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I’m a beauty writer, and I’ve found the best ultra-lightweight SPF serums that won’t leave a white cast
Sunscreen may be the most important step in any skincare routine, but it is also the one most likely to be skipped.
Many are put off by greasy, pore-clogging formulas, but thanks to modern UV filters and improved ingredient formulations, the latest sunscreens are a world away from the sticky, heavy creams that gave SPF a bad name.
The most impressive formulas now come in the form of SPF serums, a new generation of thinner, more fluid textures that absorb quickly, leave no residue and deliver high protection while feeling just like skincare.
Best ultra-lightweight SPF serums at a glance
- Best overall: SunsolveMD Volumize + Restore Sunscreen SPF 40+ PA++++ — £68, Harrods
- Best for everyday wear: La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVAIR Serum Sunscreen SPF50 — £20.80, Lookfantastic
- Best for affordability: Nivea Sun 2in1 Primer Daily UV Serum SPF50+ — £8.59, Amazon
- Best for dark spots: Lancaster Sun Perfect Unifying Serum SPF50 — £38, Space NK
- Best for face and body: Garnier Ambre Solaire Sensitive Advanced Serum SPF50+ — £9.48, Amazon
- Best for blemish-prone skin: CeraVe Invisible Dry Touch Fluid Sunscreen SPF50+ — £17.90, Lookfantastic
- Best for glow: Tatcha The Milky Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ — £49, Sephora
- Best for splurge: Chanel Sublimage La UV Protection SPF50 — £95, Selfridges
- Best for dry skin: Ultra Violette Queen Screen SPF50+ Luminising Skinscreen — £26.60, Cult Beauty
- Best for under makeup: Lancôme UV Expert Supra Screen SPF 50+ — £30.75, Lookfantastic
- Best for oily skin: Belif Super Drops Hydrating Sun Serum SPF50+ — £22, Amazon
This new category of sunscreen is particularly useful if you’re oily or prone to spots. “Some sunscreens are richer or more occlusive, which can trap oil, sweat and dead skin cells and lead to clogged pores, particularly in acne-prone skin,” explains Dr Derrick Phillips, consultant dermatologist. “If you’re prone to breakouts, it’s worth looking for lighter, non-comedogenic formulations, such as serum, fluid or gel textures.”
Serum-style formulas also sit more comfortably alongside other skincare products and makeup. Where other formulations can pill or leave your makeup sliding down your face after a couple of hours, many SPF serums double as the perfect base for makeup and even help to control excess oil production.
That said, the guidance surrounding sunscreen application still applies, regardless of whether your SPF is a serum or cream. “You need to wear SPF every day to prevent UVA and UVB rays from damaging the skin,” says Dr Ahmed El Muntasar, GP, aesthetics doctor and owner of The Aesthetics Doctor. “UVA rays are responsible for premature ageing. They’re present all year round and can penetrate glass. Unless you are literally in a dark room or a room with no windows all day, daily SPF is recommended,” he adds.
Unlike traditional serums, SPF serums should be the last step of your routine rather than layered under moisturiser or other skincare products. “Start with cleansing, then apply any treatment products, followed by a moisturiser. Your sunscreen goes on last, before makeup,” explains Dr Phillips. Being generous with your application is important too. “Most people underapply, which significantly reduces the level of protection,” Dr Phillips adds. “As a guide, you need around two finger lengths of product for the face and neck to achieve the SPF on the label.”
Knowing how to apply your sunscreen correctly is key, but picking the right one for your skin can make all the difference as to whether you actually wear it. So, whether you’re giving next-gen SPF serums a first try or you’re simply fed up with your current sunscreen causing clogged pores or spots, read on – I may have found the SPF serum to suit you.
As a beauty journalist of over nine years and someone who wears daily SPF, I have a discerning eye when it comes to testing sunscreen.
For each product, I took note of the texture of the formula, how well it applied, what it felt like on my skin, how it wore under makeup and whether it left a white cast on my skin.
I also considered the price and value for money, any skincare benefits, the packaging and how much I actually enjoyed using it in order to give a well-rounded review.
Despite all of these SPF serums being fantastic in their own way, I’m hard-pressed to put any above SunsolveMD’s Volumize + Restore Sunscreen SPF 40+ PA++++. The perfect option for undetectable, high-level protection, it feels hydrating without being sticky, doesn’t irritate sensitive skin types and actively helps to strengthen a damaged skin barrier.
That being said, my runner-up would have to be La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVAIR Serum Sunscreen SPF50. A great all-rounder and slightly more affordable, it’s an easy product to slot into your skincare routine every morning and won’t wreak havoc with your makeup.
What’s the difference between a chemical and mineral SPF?
“The main difference between a chemical and mineral SPF comes down to how the filters are formulated and how they interact with UV radiation,” explains Dr Phillips. “Mineral sunscreens are made using zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. They sit on the surface of the skin and predominantly absorb UV radiation, converting it into a small amount of heat, with a small degree of reflection and scattering. They begin working as soon as they are applied.”
Chemical sunscreens differ slightly and need to be applied well in advance. “Chemical SPFs contain filters that absorb harmful UV radiation and convert it into heat before it can damage the skin,” says Dr Phillips. “They need to be applied around 15 to 20 minutes before sun exposure to allow an even protective film to form.”
When compared, mineral and chemical sunscreens can behave differently on the skin too. Mineral-based formulas are more likely to leave a white cast but tend to be better tolerated by those with sensitive skin, whereas chemical formulations typically absorb well and leave no residue, but can irritate sensitive skin types.
Can you still tan while wearing sunscreen?
A common misconception is that you can’t tan while wearing sunscreen, but according to Dr El Muntasar, this is far from the truth. “You still tan while wearing sunscreen,” he says. “SPF reduces the amount of UV reaching the skin but does not block it entirely, which is why some tanning can still occur.”
Ask any skin expert and they’ll tell you that a suntan is not recommended for healthy skin and it’s actually a sign of cell damage. So, if you want a healthy glow then fake tan is the way to go.
Is SPF50 better than SPF30?
SPF50 does offer more protection than SPF30, but according to Dr Phillips, the difference is often misunderstood. “SPF30 blocks around 97% of UVB rays, while SPF50 blocks about 98%,” he explains. “That sounds small, but it’s more helpful to look at what gets through. SPF30 allows about 3% of UVB to reach the skin, whereas SPF50 allows around 2% so in relative terms, SPF30 lets through roughly 50% more UV.”
As a general rule, going for a higher sun protection factor is generally more favourable if you want to avoid cell damage and premature ageing, so aim high.
Does makeup with SPF count?
It might be tempting to skip the sunscreen if your makeup contains SPF, but Dr Phillips advises against this. “To achieve the SPF on the label, sunscreen needs to be applied quite generously. In reality, most people apply far less makeup than this, so the level of protection you get is significantly lower than advertised.”
“Make-up with SPF can contribute to your overall protection, but it’s very unlikely to be enough on its own,” says Dr Phillips. “I would still recommend using a dedicated sunscreen as your base layer, with SPF in make-up acting as a useful top up rather than your sole source of protection.”
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