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The man who left the Starman with mismatched eyes

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The man who left the Starman with mismatched eyes
George Underwood George Underwood and David Bowie sitting on the deck of a boat with the sea and land behind themGeorge Underwood

George Underwood and David Bowie remained lifelong friends after first meeting as young children

The artist George Underwood is taking part in a charity exhibition that was inspired by a lyric written by his school friend and creative collaborator David Bowie – but it is a particular episode in the late music legend’s life for which he will always be most famous.

“I know what you’re going to say. I know exactly what you’re going to say,” Underwood laughs over the phone.

The 77-year-old has enjoyed an extremely successful career, creating images that are recognised around the world, but he is still known best as the man who “changed the colour” of Bowie’s left eye.

Underwood first met David Robert Jones – who would become better known as David Bowie – not long after the future star had moved from Brixton in south London to the quiet suburb of Bromley.

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Getty Images Close up of David Bowie's face Getty Images

David Bowie – whose damaged left eye can be seen clearly in this photograph – released 111 singles during his career, including hits like Ashes to Ashes, Space Oddity, Changes and Heroes

“We met when we were enrolling for the Cubs. We were nine years old and started talking about music, stuff that was on the telly… everything that was sort of fashionable at that time.”

The pair were soon best pals who “were always being silly and laughing a lot”, says Underwood.

“We were always together, we were very good friends and we used to go up and down Bromley High Street all dressed to the nines, thinking we were God’s gift, trying to chat up all the girls, walking from the north Wimpy bar to the south Wimpy bar.”

Getty Images Black and white photo of David Jones (later David Bowie) playing saxophone with the Konrads in Biggin HillGetty Images

Bowie, seen playing the saxophone, joined The Konrads who had Underwood as their singer

They both attended Bromley Technical College, which was so new “some of the builders’ stuff was still lying around in the entrance”, where they were taught art by Owen Frampton, father of future rock star Peter Frampton.

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It was at Bromley Technical – now called Ravens Wood School – that Underwood forever changed the look of David Bowie, following a row about a girl called Carol to whom they had both taken a liking.

After the pair’s attempts to woo her had failed at a chaotic 15th birthday party, where “a whole troop of blokes came in carrying bottles of gin”, Underwood agreed to meet Carol at a youth club the next evening, only for Bowie to tell him she had decided to go out with him instead.

“I decided to go down the youth club anyway a little bit later on because I’d never been there before and her mate came out shouting: ‘Where have you been? Carol’s been waiting for you for over an hour.’

“I thought: ‘Uh-oh. David’s told me a porky pie here,’” Underwood says.

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Having been egged on by another friend “to stick one on him”, and hearing Bowie falsely boasting he had been out with Carol, during break time at school Underwood “went over to him and just whacked him in the eye”.

The pair made up soon afterwards even though the punch had permanently damaged the pupil in Bowie’s left eye, meaning it would no longer dilate even in bright lights, giving it the impression of being a different colour from his right eye.

“It was just horrible. I didn’t like it at the time. But of course later on, lo and behold, he says I did him a favour because it’s given him this enigmatic, otherworldly look.”

George Underwood (l-r) Birgit Underwood, George Underwood, Angie Bowie and David Bowie at George and Birgit's wedding in 1971George Underwood

Bowie and his then-wife Angie were among the guests at Birgit and George Underwood’s wedding in 1971

It was during this time that music began to take over the teenagers’ lives, with Underwood singing in the band The Konrads, which Bowie then joined and played his saxophone.

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Later they formed the King Bees, when the future Starman would display his thirst for fame in a note to John Bloom, “who was I suppose at the time the equivalent to, say, Richard Branson”.

“I think he had his dad to help him with the letter but it was quite ballsy, you know: ‘Brian Epstein’s got The Beatles; you need us’, or something like that,” says Underwood.

The band received a telegram in reply providing the phone number for Leslie Conn, who became their manager.

“The springboard that David made, by writing that letter, into the lower ladder of rock’n’roll and music – it was amazing.”

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George Underwood  David Bowie and George Underwood sitting on a sofa in MustiqueGeorge Underwood

Underwood and his family holidayed at Bowie’s villa on the Caribbean island of Mustique

The King Bees would soon split up but in various guises Bowie began to build up a following. Within a few years he was off on his own world tours – and was keen to have his friend along for the ride.

“In early ’72 he rang me and said: ‘Hey George, I’m doing a tour of the States for about three months. Do you wanna come with me?’ I’d only been married for about a year but he said: ‘Oh bring the wife, you know, we’ll have a great time.’

