FOOD REVIEW: The Punch Bowl Inn at Marton Cum Grafton

Since the Punch Bowl Inn re-opened in the posh village of Marton Cum Grafton, just south of Boroughbridge, a month ago, it has been receiving five star reviews.

As part of a small collection of Gastropubs owned by Simon Wade of Boroughbridge, the Punch Bowl certainly has high standards to meet to fit in with his others.

They are the excellent Blue Bell Inn at nearby Arkendale, the always popular and lovely Grantham Arms in Boroughbridge; plus the Fox and Hounds at Langthorpe, which I have yet to try.

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The Punch Bowl at Marton Cum Grafton back open after revamp

Until recently, Simon owned the Tapp and the Tutt in Boroughbridge, which he sold to a pubco last month, having turned around the former Three Horse Shoes.

A most enjoyable and magnificent and nice looking fish pie (Image: Darren Greenwood)

Turning around pubs seems to be Simon’s speciality and he is certainly repeating his success at the Punch Bowl Inn.

Until he bought it this year, that too was owned by a pubco and it seemed to have gone a bit downhill. And early this century, the pub was also well known as being part-owned by tv actor Neil Morrissey.

Mum loved her scampi and had a piece or two before I’d chance to take a picture of it. (Image: Darren Greenwood)

Anyway, after a brief closure in the Spring, the Punch Bowl has undergone a major makeover, with rustic style fabrics and décor that ooze class and tradition, giving a very appealing look.

There are several dining areas, a main bar, and outside is an impressive beer garden.

I arrived with mum and dad one Friday evening and Dad’s Volvo fitted in well with the cars packing the car park. Luckily there were still a few places available and the venue was quite busy, with many enjoying the warm sun outside.

Fish and chips on a Friday! (Image: Darren Greenwood)

We hadn’t booked, but fortunately, there were still a few tables available and we were shown to our table.

A young girl on her first night took our drinks order but she did not know what beers there were. She returned a few minutes later and rattled off a decent list most enthusiastically.

Dad had a pint of Theakston’s Best (£5.20), mum half of Guinness (£3.40) and I had a pint of Kirkstall IPA (£6.60). The beers were well kept and good.

We ordered three of the Yorkshire Tapas (£10 each or 3 for £25), choosing the Gin Cured Salmon, Smoked Haddock Croquette and King Prawns, as a starter to share between us.

The rustic and classy interior on opening day in May (Image: Darren Greenwood)

The salmon came with fennel and dill, which contrasted each other beautifully and was enjoyed by all.

We all sampled a little of the smoked haddock croquette, which came with a curried mayo and spiced mango coulis. Again the flavours complemented each other well and this too was enjoyed by all.

But best of all were the Chilli and Garlic Sauteed King Prawns, which had been sauteed in Yorkshire rapeseed oil and served with charred lemon. Again, a fine complement of flavour, with the charred aftertaste a great delight. We all enjoyed sharing the prawns.

As it was Friday, Dad ordered Fish, Chips and Peas (£20), mum her usual Scampi (£18.50), and I settled for Fish Fie (£22).

Now, Dad thought the haddock was a little lacking in flavour, but he enjoyed the chips and the mushy peas. I tried a piece of his fish and thought it was fine, though maybe the batter was a little too crispy. The hand cut chips were fine too, with a soft centre as if done nicely in the oven.

The rustic and classy interior on opening day in May (Image: Darren Greenwood)

Mum loved her scampi and there were a couple of pieces more than in the photo and both of us agreed the Scampi was also very good.

I thoroughly enjoyed my fish pie, which was presented well, looking very colourful due to the Cheddar cheese, which boosted the flavour of a lovely, smooth mash. Underneath were plenty of king prawn, white fish and salmon, which I soon polished off.

The pie came with seasonal vegetables- namely lovely and soft large pieces of carrot, some delightfully (steamed?) cabbage. Dad also polished off my broccoli, as I’m not into broccoli.

Whilst we were more than satisfied with our meal, it was different at the table next door. They had all ordered steak and after initially saying how lovely they looked as they arrived, two complained soon after saying they had ordered them to be cooked ‘medium’ and they came out more ‘medium-rare’.

The Punch Bowl Inn enjoying some evening sun (Image: Darren Greenwood)

One persevered with the steak but another asked for it to be taken back, and the server said they would replace it. It was replaced without any fuss and later I heard the diner tell the server her new steak was ‘perfect.’ Apart from the one who did not send her steak back, the three other diners also seemed very happy with their steaks.

Now, we were quite full so we did not bother with dessert. But there is an extensive range. There’s a pizza menu too. The pub serves sandwiches and there is also Sunday Roast. Plenty of choice for everyone, vegans, vegetarians, coeliacs, etc.

The bill came to £100.70, and though not the cheapest, we had enjoyed a fine meal in beautiful surroundings. The history and charm of this 16th Century village pub is a sight to see and treasure.

A most lovely beer garden on a fine Friday evening (Image: Darren Greenwood)

The service was still very good, warm and friendly, and staff will do their best to put things right should they go wrong, as seen with the table next door.

We left feeling very satisfied and we look forward to trying other things on a future visit.

It was about 7.30pm and there were still plenty sat outside enjoying the beer garden.

Should the warm weather return, sitting outside in the sun sounds most excellent, perhaps with a pizza. or a meat dish.

The Punch Bowl is punching very nicely and is a highly recommended pub well worth the ride out.

Owner Simon Wade can once more be proud of what his staff are achieving and in such a short time.

Reviews are independent and all meals paid for by The Press

Fact file

The Punch Bowl Inn at Marton Cum Grafton

York YO51 9QY

T: 01423 322519

W:  https://www.facebook.com/ThePunchBowlMarton/?locale=en_GB

Verdict:

Food: Tasty and classy gastropub fayre, with many favourites

Ambience: Rustic charm and elegance

Service: Warm and helpful, with nothing too much trouble

Value: Not the cheapest but still good for the quality of the food and venue