Fashion

MILAN MENSWEAR FASHION WEEK S/S 2027

Published

3 hours ago

29 June 2026

NewsAdmin

GIORGIO ARMANI, DOLCE & GABBANA, PRADA, PAUL SMITH and THOM BROWNE

Close-cut Silhouettes, Understated Luxe and a New Unconventionality Echoed Complex Times. Pared-back, Stripped-back and Restrained was Most Designers’ Take on S/S 2027.

At Dolce & Gabbana

Image Credit Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiane

Scorchingly hot on the heels of Pitti Uomo, Milan Menswear Fashion Week set the Italian fashion capital ablaze during a week of uncanny temperatures, with innovation, new palettes, textures and moods.

It was an Italian Ode to Spring and Summer, with many references to Mediterranean sun-soaked holidays, cocktail-sipping and long, lazy, leisurely days. Which demanded a certain suave, gentlemanly wardrobe, of course.

A blockbuster collection of designers, from Italian stalwarts Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Tod’s and Giorgio Armani to those further afield – the likes of Paul Smith (who will turn 80 next month), Ralph Lauren (back in Milan after a hiatus) and Thom Browne (who made a rather theatrical return debut to Milan) all vied for ‘wow’-factor on the runways.

On the whole styling was deliberately light, textures airy, silhouettes simple – no-fuss and generally pared-down. In fact, there was a constant pull and push between luxury and indulgence and practical modesty. Responding to a world seeking clarity, perhaps?

Most designers were sensitive to this austere mood of the moment. What may have been considered self-indulgent offerings in past seasons were downplayed this season, but thankfully neither complexity nor allure was compromised. Predictably some designers like Dolce & Gabbana showed less restraint, boldly showcasing their signature embellishments.

As for trends, after many seasons of oversized dominance, the silhouette was slimming down. Tailoring was light and close-cut. ‘Ventilation’ (lace, cut-outs, woven, perforated and transparent fabrics, breathable leather, unbuttoned shirts, micro-sized shorts etc.) was a feature. And rather peculiarly, summer leather was a big trend (see Prada, Tod’s, Dolce & Gabbana and Philipp Plein).

Oh, and suits are very much back in vogue! Paul Smith offered a particularly handsome set of suits for the fashionable man. The tailored suit remained a mainstay at Milan, albeit somewhat adapted for a warmer planet.

We invite you to sit back and enjoy our picks of the best of the best. Cocktail in hand, of course.

GIORGIO ARMANI

Watch Giorgio Armani’s Show here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yi0EDdVb_A

An rather emotive show was held at the epic open-air courtyard of Palazzo Orsini, with creative director Leo Dell’Orco at the helm after the recent passing of legend Giorgio Armani.

The collection was aptly entitled Mercato Mediterraneo, and every fibre was an impassioned ode to the landscapes of the Med. Ocean blues, for example, were juxtaposed with sandy desert shades. This collection was aimed at the contemporary, quietly confident Armani man who embraces travel as a normal extension of life.

The palette consisted of the softest sun-blushed colours and the texture of the linen, washed-out silk and faded denim was crumpled, slubby and looked well-worn in, in the best of ways. Tailoring that truly moves with the body.

Safari jackets, unstructured blazers, cardigan-jackets, tailored collarless shirts, pleated trousers and other relaxed pieces echoed the signature Giorgio Armani

brand, but looked even more airy, minimalist and weightless than we’ve seen previously.

The Armani has always been irresistible, and the crowd lapped up every moment that Dell’Oro somehow managed to make looking cool look not only effortless but also elegant in the unprecedented Milan heatwave.

Giorgio Armani

THOM BROWNE

Watch Thom Browne’s Show here:

What anticipation in Milan to host Thom Browne again after an 18-year absence! The famous gardens of the architectural Palazzo Serbelloni on Corso Venezia were decorated with a grid of 400 vases of aromatic striped roses, mimicking the designer’s characteristic precision.

In typical Thom Browne fashion, the impeccable tailoring of the jackets, blazers, coats, ties and trousers was the backbone of a collection that was uncharacteristically light, easy and super fun. Take the textures, for example: an array of airy cotton weaves and cashmere knits effortlessly rubbed shoulders with wool, plaid and even nylon.

Although best known for his sensational pleated man-skirts, this time tailored trousers, shorts and jeans also featured strongly. Crisp poplin shirts came with collars and cuffs that could be removed, coats were sleeveless and blazers came with short sleeves – all very unconventional and tongue-in-cheek.

As for colour, Thom Browne’s favourite shades of grey, white, navy and red rubbed shoulders with pastels – sky blue, light green and pink. As ever, a Thom Browne offering is an intimate look into the designer’s very specific repertoire of relaxed but controlled sophistication. As a rule Thom Browne’s collections are polished and precise, hence it was refreshing to see Browne letting his hair down a little to present a battered grey biker’s jacket with plenty attitude.