“Well you don’t turn that down, do you? Especially when he says: ‘The QE2, first class, is leaving Southampton on Saturday.’”

It was in 1972 that Bowie first adopted his most famous alter ego, Ziggy Stardust, complete with flared jumpsuits and sparkling leotards.

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“Seeing the audiences looking at this creature from another planet, their mouths wide open, they couldn’t believe it,” says Underwood.

“When you think about it, how brave he was to dress up like he did, going to some of these places which were pretty rough areas. One place was actually cancelled in Texas because I think there were some threats.”

Come the end of the tour, Bowie asked his friend to join him for more shows in Japan, only for Underwood, with a heavy heart, to tell him: “David, I’ve just got married, it’s not a very good basis for a marriage going on a rock’n’roll tour.

“I’d have loved to go to Japan, but I had a life at home,” he says.

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Getty Images David Bowie wearing a striped sequin leotard while performing as Ziggy Stardust in 1972Getty Images

Bowie donned a range of glamorous outfits when performing as Ziggy Stardust during 1972 and 1973

Underwood’s own forays into music ended after one solo album, when he decided “the music business wasn’t really for me” and he returned to his art studies and became a painter.

But he wouldn’t leave the music industry far behind.

“David rang me one day and said: ‘George, I’ve got this mate of mine, he’s just done a record and he’s looking for someone to do the cover and I thought you’d be good for it.’”

That mate was Marc Bolan, and Underwood soon found himself sitting in a South Kensington flat with producer Tony Visconti while the T-Rex star “was sitting cross-legged on the floor staring at his girlfriend at the time for about 10 minutes”.

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With an idea in his head, Underwood returned to his parents’ house, where he was living at the time, and created what became the cover for the rather wordy debut album of Bolan’s Tyrannosaurus Rex – My People Were Fair and Had Sky in Their Hair… But Now They’re Content to Wear Stars on Their Brows.

Bowie then asked his friend to create some of the artwork for his own albums, starting with the back of the star’s self-titled record. Next came the front covers of both Hunky Dory and The Rise and Fall of Ziggy Stardust and the Spiders from Mars – the latter famously depicting Bowie’s alien alter ego in a rainy Heddon Street in London’s West End, leg propped up and guitar in hand.

“Who was to know how such an iconic album it was gonna be? I mean, in those days, David wasn’t very well known,” Underwood says.

George Underwood George Underwood wearing black frame glasses and and a blue top, standing in front of a painting of three people standing in waterGeorge Underwood

Underwood forged a successful career as a painter with a little help from his friend

Underwood would go on to work with groups including Procol Harum and Mott the Hoople and also forged a painting career away from music, but it is art linked to Bowie that features in one of Underwood’s latest works.

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Coinciding with the 50th anniversary of the release of Bowie’s album Diamond Dogs, charity War Child has launched Sound & Vision – a new annual exhibition and auction. This year, Underwood is among 33 artists who have created pieces inspired by the lyric from the track Rebel Rebel, “We like dancing and we look divine”, a song that featured on the Diamond Dogs album.

Underwood has created a new version of a painting called Dancing with Giants, featuring two dancers who have been dressed in very specific clothing.

“I put them in the costumes that the dancers were wearing when Ziggy arrived in 1972 at the Rainbow [Theatre],” Underwood explains.

Bowie’s show in August that year, as Ziggy Stardust, featured a dance group called The Astronettes who were led by one of Bowie’s key influences, Lindsay Kemp.

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“They had these lovely full-body suits, which were like spider-webs. People who know will know about that Bowie connection.”

George Underwood George Underwood's painting for Sound & Vision featuring two dancers on a reflective floor with large faces behind themGeorge Underwood

Underwood’s painting for Sound & Vision features performers wearing the same outfits worn by dancers during a Ziggy Stardust gig
Sam Drake/Harland Miller Two paintings by artists Sam Drake and Harland Miller, one showing hands drawing on a piece of paper and the other paint blotches and grey lines on brown paper

Artists Sam Drake and Harland Miller are among those to have created paintings for the project

Underwood and Bowie remained friends throughout the decades, holidaying together and regularly exchanging “silly emails”, until the star’s death in his adopted home of New York in January 2016.

“He used to call me Michael and I would call him Robert,” says Underwood.

“I miss him deeply because he went too soon, as we know, and he was just great to be with, always fun to be with. We laughed a lot.

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“I often wondered whether every time he looked in the mirror whether he thought of me,” Underwood adds.

“I’m just a bit worried that I might have it carved on my tombstone.”

