Happy Hacking Keyboard Classic Type-S for $264: The Happy Hacking Keyboard lineup has never been known for cost-effectiveness. This is shown especially with the Pro Classic Type-S, a nearly-$300 keyboard with wired-only connectivity and a distinct lack of bells and whistles. However, the unique layout and Topre switches can pretty much only be found here, and make for a unique tactile typing experience that can’t be matched by many other keyboards. Plus, the massive aftermarket community for Topre keyboards means both repair and customization are incredibly easy and well-documented. They’re a bit pricey, but one of these keyboards could last the rest of your life with a bit of care.
Wooting 80HE for $200: While the technology falls a bit behind the 60HE V2, the 80HE’s larger layout still makes it a fantastic option for anyone who isn’t quite ready to get rid of their F-row and arrow keys. The switches feel great, the magnesium case is incredibly robust, and the Wootility customization interface is both straightforward and incredibly powerful.
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Keychron C1 Pro 8K for $55: I really don’t understand how Keychron can make a keyboard that has mechanical switches, high-quality keycaps, RGB lighting, and an 8,000-Hz polling rate for under $60. It just doesn’t make sense to me. However, the company did it, and the resulting keyboard is really fantastic. If you want something with retro styling, comfortable keycaps, and a satisfying typing sound, you really can’t get a better per-dollar value proposition than the C1 Pro. Keychron’s tactile Super Banana switches are poppy and responsive, and the tray-mount case feels sturdy when typing. The only caveat, and this is hardly an issue for most users, is that this keyboard doesn’t have wireless connectivity.
Logitech Pro X TKL for $190: Logitech makes great keyboards, and the G Pro X TKL is among the best gaming keyboards. It has vibrant RGB LED-backlit keys, a choice of clicky, tactile, or linear switches, and it uses Logitech’s Lightspeed wireless adapter for competitive gaming-level response time. The build quality of this keyboard is slick and stylish. It’s minimal and doesn’t take up much space on your desk, and it has a subtle metallic rim around the edge that gives it a little flair that most plain keyboards lack. The volume wheel in the upper right is smooth and easy to reach, and along the top are handy media controls so you can pause your music when you finally get into a game after a long queue. For my tastes, the more clicky-clacky a keyboard, the better, and the Black Clicky switches have served me well. Each keypress feels like I’m sending tiny thunder down to my game. However, if you prefer something softer, you can choose another switch type. The only thing I dislike is the lack of a numpad—yes, I’m one of those weirdos who prefer having a numpad.
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Logitech Pro X 60 for $130: The Pro X 60 (8/10, WIRED Recommends) has virtually all the benefits of the Pro X TKL in a smaller, more compact package. It keeps the volume wheel, Game mode switch, and Bluetooth/Lightspeed buttons by moving them to the edges of the keyboard, while slimming the whole thing down to a 60 percent layout.
Logitech Pop Keys for $100: The Pop Keys (9/10, WIRED Recommends) is a vibrant line of wireless keyboards that come in a wide variety of color palettes that are delightful. It also uses Logitech’s system for pairing with up to three devices, making it simple to take it between your PC and laptop, or from home to work and back.
Photograph: Eric Ravenscraft
Logitech MX Keys S for $130: The MX Keys S can pair with three devices, making it easy to swap between computers. Its low-profile chiclet-style keys are comfortable, and it uses proximity sensors to activate the key backlight when your hands get near, so it’s easier to see in the dark without wasting battery when you’re not using it. It supports both Mac and Windows layouts, and the keys are tastefully labeled in a way that it’s clear no matter which one you’re using at the time. Battery life is also fantastic, lasting well over a week with normal use, though it gets quite a bit longer life if you disable the backlight.
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Logitech MX Mechanical for $180: With an understated, low-profile design, you can pair the MX Mechanical with up to three devices at once and swap with the push of a button. There are even a few convenient extra buttons just above the numpad to launch a calculator or lock your desktop.
Turtle Beach Vulcan II TKL Pro for $150: The Vulcan II TKL Pro has two LEDs per key, giving it a better resolution for lighting effects. It features Hall effect switches, which should cut down on wear and tear. They’re still satisfyingly clicky, and the volume knob has a comfortably grippy texture. I prefer any keyboard with a volume wheel to one without.
Photograph: Eric Ravenscraft
Corsair K65 for $110: This 75 percent keyboard has some of the softest, most comfortable keys of any board I’ve tested. It’s lightweight enough to toss in a bag but sturdy enough to be your desktop keyboard. It can connect via USB-C, Bluetooth, or a wireless dongle that can be stored in a slot on the rear. A stylish metal volume knob adorns the top-right corner, and every keycap and switch can be swapped out using the included removal tool.
