Ross-on-Wye retains a great deal of old-world charm, with stunning black-and-white timber-framed buildings and cute little independent shops. Elizabeth Mackley made a visit
It’s a modest market town, tucked away in the nook where Herefordshire meets Gloucestershire on the Welsh border.
I’d never have surmised that Ross-On-Wye is the cradle of British tourism, and THE holiday hotspot of the late 18th and early 19th century. However, given there’s some indication we are witnessing a resurgence of romanticism (think Wuthering Heights and Bridgerton rather than the latest rom-com), it wouldn’t astonish me if there’s a wave of soul-seekers retracing the paths of their ancestors across the UK’s most cherished natural landscapes.
And what superior way to discover Ross-on-Wye for myself than from the Hope and Anchor. Situated right on the brink of the River Wye, it was just outside this inn that the boats would embark on their tour. So it appeared like the ideal place for my toddler and I to pause for the night as part of a trip organised by Visit Herefordshire.
Before we checked in for the night, we set off to explore a town peculiarly located on the northern edge of the Forest of Dean, less than 10 miles from the Welsh border, and six miles from Gloucestershire, reports the Mirror.
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Stepping onto the streets of Ross-on-Wye, it doesn’t require much imagination to be transported through time and see what inspired the Reverend William Gilpin to pen Britain’s first ever travel guide. Published in 1782, Observations on the River Wye centres on a boat tour he undertook down the River Wye from Ross-on-Wye to Chepstow.
The words of the pioneer of the “picturesque” adventure proved so captivating that replicating his journey soon became the fashionable thing to do – particularly during the Napoleonic Wars, when participating in the Grand Tour across continental Europe became impossible.
As market towns go, Ross-on-Wye is a reasonably well-sized one, with a population of approximately 11,000 according to the 2021 census. However, 250 years after it was first made famous, it still retains an old-world charm, dotted with stunning black-and-white timber-framed buildings and charming little independent shops where you can while away the afternoon browsing.
After working up an appetite, taking in the street scenes surrounding the prominent Market House building in the town centre, we headed towards the High Street looking for Truffles Deli, which Visit Herefordshire had suggested we grab a quick bite from. Unfortunately, the highly-rated eatery promising delicious sandwiches, soups and cakes is closed on Sundays.
Instead we followed directions on a chalkboard pointing us towards Maggie’s Place a few doors down. Warm and welcoming, incense drifted through the space as we entered, appreciating the exposed beams and brickwork.
The café – which also welcomes four-legged friends – has only been open for several months, and the proprietors have recently started introducing a more extensive menu, including sandwiches and cakes.
“We’re trying to be completely locally sourced”, the owner tells me, explaining the ham in the delicious sandwich I bite into is from the delicatessen around the corner. He mentions they are working on bringing in crisps made nearby, and the bread has been locally produced, too.
And if the flavour is anything to go by, lunch is remarkably under-priced. I cannot get enough of the garlic spread in my ham sandwich, offering a silky and creamy edge. I’m secretly grateful that my toddler is only interested in the packet of crisps I bought to share.
But the thing that impressed me most about Maggie’s is the coffee. I’m not exactly a coffee connoisseur – my mornings start with instant – but if I’m purchasing a coffee, I do have certain standards.
The owner serves me a Café Au Lait – his version of a flat white – and it’s the first coffee I have bought out in at least two years that I haven’t had to add sugar to. Rich, velvety, and bitter without the burn, I’ve finished it all too quickly.
Following lunch, we take a stroll up the hill towards The Royal Hotel. Some 200 years ago, this is where we would have been lodging before setting off on our boat journey as outlined in Gilpin’s guidebook.
And it’s simple to understand why – the enormous historic inn stands majestically above the town, offering spectacular views of the River Wye guaranteed to take your breath away.
Constructed on the foundations of a 13th-century Bishop’s Palace, the Greene King hotel features 42 bedrooms and can accommodate weddings. But for the moment, we simply appreciate the views before heading around the corner to The Prospect.
Tucked away in the pleasure garden at the rear of the graveyard of St Mary’s Church, the Prospect was established around 1700 by John Kyrle – also known as the ‘Man of Ross’. From this vantage point, you can observe the famous horseshoe bend in the Wye and as far west as the Black Mountains.
Settling in for the night
If you glance directly down from The Prospect, you can spot the Hope and Anchor, just a small car park’s width from the water’s edge. Recent rainfall has caused the River Wye to swell, pressing against its banks and saturating the paths and borders.
We check into our room for the evening, a beautiful ensuite with an impressive chandelier-type lighting, which captivates my little girl even more than the cartoons on the television. A small love seat adds a romantic element to the room, which has lovely views of the river.
I’d love to return in the warmer months. After settling in, we head downstairs to the dining room.
Whilst it may seem a snug, tidy, and rather unremarkable little pub, there is nothing standard about what you consume at the Hope and Anchor. Even the wine I treated myself to as a small holiday indulgence far surpassed expectations.