Sound & Vision will be on show at 180 Strand on 26 and 27 September, with the auction running from 17 September to 1 October

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Donald Trump’s election nemesis returns to help protect the vote in Georgia

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Brad Raffensperger is all too familiar with attempts to subvert US democracy.

The Secretary of State for Georgia was on the receiving end of the infamous Donald Trump phone call after the 2020 election, when the then-president urged his fellow Republican to “find” the 11,780 votes he needed to win the state. Raffensperger refused and death threats ensued.

Almost four years on from the unrest that followed the last presidential election, Raffensperger is again in the crosshairs of the Trump faithful, as he battles a Maga-friendly majority on the swing state’s election board who passed last-minute laws that critics claim will pave the way for post-election legal chaos, if not violent unrest.

“There are a lot of bad actors out there,” Raffensperger acknowledged as he visited a polling station in DeKalb County this week for a “security health check”, a live test of one of the big-screen voting machines that will be used across Georgia on the November 5 election. “That’s why we need people that are going to stand their ground no matter what.”

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An election official carries out an elections security health check at the Dekalb County election headquarters
An election official carries out an elections security health check at the DeKalb County election headquarters © Ben Rollins/FT

If the loudest election deniers in the Republican party are to be believed, there will be plenty for Raffensperger to resist.

He and others in the state are in a battle to prevent ‘bad actors’ from undermining the vote in Georgia, both through public education about voting systems and by rolling out security measures, including panic buttons, for poll workers and training in using antidotes for poisoning.

Simultaneously, officials at the county level “are trying to lay the groundwork to dispute the election results in Georgia if former president Trump loses,” said Nikhel Sus, deputy chief counsel at the advocacy group Citizens for Responsibility and Ethics in Washington (Crew).

Their goal is to use allegations of fraud as a “pretext” for election deniers who would then refuse to ratify the results from Georgia on January 6 2025, he added, in what “would literally be history repeating itself”.

Trump has foreshadowed such an outcome. “We have to make sure that we stop [Democrats] from cheating,” he said at an Atlanta rally in August. He then praised three of five members of the state election board as “pit bulls fighting for honesty, transparency, and victory”.

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The trio, who were appointed by Republicans, have pushed through a last-minute rule change that allows local election officials to halt the certification of election results in order to conduct a “reasonable inquiry”, without defining what reasonable might look like.

The board on Friday introduced a rule that all ballots in Georgia must be hand-counted — a move that campaigners warned was unlawful and unworkable, and could delay the election result for weeks. Raffensperger has accused the board of introducing “eleventh-hour chaos”, but he has no power to reverse their decisions.

A report published by Crew last month found that at least eight election officials in Georgia had refused to certify election results since 2020, the most of any swing state since the last cycle. They all remain in their positions.

An election official carries out an elections security health check
An election official carries out an elections security health check © Ben Rollins/FT

With fewer than 50 days to go to the election, and Trump and Kamala Harris neck-and-neck in the Georgia polls, Raffensperger has embarked on a tour of more than two dozen counties to reassure the 5mn voters expected in the state that their votes will be safe.

Alongside technicians working for his office, he painstakingly demonstrates how the Dominion Voting Systems devices used in Georgia — themselves the target of conspiracy theories — are protected from hackers and illegal tampering, and how votes are digitally counted and cross referenced.

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“There is a process in place and it has worked well in the past,” the 69-year-old former engineer said, in his soothing Southern drawl. He insisted local election officials have no discretion to stop certification. “When you come to the following Monday, the state law says you must, counties shall certify the election . . . that’s right there in black letter law.”

The Harris campaign, among others, is challenging the state election board’s new rules in court, with a trial set to begin next month.

Pro-democracy activists have expressed faith in the legal system to prevent attempts to delay results. Efforts to undermine the vote “will ultimately fail because of the robust protections in place and because journalists, pro-democracy advocates, and voters are watching closely,” said Justin Berger, a Georgia lawyer working for advocacy group Informing Democracy.

Crew said any election official who refuses to certify election results can expect to be sued “immediately” by well-prepared attorneys.

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But Berger warned of an ominous “change of tactics” in the run-up to the 2024 vote. “It’s not so much a full-frontal assault as it is guerrilla warfare, because [the election deniers] win if they just create uncertainty . . . all it took was some manufactured uncertainty [in 2020] and we had January 6,” he said of the 2021 attack on Capitol Hill.

Although Georgia has more election deniers in crucial positions than elsewhere, they are making inroads in other swing states, including Arizona and Pennsylvania.