Razer Huntsman Mini for $90: A 60 percent keyboard has 60 percent of the keys normally found on a regular-size keyboard. The numpad and arrow keys are chopped off, and you’re left with the essentials. The Razer Huntsman Mini is one of my favorites of this size for gaming. It feels every bit as responsive and quick as a full-size keyboard, but it takes up a lot less desk space. There’s just something neat and orderly about it. Plus, like the larger Huntsman Elite, the Mini is compatible with Razer’s keycap kits, so you can customize your color scheme.
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Keychron Q1 HE for $240: The Keychron Q1 HE (9/10, WIRED Recommends) is one of the best boards we’ve tested that uses Hall effect switches. You can customize the actuation point to either make keys more sensitive—so you don’t have to press them all the way down for keystrokes to register—or less sensitive, to avoid those fat-finger moments that can ruin competitive games. Keychron even has rapid-trigger settings that allow you to press a key multiple times without the key having to return fully to its resting position. Even outside the benefits of the Hall effect switches, this is another great keyboard in line with the kind that Keychron is known for, so it’s worth a look even if you don’t want to pay that much attention to every aspect of your keys.
Photograph: Eric Ravenscraft
NZXT Function 2 for $110: The original NZXT Function was a great way for anyone interested in mechanical keyboards to jump in without getting overwhelmed. The follow-up Function 2 (8/10, WIRED Recommends) improves on it in almost every way. It upgrades the keys to optical switches and comes with a spare set of switches that have a little more (or a little less) resistance, so you can customize specific keys based on your needs. I found this particularly useful for games like Overwatch 2, where I’d like to cut down on those fat-finger ultimates that are so embarrassing. The Function 2 retains many of my favorite features from the first model. It has the same left-side volume roller, super-soft keycaps, and convenient buttons along the side of the keyboard. If you’re interested in mechanical keyboards but are intimidated by phrases like “actuation force,” this is a great board to get started with.
Razer Huntsman V3 Pro TKL for $160: The Huntsman V3 Pro TKL is a robust keyboard for those who like to tweak their gaming setup. It uses Razer’s analog optical switches, which are satisfyingly clicky. On the top right, there’s a media knob that controls the volume, which you can also click to mute. However, it’s the buttons around it that are most interesting. To the left, there are two programmable macro keys you can use to customize different commands for your games (or your work). Below, on the navigation keys, are six profile shortcuts. Hold Fn and press one of them, and you can swap between several preset profiles, tailored to specific gaming needs like FPS mode, Racing mode, or High-Sensitivity mode when you need to pull off that hair trigger. All of this can be customized in the Razer Synapse app. We’ve tested a lot of keyboards with different customization options, but this one is particularly good for gamers who swap profiles a lot. The keyboard connects using a USB-C cable, included with the device, and it also comes with a magnetic wrist rest.
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Razer BlackWidow V4 75% for $130: The Razer BlackWidow V4 (8/10, WIRED Recommends) has a sturdy metal casing, hot-swappable switches, and Razer’s robust Synapse software for customizing your keyboard. It’s also earned our top marks if you’re looking for a mechanical keyboard specifically for gaming. The 75 percent layout is small enough that you can leave plenty of room for your mouse, making those flicks to land a headshot that much easier in competitive games. The 8,000-Hz polling rate also helps cut down on the times that you miss activating an ability by that almost imperceptible fraction of a second.
SteelSeries Apex Pro for $199: Rather than choose one switch for the Apex Pro keyboard, SteelSeries decided to allow them all. Not only is it a colorful gaming keyboard with lots of bells and whistles, but it also features mechanical switches that can be customized per key to give you a typing experience unique to you. Plus, it has a little LED display for system alerts, volume, and other fun stuff you can toy with using SteelSeries’ included software.
Corsair K100 RGB Mechanical Gaming Keyboard for $325: In most ways, the Corsair K100 RGB is a fairly standard keyboard, with RGB backlights, a few programmable macro keys, and a volume roller. What sets it apart, however, is the control wheel in the top-left corner. This dial can scrub through media, control the lighting on the keyboard, and control several other built-in functions. The dial can also be customized. In my testing, this could be a little finicky in certain applications—I couldn’t get it to properly scrub through the timeline in Premiere Pro, for example—but it’s still a handy tool you rarely get on other boards.
