Here, you can walk forested trails, explore nearby waterfalls and picnic spots and enjoy an unexpected bonus – a hotel bar with a magnificent view of the lake.
Summer is almost here, so it’s time to start planning some lovely lakeside walks and woodland strolls. We’re spoiled for choice here in Wales, with long-distance trails, coastal treks, and shorter loop trails through shady forests.
One of my favourite walks is around the tree-lined shores of Lake Vyrnwy. Here, you can walk forested trails, explore nearby waterfalls and picnic spots and enjoy an unexpected bonus – a hotel bar with a magnificent view of the lake.
Storm damage has blocked part of the roads and hiking routes (repairs are still ongoing), but there are still trails you can stomp along, and bird hides you can use for birdwatching. Look out for chaffinches, marsh tits, great spotted woodpeckers, sparrow hawks, greenfinches, house sparrows, blue tits, and robins.
In this hugely underrated area, you’ll also find the Lake Vrnwy Hotel, where you can enjoy a drink on the expansive outdoor terrace.
Located in a 24,000-acre estate on a forested hillside overlooking a dramatic, mountain-ringed lake, this swish hotel commands one of the most impressive views of Lake Vyrnwy reservoir and has been wowing visitors since 1890.
The origin story of this lake is intertwined with that of the Lake Vrnwy Hotel because neither would be here without a very thirsty Liverpool. In the 1800s, the port city of Liverpool was booming but had a wildly insufficient water supply to keep residents hydrated and industry flourishing.
So, in true British fashion, they scouted for aqua and found it right here in the verdant Vyrnwy Valley. With over 400 streams and a perfect rocky base, it was declared the ideal spot to drown an entire Welsh village and build what became Britain’s first large masonry dam. Cheers for that.
Llanwddyn was relocated uphill, the valley flooded, and by 1889, water began its 68-mile journey east to keep Liverpudlian kettles boiling.
At the time, it was the world’s second-largest civil engineering project, and the vast reservoir remains Severn Trent’s most ambitious.
The Liverpool Corporation built the hotel in 1890 to impress visiting dignitaries and businessmen, who marvelled at this outstanding engineering feat. Demand soon exploded.
And you can see why, it’s a total stunner, with views over the lake that still astonish. Royalty even popped by to have a nose. In 1910, 20 years after the hotel’s completion, the then Prince of Wales, later King George V, arrived to officially open the dam and visit the hotel.
Since then, the hotel has been extended and spruced up with new bedrooms, a conference and banqueting suite, and the Tavern bar. The Bisiker family now owns it, which has been run by Anthony Rosser since 2000.
If you are staying at the hotel, there are walks right on your doorstep. Cross the masonry dam, built in the 1880s and the first of its kind in the world, and you’ll find a visitor hub, RSBP bird hide, cafe, bike hire, and boathouse offering watersports, kayaks, and SUP rentals.
This area is a great starting point for a hike, as you can pick up supplies for the cafe and read the information boards to get the inside scoop.
There’s plenty to discover around here. Around 300 streams, waterfalls, and rivers flow into the lake, which is named after the mountains or hillsides from which they originate. One of the best-known treks is an easy hike to the secluded Rhiwargor Waterfall.
Popular with locals, these impressive falls lie at the northern tip of Lake Vyrnwy, within the RSPB reserve. Although often overlooked in favour of the towering 80m Pistyll Rhaeadr, they offer an equally striking spectacle.
Pistyll Rhiwargor, with its total drop of 100m, is listed as the seventh-highest in Wales and is sustained by the tributary waters of Afon Eiddew, originating from the Berwyn mountains above Llyn Tegid in Y Bala, before eventually joining the reserves of Llyn Vyrnwy.
The picturesque waterfall is part of RSPB Cymru’s Llyn Vyrnwy Nature Reserve. You’ll find convenient free parking less than a mile off the B4393, offering picnic tables and typically ample room for cars, especially if you visit on a weekday. You can read more about the Rhiwargor Waterfall hike here.
For a longer hike, you can take in the entire reservoir loop when all the paths are open (it’s always worth checking first, as storm damage has blocked some).
The reservoir covers an area equivalent to around 600 football pitches and has a circumference of just under 12 miles.
A road goes all the way around it, making it ideal for keen bikers. An annual half-marathon is held here every September, too.
The Lake Vyrnwy Tourism website is a brilliant resource for information on walking trails. The All Trails app also features several hiking routes in and around the lake.
The trails
Several trails in the area vary in length and difficulty and are colour-coded. The yellow trail is a short but sweet one-mile loop that follows the riverbank, weaving through lush sessile oak woodland.
There’s a bit of a climb and a steeper descent towards the end, but nothing too wild.
The Red Trail is a 5.5-mile loop through forest tracks and wide clearings if you want something a bit longer. You’ll stroll beneath conifer and birch trees, with a steady uphill to start and a sharp drop as you return to the road.
For a different perspective of the lake, the 1.5-mile orange trail will lead you up and around its edges, offering a cracking view of the water and the iconic straining tower. It’s the perfect spot for a cheeky photo op for your socials.
The blue trail stretches for 3 miles and is ideal if you’re up for more of a challenge. Expect two decent climbs and a steep descent, but it’s all worth it when trekking through the shady woodland.
The purple trail is a gentle 5-mile loop that is easy on the legs. With lovely forest tracks and peaceful roads, it’s a perfect choice for a gentle amble through scenic settings.
The grandiose Lake Vrnwy Hotel is an excellent choice for a post-hike pint, with epic lake views from the restaurant and bar terrace.
It’s ideally positioned for panoramic views across the water and alpine-looking landscape, and is a proper sun trap in balmy weather.
Hungry? The Tower Restaurant is the hotel’s main dining option, serving afternoon tea and classic British cuisine with a Welsh twist.
Typical plates include Welsh beef fillet, truffle mashed potatoes, pan-fried seabass fillets with roast Mediterranean vegetables, and roast duck two ways.
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