Marc Elias, a lawyer who successfully fought more than 60 lawsuits brought by election deniers in the aftermath of the 2020 vote and now works for the Harris campaign, has warned Republicans are “building an election subversion war machine” and are “far more organised” than four years ago.

As well as installing election deniers in key election administration roles, groups who promoted conspiracy theories after the 2020 vote have attempted to disqualify tens of thousands of voters in key states, in so-called mass voter challenges, claiming the rolls are full of dead people, illegal aliens, or Americans who have moved to other states.

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Even if such efforts have been largely unsuccessful, there are mounting fears of voter intimidation and the targeting of poll workers.

A recent poll found almost 30 per cent of Republicans with favourable views of Trump want armed citizens to take over as poll watchers.

In Georgia, where two poll workers were hounded out of their homes and jobs after being falsely accused of fraud by then Trump lawyer Rudy Giuliani after the last election, Raffensperger’s office has handed out lanyards with panic buttons to individuals working in precincts across the state.

Election supervisors have also been trained to use Narcan, an antidote to opioid poisoning, after fentanyl-laced letters were sent to the Fulton county board of elections office.

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In an attempt to shore up confidence in the voting process, Georgia has joined forces with the “Vet the Vote” campaign, which encourages veterans to become poll workers, in the hope they will be trusted by voters across the political divide.

But Raffensperger is under no illusions that such measures will convert those who believe the conspiracy theories touted by members of his own party.

“Some people just can’t believe that their candidate has come up short,” he said. “I’ve been very clear that no matter how you look at it, there was a race back in 2020 and the 227 Republican congressmen all got more votes in all of their districts than president Trump did. And in Georgia, we saw the same thing . . . People just left the top of the ticket blank.”

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Despite coming under repeated attack from Trump, who claimed at the Atlanta rally that Raffensperger was doing “everything possible to make 2024 difficult for Republicans to win”, the secretary enjoys a higher approval rating in Georgia than the former president.

“People know no matter what, I’m going to do my job,” Raffensperger said, even as he lamented that his “microphone’s not big enough” to drown out voices seeking to inject doubt about the integrity of Georgia’s elections.

When asked what would happen if a large number of counties refused to certify the vote in November, Raffensperger smiled ruefully. “Then the judges will be busy.”

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Homes Under the Hammer has RUINED my life – builders woke me up every day for months… and now my partner has gone

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Homes Under the Hammer has RUINED my life - builders woke me up every day for months... and now my partner has gone

BUILDERS renovating a terraced house for BBC TV show Homes Under The Hammer made the next door neighbours’ lives a “misery” for six months.

Ian Gilbert and his housebound partner Rita Owen were woken up almost every day at 7.30am to the noise of a jackhammer, and he claims they were given no prior warning before the work got underway.

Ian Gilbert outside his home in Crewe, Cheshire

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Ian Gilbert outside his home in Crewe, CheshireCredit: Andrew Price / View Finder Pictures
Ian with his partner, Rita Owen on her 80th birthday

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Ian with his partner, Rita Owen on her 80th birthdayCredit: Andrew Price / View Finder Pictures
Homes Under The Hammer presenter Dion Dublin during the episode, which broadcast last week

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Homes Under The Hammer presenter Dion Dublin during the episode, which broadcast last weekCredit: BBC
Ian says he was never pre-warned about the show being filmed or the renovation work

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Ian says he was never pre-warned about the show being filmed or the renovation workCredit: Andrew Price / View Finder Pictures

Rita, 84 – a cancer survivor who has other severe health problems – has now moved into a care home as full-time carer Ian, 70, can no longer cope, saying his own health problems were exacerbated by the ordeal.

He is currently awaiting open heart surgery. The next door house, in Crewe, Cheshire, was given a full renovation into a six-bedroom HMO after being sold at auction as part of the show.

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Ian said the first he knew about the work was when he saw presenter and ex-footballer Dion Dublin outside doing a piece to camera segment for the programme in October last year.

Construction work began almost immediately and wasn’t completed until April.

Ian told the Sun: “They had no respect for us whatsoever and made our lives a misery for six months.

“They never came and told us anything that was going to happen, there was no communication.

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“You’d think they’d have given us a fair bit of warning, but we had nothing at all. It’s shocking. They’ve gone now and that’s it, they’ve done their job. Move onto another one, I suppose.

“They’ve got a nice little programme to put together but don’t think of the consequences for other people.”

Referring to Rita, he continued: “My partner, who is now in a home, was very ill at the time, she was housebound… The noise was terrible.