I requested a medium glass of red wine – and instead savoured a burst of robust, potent flavours resonating with plum and black fruits with a woody finish (Vina Cerrada Rioja, £5.5 a small glass).
I selected from the specials menu to begin – whipped camembert brulee (£8) presented on a bed of fig chutney, toasted sourdough and topped with hazelnut and apple. If you’re a devotee of Camembert, this is not something to be overlooked.
The sharpness of the chutney balanced the creamy richness of the cheese, crowned with the gratifying crunch of the hazelnuts and apple scattered on top. The chutney contributed an earthy taste, and the whipped texture of the camembert provided a delightful variation to both its cold and melted forms.
This was succeeded by the garlic-and-thyme-roasted supreme of chicken (£19.50). From the kitchen arrived a substantial, steaming plate of a roast dinner, served with garlic and rosemary roast potatoes, braised red cabbage puree, glazed parsnips, roasted heritage carrots, herb and apricot stuffing, seasonal greens, Yorkshire pudding and red wine gravy.
I even had a generous bowl of cauliflower cheese on the side.
Now, as everyone is aware, the real test of a roast dinner lies in its potatoes. After all, nobody can ever surpass your mum’s, correct?
However, the Hope and Anchor has certainly given her a challenge.
Instead of the rubbery roasties we often excuse pubs for, these were flawlessly crispy on the outside, and steaming and fluffy on the inside, embodying the gold standard all roast potatoes strive for.
Paired with delightfully sweet roasted vegetables, contrasted with the leafy seasonal greens, and one of the largest Yorkshire puddings I’ve ever seen on a plate, there was no chance I was going to finish the meal. The cauliflower cheese also made the perfect addition, not overly cheesy, not excessively creamy, but just perfectly balanced and toasted on top.
I couldn’t resist a second helping despite my protesting stomach.
Even the chicken nuggets and chips served with baked beans to my daughter were a masterpiece on a plate. Succulent and juicy chunks of battered chicken served with crisp, hand-cut chips, I regretted not having space to help her finish them.
But what made the meal so genuinely special is how well we were cared for and looked after. From the understanding fellow diners who drew smiles from my little girl to the attentive staff, it was a warm and welcoming atmosphere.
I was especially impressed with the way staff overlooked the fact that my little gremlin left most of her meal and was more interested in licking tomato ketchup off a spoon. But then again, she is two, and clearly has no taste.
Gilpin’s footsteps
Following a restful night, we visited the neighbouring café for breakfast, keen to stock up for what I hoped would be another active morning. The Pavilion, which is also part of the Hope and Anchor, is a bright, inviting space with a chic, timeless interior.
It was the ideal setting to tuck into my eggs Royale for breakfast – and yes, the yolk was delightfully gooey with a delicious crunch from the toasted muffin.
We then made our way to the river’s edge, determined to follow in Gilpin’s footsteps despite the swollen Wye and waterlogged paths. I downloaded the Museum Without Walls App – Ross-on-Wye’s virtual museum, which uses AR (augmented reality) to superimpose pictures showing what a specific location would look like in days gone by.
I point the app at the sign just outside the Hope and Anchor, and in an instant, I can see the boats from days gone by preparing to set sail down the Wye towards Chepstow. With determination, we set off, fully intending to at least reach the point where Wilton Bridge crosses the rive,r approximately half a mile away, despite my daughter’s insistence on befriending a couple of rather docile swans, and a worrying game of chase which brought her alarmingly close to the swollen banks of the fast-flowing river.
Regrettably, the path was simply too waterlogged to progress even that far. Instead, we turned back, contemplating a stop at the popular Riverside Inn on Wye Street as part of our return journey.
This proved the only disappointment of our excursion, though one which sadly could not be avoided.
With any luck, next time, my companion will have sufficiently long legs to make the journey on her own feet, too, perhaps when the weather is somewhat less boggy.
What you need to know
- The Hope & Anchor offers lunch and dinner options as well as overnight stays, while next door, The Pavilion restaurant and bar offers breakfast and cocktail masterclasses. There is also The Hut on the river’s edge, serving cakes, hot drinks and ice creams for those on the go. A one-night stay at the Hope & Anchor costs from £90 based on two sharing on a Bed and Breakfast basis. Find out more or book your visit here.
- Find out more about Ross-on-Wye on the Visit Herefordshire website.
- Follow Gilpin’s Wye Boat Tour by downloading the Museum Without Walls App here
- Maggie’s Place at 24 High Street is open 10.30am-4.30pm Monday to Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, and from 12.30pm to 4.30pm on Sundays. Find out more here.
- The Royal Hotel is open all year round with breakfast served between 7am and 11am Monday to Friday and 8am to 12pm on weekends. You can also eat in the evening until 9pm. It’s also dog-friendly. Find out more here.
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