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Keyboards to Avoid
Razer Pro Type Ergo: While this keyboard is solid and feels good to type on, the $200 price point seems far too high for what it is. Having a plastic case and laptop-like chiclet-style 66 keys, it won’t blow your socks off. Unless you desperately need Chroma RGB lighting, or have some other reason to stay within the Razer ecosystem, there are much more affordable options that offer nearly-identical usability.
What Kinds of Keyboards Are There?
Generally, keyboards are defined by two specific design choices: the layout and the type of switches they use. A switch is the mechanism underneath a key that controls how the switch is pressed down. The layout can easily be seen by looking at a keyboard, but the switches can be a bit more difficult to guess from general observation. Here are the most common you’ll see:
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Scissor switches are among the most widespread types of keyboard switches available today, found in nearly every consumer laptop and countless slim keyboards, including the Apple Magic Keyboard. These switches are incredibly compact and have a short travel distance, which makes them ideal for anything portable. Their low profile, flat shape, and short travel distance means they can be quick to type on, but they often lack the enjoyable tactile experience of a thicker keyboard. These switches are often also referred to as chiclet switches, a not-quite-accurate name that comes from the small amount of space between each key.
Membrane switches are one of the least expensive switches to manufacture, and are widespread even today in schools and offices. They typically consist of a sheet of rubber domes with electrical contacts inside of them, which then have keycaps put on top. When one of these keys is pressed down, it compresses the rubber dome and registers a key press. These keyboards are waterproof and reliable, but they have a key press that is typically described as mushy and unpleasant.
Mechanical switches are fairly widespread in enthusiast circles, but the actual definition of a “mechanical” switch is debatable. However, for this guide’s purpose, a “mechanical switch” will typically refer to a switch that uses the same design as a Cherry MX switch and has a metal “leaf” on the inside, which is two pieces of metal that are pressed together to register an input. ThereminGoat has a great in-depth guide on how a mechanical switch works and what all the components do. There are three main types of MX-style mechanical switches, tactile,linear, and clicky, that we discuss in-depth in our mechanical keyboard buying guide.
Low-profile mechanical switches rely on principles similar to a standard mechanical switch, but they compress the movement into a much shorter switch. They typically have a shorter key press, use unique keycaps, and are less standardized than full-size mechanical switches. Because they’re shorter, they are typically used for either low-profile keyboards or uniquely shaped keys on a standard keyboard (like the mouse buttons on the HHKB Studio).
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Hall effect switches are typically similar to mechanical switches in shape, and will feel comparable to type on, but the key difference is how they register an input. A mechanical switch requires physical contact between two components, while a Hall effect switch uses magnets and sensors to determine whether a key has been pressed down. With most Hall effect keyboards, the sensor can detect how far the key has been pressed, and you can actually program the keys to only register an input at a certain distance, or even to register multiple inputs at different distances. By comparison, a standard mechanical switch will only register an input at a predetermined distance. While a Hall effect switch may seem like an all-around upgrade compared to a mechanical switch, there is still a trade-off: Nearly every Hall effect switch available is linear, which means there is no bump or click when the keyboard registers an input. Beyond that, because of small differences in their internal designs, many enthusiasts prefer the typing feel of a mechanical switch.
There are so many factors to consider when picking the right keyboard for your needs that it can get overwhelming. Not everyone has the same needs, and many aspects of a keyboard can seem universally desirable to some while being utterly polarizing to others. Here are a few things to keep in mind:
Mechanical, or no? If you like big, clicky keyboards with raised keys that make a statement, mechanical keyboards might be for you. This is also a rabbit hole that many nerds have lost themselves in, so it can be overwhelming to dive into the nuance of all the different styles in this subgroup. If you’re more a fan of the flat, chiclet-style keyboards found on low-profile keyboards (and laptops), you can save yourself a lot of time by skipping the mechanical keyboard rush. On the other hand, if you do want mechanical, we have a few in this guide you can check out, but we also have a dedicated Best Mechanical Keyboard guide you should peruse.
Wireless or wired? Wired keyboards have the advantage of never dying and never needing to be charged up. The disadvantages are, well, obvious. If you need a wireless keyboard to take with you to the office and back home, or just want more flexibility on your desk, then make sure to check a keyboard’s battery life, what kind of batteries it uses (rechargeable is usually better), and what kind of system it uses for recharging.
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Wireless connectivity options. Some wireless keyboards use a 2.4-GHz USB dongle to connect to your PC or laptop, which often means more reliable signal strength, while others use Bluetooth to connect to a wider range of devices. Bluetooth keyboards in general are pretty great these days, so it’s not a huge sacrifice, but pay attention to how you need to connect the keyboard to your devices when making a purchase.