“I used to go out for a couple of hours on a Monday afternoon for a pint with a mate for a couple of hours of respite.

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My council house always looks dirty despite endless scrubbing – it’s all broken or hanging off hinges & I can’t fix it

“I’ve gone back home on the first Monday and she was in a hell of a state. They’ve used a jackhammer right the way along the living room wall. Frightened her to death.

“They didn’t know she was in. This jackhammer carried on for the full length of the term of the renovation, until the last day.”

Ian explained that the next door stairway is “right up against” his living room wall and as there was no carpet it sounded “like a herd of elephants” when the builders arrived each morning.

He said he checked on his local council’s website and such noisy work is only allowed from 8am-6pm Monday to Friday, and from 8am-2pm on Saturday, with nothing on a Sunday.

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Ian said: “They did make a lot of noise until I went out and said they shouldn’t be making any noise on a Sunday, so [the lead builder] said we’ll work but we won’t make any noise. I’ve heard that one before.”

Ian joked: “They had rubber hammers in the end.”

The episode was broadcast earlier this month.

Ian said: “It all looked very hunky dory, but no one’s concerned about how we went on.

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“What about the poor people who had to put up with it all?”

Referring to Rita, he said: “She was very ill, lucky to still be with us.

“She had very bad heart problems. Before they started I had mild aortic stenosis.

“After all this I’ve gone to severe aortic stenosis because I’ve got worked up about it all. And I’ve got to have open heart surgery now.I’ve got to go see the cardiologist in a week.”

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Nick Knowles’ DIY SOS wrecked my home and ‘exploited’ my family

BY ALEX WEST

A MAN whose family home was “wrecked” by DIY SOS says the BBC’s offer of financial help won’t cover the damage.

Peter Chapman, 64, a full-time carer for his wife and daughter, says Nick Knowles and his crew caused £30,000 of destruction at his Gloucestershire home.

He says cock-ups included wall bars on the loo for wheelchair-using wife Sarah, 59, and daughter Suzanne, 39, coming off on the first day.

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And part of the hallway collapsed at their Cheltenham home after the works, he adds.

Both incidents could have been “fatal”, Peter believes.

Following a three-and-a-half year row, Peter has now refused £15,000 in compensation from the BBC, claiming repairs would cost double.

He said: “I wish I’d never heard of DIY SOS. They’ve literally had me in tears. They just don’t want to know.

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“I have been trying to get them to understand the impact their botched attempt at helping me and my family has had on me.

“We’ve been used and well and truly exploited. It was all done for effect.

“There were too many people doing too much, too quickly in appallingly wet conditions.”

Other issues include a leaking roof, which now has buckets catching water, cracks in the patio decking, making it unsafe for Sarah to use her wheelchair and a ramp that is too steep for her wheelchair.

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The 64-year-old also blames the programme for laying a driveway that sank and had to be re-laid, cracks in some of the bungalow’s walls, a lack of insulation in two ceilings and installing a slippery hard floor in the lounge when he wanted to keep carpet.

A BBC spokesperson said: “DIY SOS is a heart-warming programme that brings communities together and helps improve the lives of those in need thanks to the hundreds of volunteers who give up their time to participate.

“As with all of our previous projects, the Charlton Kings build was planned and completed in accordance with the necessary required regulatory approvals and signed off onsite by building control.”

The corporation said that it sought impartial third party advice to assess the property when Mr Chapman declined its offers of help.

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It claimed it offered him various solutions, though Mr Chapman denied this had been the case.

The BBC added that it was aware that Mr Chapman had made his own home improvements since it finished filming, which it had no involvement with.

It said it took its duty of care to its contributors very seriously, offered Mr Chapman support and returned personal items to him.

Read the full story here.

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Rita had cancer 10 years ago and Ian became her full time carer after being made redundant from his job as a welder.

She has been housebound for 18 months.

Asked if he blamed the work or TV show for putting his partner in a home, Ian said: “I wouldn’t say it was down to it completely but I don’t think it’s done her any good.

“She’s sat here all day while this renovation has gone on.

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“The heart problems caused her to have water retention in her legs and her legs would swell up terribly. She can’t use her legs again now.

“I couldn’t cope with it anymore, that’s why she’s gone into a home.”

Ian and Rita, who have been together 50 years, have lived at their house for 40 years.

A BBC spokesperson told the Sun: “The Lion TV crew visited the property just twice: once at the beginning, before any renovation work started, and once at the end, after the project was completed.

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“The construction work at the property was conducted independently, with no involvement from Homes Under The Hammer beyond these two visits.”

