised and with more readers than ever before”.

Of Gove, Sayers added: “Alongside his political and journalistic nous, Michael brings a love of books, philosophy, art, opera — and a mischievous sense of humour. He is perfectly suited to the role, and I can’t wait to work together.”

Matthew d’Ancona, who edited The Spectator from 2006 to 2009, said Nelson had a “magnificent editorship” and called Gove an “inspired choice” to follow him.

Lord Moore said of his own appointment: “The Spectator thrives because of its free spirit and editorial independence.

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“Having been continuously associated with the paper for more than a fifth of its nearly 200-year history, I am honoured to have been asked to be its Chairman. I look forward to its future being even greater than its past.”

New Spectator editor Michael Gove has called journalism ‘the best job in the world’

Speaking in 2018, when he was still an MP, Gove said: “In making the switch from reporting to politics I left a profession that I loved and admired for a complex of reasons.

“But one of the reasons why I love and admire journalism is that politicians, rather like nappies, have to be changed often and generally for the same reason.

“But while politicians are dispensable in a democracy, one thing is indispensable and that is a free press.”

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A few years earlier he described being a journalist as “the best job in the world” because it “allows you to indulge your curiosity like nothing else. 

“All of us want to know more about the world we live in. All of us have got passions, whether it’s sport, arts, politics – whatever it might be. And all of us are bursting to know more about the things that we care about. 

“But so often in life you’re circumscribed from being able to ask those questions – sometimes you don’t have the access, sometimes it’s just plain rude… being able to ask those questions isn’t just the most fantastic fun. It also is a critical public service.”

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Email pged@pressgazette.co.uk to point out mistakes, provide story tips or send in a letter for publication on our “Letters Page” blog

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Business

Amazon warriors at Dior, and Saint Laurent looks to Yves’ own wardrobe

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Unlock the Editor’s Digest for free

When Dior designer Maria Grazia Chiuri told journalists before the show that the performance artist and archer SAGG Napoli would be shooting arrows along the catwalk, there was a flicker of concern. Would the front row have to duck for cover?

Fortunately, though Napoli opened the spring/summer 2025 show in dramatic fashion by taking to the catwalk in a one-shoulder leotard and gladiator-like skirt made of strips, accessorised with a huge bow and quiver of arrows, she fired at her target down a clear plastic tunnel along the middle of the catwalk.

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Of course, Dior owners LVMH were never going to let someone practise archery unfettered, not least when the front row included Brigitte Macron and Queen Sonja of Norway. Still, it made for an impressive spectacle, and enabled Dior to eke out a little more of the Olympic feelgood factor from the summer’s Paris games, for which LVMH were sponsors.

A model on a catwalk wearing dark skirt and boots, and a one-shouldered white blouse
At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired by the mythology of the Amazon woman . . . 
A model on a catwalk wearing a white skirt with zipped front, teamed with over-the-knee black socks and one-shoulder black sleevless top
 . . . as well as an asymmetric 1951 day dress by founder Christian Dior and references to Wonder Woman

The Dior show on Tuesday marked the first major day of Paris Fashion Week, along with Kering-owned Saint Laurent in the evening. Both heritage houses were reflecting on womanhood. At Dior, Chiuri said she was inspired by “the mythology of the Amazon woman and how it’s part of our culture”, hence the archery, while at Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello was exploring who the Saint Laurent woman is.

Pinned to the moodboard backstage at Dior were images of an asymmetric 1951 day dress by house founder Christian Dior called the Amazone, a vintage picture of Wonder Woman, a statue of Diana, the Roman goddess of hunting, and a graphic Dior Sport logo from 1962.

These different strands of inspiration were woven together in a collection that explored strength, the ways in which femininity is performed, and rethinking classic Dior looks to allow for more freedom and movement. Chiuri said: “The relationship with the body is the work of design.”

