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Pollo al ajillo (Spanish garlic chicken)

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Sherry and garlic are the smells of Spain, of course, but not just because you smell them when you’re there. Sherry smells of warmth, and of complexity – it’s not a one-note ingredient – which backs up what I have felt about Spain as a country. If it’s not a dry one, it can be quite buttery with hints of caramel, especially once you reduce it. Here the sherry vinegar undercuts the sweetness while adding more depth and ‘woodiness’.

This makes an excellent quick dinner. Serve with olive-oil roast potatoes (cooked with either rosemary or thyme), or good bread and a green salad. I know it seems like a pain to keep the thighs on the bone – and in small pieces – but that’s what makes this dish taste so good.

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