We have also approached Lion TV, which produces the show, and the owner of the home next to Ian’s.

Ian has lived at the property with his partner for 40 years

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Ian has lived at the property with his partner for 40 yearsCredit: Andrew Price / View Finder Pictures
Ian's house and the Homes Under The Hammer house next door

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Ian’s house and the Homes Under The Hammer house next doorCredit: Andrew Price / View Finder Pictures
Homes Under The Hammer presenters Dion Dublin, Martel Maxwell and Martin Roberts

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Homes Under The Hammer presenters Dion Dublin, Martel Maxwell and Martin RobertsCredit: BBC

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Police called to pensioner brawl in Halifax town centre with man, 60, arrested

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Police called to pensioner brawl in Halifax town centre with man, 60, arrested


A 65-year-old man was punched and kicked in the attack

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the great menswear guide to autumn

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Unlock the Editor’s Digest for free

I love Steve Coogan. I first saw him the night after he won the Perrier Award at Edinburgh in 1992 where he was appearing as one of his many alter egos, the Mancunian bombshell Pauline Calf. He was scorchingly hilarious, and I’ve been an ardent fan ever since. 

To my mind, Coogan’s most famous creation, the quintessential Little Englander and broadcaster Alan Partridge, remains one of the funniest characters on television, eclipsed only by Coogan’s turn as Himself in Michael Winterbottom’s The Trip. I have an infantile weakness for anyone who can do impressions, and enjoy few things in life so much as watching the actor “doing” Roger Moore. Next month sees Coogan in his first major West End role in a restaging of Stanley Kubrick’s Dr Strangelove, another collaboration with Armando Iannucci with whom he has worked for 30 years. He takes time out from rehearsals to talk about the undertaking, which will see him take on four roles (compared to Peter Sellers’ threesome), and a career that has seen him switch between high comedy and more serious parts.

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Coogan wears Dior virgin-wool suit, £2,500, and cotton shirt, £800. Socks, Grenson shoes and pin, Coogan’s own
Coogan wears Dior virgin-wool suit, £2,500, and cotton shirt, £800. Socks, Grenson shoes and pin, Coogan’s own © Suki Dhanda

Lately, Coogan has become a style icon – or at least his wardrobe has come to represent a style that typifies the British male. The crumpled linens, tan blazers and Ray-Bans of The Trip were the focus of much discussion about the modern wardrobe, and what might be appropriate for the mature man to wear. For this reason, I’m delighted that he should feature in this autumn’s men’s style issue, which I hope will be a useful and approachable guide. 

In our tailor’s directory, for example, we unpick the bewildering range of services in London dedicated to the making of a suit. While many of our readers are keen to try bespoke suiting, many report feeling overwhelmed when trying to work out who and what will fit them best. Are they looking for something traditional and highly structured, or are they in search of something softer, lighter and with more slouch? Aleks Cvetkovic has put together an index that we hope may help. From the lean, lengthening lines of Edward Sexton to the regal cuts of Kent & Haste, we hope this answers everything you wanted to know about suiting but were afraid to ask.

A fitting room at Edward Sexton on Savile Row, London
A fitting room at Edward Sexton on Savile Row, London © Mark C O’Flaherty

Not in the market for a three-piece? Maybe a black hoodie is more your vibe. Mark C O’Flaherty has found out how the sporty basic has become akin to haute couture. Likewise, at Sunspel, the T-shirt specialists are debuting a bespoke service to help men (and women) find the perfect fit. We’ve sent Louis Wise to test it out

In the 13 years since founding his men’s ready-to-wear label Ami Paris, Alexandre Mattiussi has introduced womenswear, accessories, leather goods and jewellery, and turned his business into a global €300mn brand. His recipe for success has been the provision of a core line in utilitarian trousers, shirts and basics at an aspirational price point. His trousers especially come highly recommended by many of my peers. 

Alexandre Mattiussi wears an Ami de Coeur shirt with the signature red heart emblem
Alexandre Mattiussi wears an Ami de Coeur shirt with the signature red heart emblem © Julien Lienard

“I’m not a niche designer, I’m not an intellectual designer, I’m not a conceptual designer,” he tells Jessica Beresford. “I want to dress the maximum amount of people I can, in a very inclusive way.” Ami’s success reveals a truth within the industry that many brands don’t seem to hear. Why not make clothes that people actually want to wear?