Nature was one of the designer’s key inspirations for this collection, and endearing beasties – embroidered frogs, bees, crickets, ants and dragonflies added a magical and organic touch to this collection. It was like witnessing a set of treasured, personal family heirlooms!

As the collection progressed from bright shades to monochromatic ones, and finally to pure virginal white looks, the very last look was unforgettable: a bride in a pearl tulle veil and grosgrain ribbon took centre stage. This is dramatic storytelling at its very best, from one of the best fashion narrators of our time.

Thom Browne

PRADA

Watch Prada’s Show here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_hemr5WPQk

Perhaps the best way to illustrate the ethos behind Prada’s latest collection is by citing co-creator Raf Simon’s likening it to Pasta Pomodoro (pasta with tomato sauce): classic, humble, basic, simple… and unbeatable.

For many seasons we’ve witnessed Prada stripping away ‘unnecessary’ bits in their designs. Simplistic, classic, no-fuss, free from exaggeration and superfluous embellishment or detail, Prada has been re-evaluating and reimagining pieces season after season to become more slim-fitting, close-cut and shrunken, really.

Part of this stripping away of the superfluous, is the focus on garments that are constants, a kind of an un-dateable fashion capsule: the likes of jeans, T-shirts and denim jackets. Miuccia Prada pointed out that jeans have universally been worn by factory workers and sailors for centuries.

These pieces are genderless and ageless. The skinniness and body-hugging quality of the ensembles emits a certain youthfulness and gives Rock and Roll vibes – think The Beatles and Rolling Stones of the 1960s.

Any designer worth their salt will admit it’s more difficult to create something simplistic from a basic piece of fabric than to make a striking evening gown from a luxurious piece of silk. In true Prada fashion, this forward-thinking couple have consistently chosen the harder, more intellectual design path of eliminating – not adding.

That’s not to say everything in the collection was without its quirks. Offbeat shades like turquoise, lemon yellow, anise-green and poison pink added a certain quality, as did the Wes Anderson retro ‘curtain’ prints and jacquard weaves on the knits. Oh, and no blue jeans allowed!

It’s all inimitably Prada, and as a self-confessed groupie, what’s not to love?

Prada

DOLCE & GABBANA

Watch Dolce & Gabbana’s Show here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7g44qLmfcco

Are you vacation-ready? If not, the inimitable Domenico and Stefano would happily transport you to their native Sicily – a constant source of inspiration and the signature aesthetic for the duo for almost 4 decades, with their collection Vacanze Siciliane.

In the sweltering Milan heatwave a giant screen blatantly seduced attendees with the shimmering turquoise waters of Taormina and Isola Bella. Picturesque Sicily, an island with many historical layers – from the Greeks and Romans to the Arabs and Spanish – inspired Dolce & Gabbana yet again. This time they celebrated the island’s many tactile crafts and traditions.

Summer was lauded with crochet knits, cut-out linen co-ords, citrus motifs and opulent embellishments inspired by the island’s Baroque architecture and coral reefs.

Soft, fluid trouser suits, ripped jeans from the early 2000s, crochet polo shirts, postcard-inspired prints, tailored linen jackets – all embellished with jewels as sparkling as the waters of the Med, oozed relaxed luxe and unadulterated Summer vibes.

In truth, if one could package and sell Summer, this was it. And arguably nobody can do it as convincingly as the sultry, sexy Dolce & Gabbana.

Dolce & Gabbana

PAUL SMITH

Watch Paul Smith’s Show here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmLT0_nm2aI

Suits are Paul Smith’s ‘thing’. As the designer – and a man who’s been donning suits all his life – turns 80 next month, it’s befitting to note that his Spring collection stays true to form and still celebrates the suit in all its renditions.

The silhouette this season was somewhat softer than in past offerings, and the quest for exotic textiles extended as far as a tropical weave produced in Scotland and Habotai silk from the Far East.

Tailoring seemed much more fluid and casual – in fact, some suits were totally unlined, cuffs were turned up, shirts unbuttoned and ties relaxed. Colourful knits and fun prints added to the British quirkiness of the offering. Boxy Hawaiian shirts, slouchy trousers, Bermudas and crossbody sling bags looked like clothes one would love to live, work and play in.

As for colours, dusty naturals like ecru, grey, charcoal and taupe formed the backbone of the collection, but colour pops of chartreuse, apple green and aubergine lifted ensembles no end. Socks in purple and lemon yellow upped the quirkiness ante.

This collection confirms why legendary Brit brand Paul Smith has stood the test of time. It’s also testament to the fact that fashion ought to remain playful even when the key actors in the play – the suits – are supposed to be all grown-up.