Fish and chips at Whitby’s famous Magpie Cafe – our review

IT is a truth universally acknowledged that a day tripper on a visit to Whitby must be in want of fish and chips.

And not just any old fish and chips.

No, they will be wanting some from arguably one of the most famous and best fish and chips cafes in the UK – the much-celebrated The Magpie.

Jane Austen may not have visited the imposing harbourside restaurant (unless she time travelled into the future; The Magpie is old, but not that old).

However, plenty of famous stomachs have filled up on a fish tea at this charmingly old-fashioned cafe, not least North Yorkshire’s very own celebrity chef James Martin who recommends a large haddock and chips from The Magpie as one of his top three things to do on a visit to Yorkshire.

Easily identified by its striking and traditional black and white frontage and queues of eager diners snaking down its entrance stairs and along the pavement, The Magpie has been part of what makes Whitby so special for decades.

The Magpie in Whitby. Photo by NQ

First opening around 1939, the actual building dates from 1750. Its original purpose was to house a rich merchant, but it later became a shipping office.

Depending on your luck, diners may get a table facing the quayside and two of Whitby’s iconic landmarks, St Mary’s Church and the gothic abbey ruins (the inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula).

In my almost 30 years of living in North Yorkshire, Whitby has become my favourite place to visit on the coast.

It’s got everything you could possibly want from a day out at the seaside – from a long, leisurely beach walk to neighbouring Sandsend to the kiss-me-quick vibes of a traditional British holiday resort (who can resist losing a pocketful of pennies in the amusement arcades and filling up on candyfloss and ice-cream?).

And, of course, it has fish and chips.

Now, as they might say on the Beeb, other brands are available, but when most people think of fish and chips and Whitby, only one name comes to mind.

Haddock and chips at The Magpie in Whitby. Photo by NQ

And so it was that our weekend trip to the harbour town led us straight to its door – having worked up an appetite on the hour-long beach walk from Sandsend, where a day’s car parking on the beach road costs just over £8.

It was around 3pm when we arrived at The Magpie; the sun was out with pre-heatwave temperatures hovering in the mid-70s. Perhaps more amazing than a June visit to the seaside coinciding with sunny weather was the fact that there was NO QUEUE at The Magpie.

I almost had to pinch myself that we were able to climb its entrance steps and go straight in, with only a short delay as the waitress located a free table for us inside the sprawling restaurant spread over two warren-like floors.

The cafe also takes bookings and has a take-away service located on site with a serving hatch at pavement level.

There were four of us, and for reviewing purposes, we all agreed to order separate dishes.

The Magpie might be best-known for its f&c, but it also boasts a blockbuster menu with pages of choices covering all manners of fish and seafood. There is a large specials board too.

Our waitress quickly took our drinks orders – two bottles of Fentimans Ginger Beer, an Appletiser (all at £3.75 each), and an apple juice (£2.75) – and brought us a jug of cold tap water, which was most welcome, as we waited for our food.

Choices were as follows: mussels with chips (£19.50); fishcakes and chips (£16); grilled sea bass with chips (£19.50), and a regular haddock and chips (£18.50), with one small side of garden peas (£2).

Moules at The Magpie in Whitby. Photo by NQ

While ordering was swift, we did wait a bit longer than we were expecting for our food – and watched enviously as plate after plate of delicious-looking dinners filed past us.

And just as tummies started rumbling, our food arrived.

It was a squeeze to get everything on our round table for four – but we managed it.

My daughter had picked the mussels which were served in a large, lidded pan alongside some crusty bread for soaking up the gorgeous creamy sauce, generously laced with wine and garlic. Perfectly cooked and bursting with the flavour of the sea, on reflection she said a starter portion would have been enough to eat, especially given the meal came with chips too.

Our other guest felt the same about her fishcakes – two were served as a main, and she struggled to finish both given how hearty they were. Packed with fish rather than just potato, they had a satisfying crunchy coating that got the thumbs up.

Fishcake and chips at The Magpie in Whitby. Photo by NQ

Less of a winner was the sea bass; the small duo of slightly dried-out fillets looked rather lacklustre and forlorn sitting upon the large white plate.

In retrospect, my husband wished he’d ordered the fish and chips, especially after he sneaked a forkful of mine .If you normally go for cod and chips, take my advice and try the haddock. Cooked with its skin on, the flavour volume is maximised.

Sea bass at The Magpie in Whitby. Photo by NQ

The super-crispy, golden orange batter, ripped away to reveal the most beautiful, glistening white fish that just melted in the mouth. If I had one regret, it was that I hadn’t ordered the large portion (as James Martin recommends), because I just could not get enough of it.

As for the chips. Well they were among the best I’d ever tasted, and that is some compliment coming from a Scots lass who grew up with regular chippy teas.

Undoubtedly this is because the chips are fried in the traditional way, in beef dripping, which delivers an off-the-scale moreishness forcing you to eat every last one.

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And on account of this, we were all full up after our meals, with no room for dessert. Although we did enjoy the bespoke Whitby rock mints which came with our bill.

Nice touch – a farewell Magpie Cafe mint on Whitby rock. Photo NQ

But we were not quite done. About an hour later, after we’d walked off our Magpie feast by climbing the 199 steps to Whitby Abbey, it was time for ice-cream.

After the descent, we treated ourselves at the ice-cream kiosk at the bottom of the abbey steps, which serves delicious varieties from local company Beacon Farm – at the bargain price of £2.75 for a single scoop in a waffle cone (which might be the cheapest ice-cream in Whitby if not the whole of North Yorkshire).

I went for a novel flavour – blackcurrant and liquorice and it was so good I’d go back to Whitby just to have it again.

Oh, and a large haddock and chips at The Magpie.

James Martin was right – if there is one thing you must do on a visit to this corner of Yorkshire, it is to get fish and chips at this legendary local cafe.

Long live The Magpie.

Reviews are independent and meals paid for by The Press

Fact file

The Magpie Cafe, Pier Road, Whitby

T: 01947 602058

W: magpiecafe.co.uk

Verdict:

Food – Haddock and chips is the dish to go for, don’t regret it!

Service – Friendly but can be bit slow, patience is a must

Ambience – Busy cafe, lucky diners can get picturesque views

Value – Bit on the pricey side, but portions are filling and it’s a must-do in Whitby