Leon Dame wears Louis Vuitton leather jacket, £1,300, and denim trousers, £1,360. Herno cashmere and wool jumper, £460. Charvet cotton shirt, £515, silk tie, POA, and leather belt, POA. JM Weston leather shoes, £870
Leon Dame wears Louis Vuitton leather jacket, £1,300, and denim trousers, £1,360. Herno cashmere and wool jumper, £460. Charvet cotton shirt, £515, silk tie, POA, and leather belt, POA. JM Weston leather shoes, £870 © Ronan Gallagher

Lastly, our cover story takes you on a journey across Croatia, aboard the Jadrolinija ferry with Leon Dame. It’s always a delight to feature my favourite supermodel on these pages: Dame is one of the only people in the world who could wear a bin bag and still look super-chic. 

@jellison22

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Sunken superyacht believed to contain watertight safes with sensitive intelligence data

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Sunken superyacht believed to contain watertight safes with sensitive intelligence data

Specialist divers surveying the wreckage of the $40 million superyacht that sank off Sicily in August, killing eight people including British tech tycoon Mike Lynch, have asked for heightened security to guard the vessel, over concerns that sensitive data locked in its safes may interest foreign governments, multiple sources told CNN.

Italian Prosecutors who have opened up a criminal probe into multiple manslaughter and negligent shipwreck think the 56-meter (184-foot) yacht, the Bayesian, may contain highly sensitive data tied to a number of Western intelligence services, four sources familiar with the investigation and salvage operation said.

Lynch was associated with British, American and other intelligence services through his various companies, including the cyber security company he founded, Darktrace.

That company was sold to Chicago-based private equity firm Thoma Bravo in April. Lynch, whose wife’s company Revtom Limited owned the vessel, was also an adviser to British prime ministers David Cameron and Theresa May on science, technology and cyber security during their tenures, according to British government and public Darktrace records.

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The sunken vessel, lying on the seabed at a depth of some 50 meters (164 feet), is thought to have watertight safes containing two super-encrypted hard drives that hold highly classified information, including passcodes and other sensitive data, an official involved in the salvage plans, who asked not to be named, told CNN. Specialist divers with remote cameras have searched the boat extensively.

Initially, local law enforcement feared that would-be thieves might try to reach the wreckage to find expensive jewelry and other objects of value still onboard the yacht, according to divers with the Fire Brigade who spoke with CNN. Now they are concerned that the wreckage, expected to be raised in the coming weeks as part of the criminal investigation into the tragedy, will also be of interest to foreign governments, including Russia and China. They have requested that the yacht be guarded closely, both above water and with underwater surveillance.

“A formal request has been accepted and implemented for additional security of the wreckage until it can be raised,” Francesco Venuto of the Sicilian Civil Protection Agency confirmed to CNN.

Lynch, his 18-year-old daughter Hannah, American attorney Chris Morvillo and his wife Neda, British banker Jonathan Bloomer and his wife Judy, and the yacht’s onboard chef Recaldo Thomas died when the ship sank in a violent storm in the early hours of the morning.

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Preliminary results from autopsies suggest that the Bloomer and Morvillo couples died of suffocation or “dry drowning” when the oxygen in an air bubble in a sleeping cabin ran out. Autopsy results for Lynch and his daughter were less clear.

The chef, whose body was found outside the vessel, died by drowning, the coroner said. Toxicology reports on the dead have not yet been released, but none had suffered any physical injuries when the boat went down.

Lynch’s wife Angela Bacares and 14 others survived, including the captain James Cutfield, who, along with a deckhand and the yacht’s engine room manager, is under investigation for multiple manslaughter and causing a negligent shipwreck. They have all been allowed to leave Italy.

Some of the 15 survivors, of whom nine were crew members and six were passengers, including a 1-year-old girl, reportedly told prosecutors that Lynch “did not trust cloud services” and always kept data drives in a secure compartment of the yacht wherever he sailed, a source with the prosecutor’s office told CNN. None of the crew or passengers who survived the incident were tested for drugs or alcohol because they were in a “state of shock,” authorities said during a news conference following the recovery of the bodies.

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Morvillo represented Lynch when he was acquitted in a criminal fraud case in the US in June tied to the takeover by Hewlett Packard of his software company Autonomy, and survivors told investigators that the cruise was a celebration of that acquittal, according to the assistant prosecutor, Raffaele Cammarano. Though Lynch was acquitted of any criminal wrongdoing in the US, Hewlett Packard has indicated it will not drop its bid to collect a $4 billion civil payout from Lynch’s estate, awarded by a British court in 2022.