A model on a catwalk wearing knee-length black and white culottes, bra top and asymmetric black and white coat
It was a largely monochromatic collection, with a sporty focus, featuring bomber jackets . . . 
A model on a catwalk wearing sequinned leotard
 . . . and leotards with glittering fringes worn with gladiator-boot trainers

It was a largely monochromatic collection, with a sporty focus. One-shoulder tops appeared frequently, presumably in an allusion to the notion that Amazon warrior women cut one breast to make archery easier. Leotards, blazers and shirts came with a single shoulder strap or an exposed shoulder, while leotards with glittering fringes were worn with gladiator-boot trainers. Other utilitarian designs included wide black cargo pants, little bomber jackets with straps and buckles, and jogging bottoms with stripes down the side, but it was a shame not to see more of the elegance and structure with which Dior is synonymous.

A model on a catwalk wearing a beige, baggy men’s style suit with shirt, tie and dark-framed glasses
At Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello wanted to reflect the different facets of the Saint Laurent woman . . .  © Alessandro Lucioni
A model on a catwalk wearing a dark, baggy men’s style suit with shirt, tie and dark-framed glasses
 . . . starting with a series of tailored outfits inspired by the business look of the 1980s © Alessandro Lucioni

There was more of an emphasis on tailoring this season at Saint Laurent, where Vaccarello said backstage that he had listened to an interview with Yves Saint Laurent himself from the early 2000s, in which the late founder said that the Saint Laurent woman is him. So Vacarello took this literally, reinterpreting the kinds of suits, trenchcoats, shirts and ties worn by Yves, for women. The backstage moodboard was covered in photos of Yves, including one in the same pose as a sketch by Andy Warhol, and even fabric samples of tie prints.

This wasn’t the slinky tuxedo tailoring synonymous with Saint Laurent, but more an early ’80s business look. Models walked around an open-air circular catwalk slicked with raindrops, wearing oversized jackets, many double-breasted, with wide-leg trousers in shades of charcoal, sand and beige, teamed with striped shirts and patterned ties.

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The ties had an endearingly retro feel to them, recalling everyone from Wall Street execs to less ambitious office workers, and were crying out to be accessorised with huge cordless 1980s phones. This was power dressing, yes, but giving off inner confidence rather than “greed is good” vibes. The styling was key to making this look feel fresh: cuffs were rolled up to reveal blingy bangles, and aviator-style glasses and visor sunglasses added some je ne sais quoi.

A model on a catwalk wearing a turquoise and orange mini skirt with purple broderie jacket
The final section of the Saint Laurent show included looks in tangerine, sunflower yellow and emerald green . . .  © Alessandro Lucioni
A model on a catwalk wearing a frilled orange mini skirt and shiny brocade jacket
. . . that referenced the house’s maximal designs from the early 1990s © Alessandro Lucioni

But behind the catwalk gloss and a front row that included Catherine Deneuve, Carla Bruni, Gwyneth Paltrow and Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu, who plays Sylvie in Emily in Paris, the figures have been less convincing recently. Saint Laurent’s revenues were down 7 per cent on a comparable basis at €1.4bn in the first half of the year, part of an overall slowdown at parent company Kering. But this was a strong show and underlined that Saint Laurent has a coherence to its image that many brands can only dream of.

Vaccarello was keen to reflect the different facets of the Saint Laurent woman, naming each look after one of the brand’s muses, and the final section took an about-turn with “an explosion of crazy colours” such as tangerine, sunflower yellow and emerald green, as he referenced the house’s maximal designs from the early 1990s and questioned notions of taste. “I saw a Saint Laurent look in 1993 where at the end of the show the model had a green shirt with black lace,” Vaccarello said. “We think of the 1990s as Helmut Lang and Ann Demeulemeester and minimalism but he [Yves Saint Laurent] never gave up that overdressed woman.”

So short metallic brocade jackets in borderline garish shades of violet and peony pink with gold, and featuring jewelled buttons, were updated with tiered jacquard miniskirts, and models’ hands were jammed nonchalantly in their pockets. Very different from the suiting, but with a common thread of attitude, power and sex appeal that defines the house. It’s not that Vaccarello didn’t already understand who the Saint Laurent woman is, it’s more that he wanted to get to know her even better.

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