The UK staycation that made me ‘son of the year’

I sold our Edinburgh weekend to my mum as a gentle staycation: nice hotels, good food, a bit of fresh air.

What we actually got was a five‑star hotel that floats, food fit for a royal, and the discovery of a hidden city.

By the time we’re back on the train, she has already decided Edinburgh is her new favourite destination in the UK.

The cherry on top? It’s made me Son of the Year. Here’s why.

Old world glamour

Edinburgh has that rare mix of feeling like a proper city break – architecture, history, great restaurants – without the chaos or scale of somewhere like London.

It’s compact enough to explore on foot, but varied enough that every corner feels different. And from London or any of the UK’s major cities, it’s an easy journey by rail or by plane that still makes you feel you’ve ‘gone away’.

We start our trip somewhere that feels like a destination in itself: the Fingal Hotel.

A short cab journey from the station to the Port of Leith leads us to the gangway. Since 2014, this ex-lighthouse vessel has been transformed into a five-star floating hotel.

Greeted at the door, you’re immediately transported to the bygone days of old world luxury.

The ship features 23 cabins, from standard rooms to multi-room suites, a double-height ballroom and a restaurant that not only has 2 AA Rosettes for culinary excellence, but has wined and dined a familiar face from The Royal Family: Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, who made a surprise visit onboard in 2019. 

Our twin room is small but comfortable, and beside the quirky curvature of the flooring and a porthole for a window, you quickly forget you’re floating on water.

Each room is named and inspired by Fingal’s rich history. Ours ‘Muckle Flugga’, after a small island north of Unst in the Shetland Islands which is also home to a lighthouse. 

Outside, the historic port of Leith has evolved into one of Edinburgh’s most vibrant neighbourhoods, packed with independent cafes, boutiques and buzzy bars. It’s relaxed on the surface, but peek inside a window and you’ll find it’s anything but. Full of energy, conversation and an unmistakable hum of a place people genuinely enjoy being.

Even if you’re not staying at the hotel but are in the area for dinner, I can’t recommend The Lighthouse restaurant enough.

If the double Rosettes and the royal approval haven’t yet won you over, the service and menu absolutely will. Order the parsnip soup. I’ll say no more.

Taking the city in style

After an indulgent night onboard Fingal, we swap sea views for a two-night stay at The Rutland Hotel, checking into one of its ginormous two-bedroom apartments.

Right at the west end of Princes Street, the location is hard to beat, with Edinburgh Castle one way and George Street the other.

But it’s the apartment setup that really stands out. It really is abnormally large, stylish and genuinely practical, with a full kitchen, open-plan living area and two proper bedrooms — a welcome sight after a night in a ship’s cabin.

The ultimate Edinburgh itinerary

Even if you’re here for a day, there is much to see and do to get a taste of the Scottish capital.

Start the day with breakfast at The Huxley, which is partnered with The Rutland Hotel and makes for a stylish first stop.

From there, head to the city for shopping. The mix of high-street names, boutiques and gift shops is impressive enough that my mum immediately suggests coming back for her Christmas bits.

For Scotch lovers, go to one of the many stores on the Royal Mile, and take home a small-batch bottle as a souvenir.

After that, make your way to Edinburgh Castle. Although we’re only seeing it from the outside, it still makes for a great selfie spot with an iconic backdrop.

From there, stroll down towards Victoria Street and the Royal Mile, where the cobbles, colourful shopfronts and medieval surroundings make the whole area feel like a living postcard.

The standout attraction

A stop at St Mary’s Close is a must. The underground tour (£25pp) gives you a fascinating glimpse into the city’s hidden past and is one of the most memorable and unique activities to do.

As you descend beneath the Royal Mile, the atmosphere shifts instantly — it’s darker, colder, and steeped in stories that feel eerily close.

The guide brings centuries-old tales to life, from plague outbreaks to the cramped, hidden lives of former residents, making it feel less like a history lesson and more like stepping into another world.

Keep an eye out for the room of dolls and the story about the King’s security dogs (IYKYK), both of which add an extra layer of intrigue, and just the right amount of unease, to an already unforgettable experience.

If you’re visiting in daylight, you can also walk past Holyrood House and take in the exterior, which adds another royal touch to the trip.

Once the sun goes down, head for dinner at Badger & Co, where the food and service are incomparable. Not to mention, the Pinot Noir was so good my connoisseur mum took a snap of the bottle.

And, for the nocturnals among us, squeeze in Monkey Barrel Comedy Club; one of Edinburgh’s beloved local spots for both upcoming and seasoned acts, it’s the perfect low‑key way to send off a really good weekend.

In the end, it wasn’t the floating hotel or the royal‑approved restaurant that sticks with me.

It was the way Edinburgh wraps everything around a simple idea: a relaxing, funny, lightly boozy weekend with my mum that still feels like a proper holiday.

A few landmarks, a lot of laughs and one very photogenic bottle of wine was all it took to make it stick.

And that Son of the Year award? It should be in the post any day now… 

Chris Buswell was a guest of The Fingal Hotel and The Rutland Hotel, but don’t expect us to sugarcoat anything – our reviews are 100% independent.

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