In what appears to be a tragic coincidence, Lynch’s business partner Stephen Chamberlain — who was his co-defendant in the US fraud case and the former chief operating officer of Darktrace — died on August 19, the same day the Bayesian sank, after being hit by a car while out jogging two days earlier. A spokesperson for the prosecutor’s office told CNN that Cutfield told them Lynch had learned of Chamberlain’s serious condition and had planned to cut the cruise short to return to the UK to see his business partner, who had been on life support.

The Bayesian sank a few hours before Chamberlain died in the hospital, his lawyer said. Lynch would not have known of his partner’s death, and Chamberlain was in a coma so would not have known about the shipwreck, Chamberlain’s legal counsel said.

Local prosecutor Ambrogio Cartosio said no personal effects, including computers, jewelry or Lynch’s hard drives had been recovered from the vessel. However, the onboard hard drives and surveillance cameras tied to the yacht’s navigation system have been brought to investigators to determine if there is any usable data that might indicate how the yacht sank within 16 minutes of the storm hitting. The vessel did not have a traditional black box or voyage data recorder to record navigation data or audio on the bridge.

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After divers complete surveys of the wreck this week, they will make suggestions for how to best raise the 473-ton vessel without spilling any of the 18,000 liters of oil and fuel still onboard, and how to make sure any sensitive data does not fall into the wrong hands. The costs of raising the ship will fall to its owner, Lynch’s widow, as is mandated by Italian maritime law.

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Bank of London to cut jobs as part of investor-led restructuring

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The Bank of London will cut nearly 15 per cent of its workforce as part of a wider restructuring of the fledgling bank that received £42mn from investors last month.

The bank, which counts US finance heavyweight Harvey Schwartz and Labour grandee Lord Peter Mandelson on its parent’s board, told staff this week that it would make redundant about 20 of its employees, including at executive level, said two people familiar with the cuts.

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The redundancies come as the bank faces pressure from investors to overhaul its operations after it closed its fundraising, said four people familiar with the situation.

A restructuring of the company was discussed as one of the things that investors wanted before committing to the fundraising, said three people close to the bank.

Harvey Schwartz and Lord Peter Mandelson
Harvey Schwartz, left, and Lord Peter Mandelson © AFP/Bloomberg

The financing was led by existing investor Mangrove Capital, whose founder, Mark Tluszcz, is also a non-executive director at the bank. He did not respond to request for comment.

The deal was announced shortly after the bank’s parent company received a winding-up petition from tax authorities over unpaid debt, which came days after its founder Anthony Watson stepped down as chief executive.

The bank attributed the petition from HM Revenue & Customs to an “administrative error” and it has since been resolved. The bank said at the time that the fundraising was unrelated to the petition, which has been withdrawn.

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The bank — which aims to make money from payment services and by franchising its technology to allow corporate clients to offer regulated banking services under their own brands — had in July called on investors for more money, saying it had an “immediate” need to raise millions of pounds of cash for regulatory capital, the Financial Times has previously reported.

Anthony Watson, founder and former chief executive of the Bank of London
Anthony Watson, founder and chief executive of the Bank of London who stepped down earlier this month © RD Content

A spokesperson for the bank said: “Following its successful fundraising and under new leadership, the Bank of London is focusing on its home market of the UK and aligning its resources to support its strategic objectives.”

“As part of this process, the Bank has launched a consultation that may result in a small number of roles being impacted, relative to the total number of staff across its three offices,” the person said, adding the “decision has not been made lightly”.

The company counted about 150 employees before the restructuring according to people familiar with the matter. The bank declined to confirm its total number of employees.

A technology investor called Nasser Hadadi played a key role in leading negotiations on behalf of investors, according to four people familiar with the situation.

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Hadadi, who is a French citizen according to corporate filings, has invested a relatively small sum personally, one of the people added, but was chosen by some of the bank’s investors to represent their interests in discussions with management.

The departures, which will mainly affect UK-based staff, follow an initial round of job cuts in the US earlier this month, where the bank leases offices that sit largely empty in New York and North Carolina.

The Bank of London is separately being sued in the High Court in London by a technology company over alleged unpaid debts as far back as 2022. Court records show that Smart Trade Technologies, a provider of electronic trading and payments platforms, has demanded £1.46mn from the bank including interest and damages.

The claimant said in a lawsuit filed in May that the bank had signed up in 2021 for LiquidityFX, Smart Trade’s foreign exchange trading platform. But it claimed that while the Bank of London paid a set-up fee and for the first year of the service, the bank failed to make subsequent payments required under a five-year contract.

The Bank of London said: “This claim relates to a minor commercial dispute in respect of which we have a robust defence which we fully expect to succeed.”

Additional reporting by Robert Smith in London

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