Number of device connections. Similarly, some wireless keyboards can remember multiple devices they connect to and swap between them with the press of a button. If you have a desktop, a laptop, and a work computer you want to use one keyboard with, it’s a good idea to check how many devices your keyboard can remember when making your choice.
Polling rate. As mentioned, this refers to how often per second your computer receives a signal from your keyboard. Modern keyboards already approach 1,000 Hz (or once every millisecond), which is faster than what most people ever need. However, if you play a lot of fast-paced competitive games online, having a higher polling rate (commonly approaching 8,000 Hz, or eight checks every millisecond) can reduce the time between when you press a key and when the game registers it. Which, when you’re dodging headshots, can mean the difference between life and virtual death.
Software. With most keyboards today advertising extensive customization options, it’s important to be sure these adjustments can be done easily and quickly. Some keyboards have great customization software with explanations, tool tips, and intuitive systems to make adjustments, and some don’t. Software like Razer Synapse, Keychron’s Launcher, and Wooting’s Wootility are some of my favorites, and I’d definitely recommend doing some research on your keyboard’s software before locking in your choice.
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The Keyboard Terms You Should Know
Hz, or hertz, refers to the polling rate of a keyboard. In essence, this number is how many times the keyboard communicates with your computer in one second. Your average computer peripheral operates at 125 Hz, while higher-end equipment with a focus on speed can operate upwards of 1,000 Hz. Realistically, for everyday use, 125 Hz is perfectly serviceable. Having something higher can be beneficial for gaming, and can potentially feel smoother, but the difference is not as important as you would think.
2.4 GHz, short for 2.4 gigahertz, is a radio frequency that computer peripherals use to communicate wirelessly with a USB dongle. Most keyboards with 2.4-GHz connectivity will also have Bluetooth connectivity, but there are many keyboards that have Bluetooth without 2.4 GHz. There are many differences between how the two operate and how they perform, but the main ones are connection quality and convenience. A Bluetooth connection will often operate at a lower polling rate, such as 125 Hz or 250 Hz, but can connect directly to a Bluetooth-enabled device without a dongle. A 2.4-GHz connection, on the other hand, can operate at much higher polling rates (some devices exceed 1,000 Hz) but will require a USB port to plug a dongle into. For either connection method, the wireless range is dependent on the individual device.
Gasket mounting is a method of keyboard construction that has become popular in recent years. In a gasket-mounted keyboard, the internal assembly of the keyboard is not directly screwed into the case. Instead, rubber gaskets are placed along the edges of the top and bottom halves of the case. These press together around the internal assembly and hold it in place once the two halves have been screwed together. This allows the internal assembly to move up and down slightly when typing, along with absorbing the vibrations of typing. This kind of assembly typically results in a softer and more satisfying typing experience, while also improving the sound of the keyboard by removing any extra noises.
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Function layers are secondary layouts on a keyboard that allow for inputs that don’t have dedicated keys on the keyboard. These are often accessed by holding down a key labeled “Fn” or “Function,” then pressing another key. Function layers allow for multimedia controls, setting adjustments, or access to keys like F1 through F12, or arrow keys, if they were removed from the keyboard to save space.
I test each keyboard on this list for an extended period of time: at least a week, and often longer. I test each under a diverse set of conditions including gaming, writing, internet browsing, video and photo editing, and even some programming. During this, I take extensive notes on how a keyboard behaves, what works, and where I run into trouble. Once I’ve finished testing a keyboard in real-life situations, I compare it to other keyboards to see how it stacks up, and I typically try to disassemble each keyboard and critique its internal assembly.
When determining what goes in this guide, I take multiple different aspects into account. The largest priorities to me are build quality, typing experience, and ease-of-use: A solid keyboard that feels good to type on will typically score better than a flimsy and boring keyboard, even if the flimsy keyboard has fantastic software, style, or typing sound. However, all of these metrics come into consideration, and if a keyboard totally fails in a certain category, that can still take it out of the running.
Keyboards are subjective, so I try to approach each review with an open mind. Even if I don’t like typing on a keyboard, I always try to imagine a user who might like it, and I evaluate its design choices from that perspective along with my own. Ultimately, you will know better than anyone else whether a keyboard is a good fit for you.
Copilot’s gurning blob is leaving Voice for a new career in education
Microsoft has yanked Mico from the Copilot spotlight less than a year after unveiling the anthropomorphic assistant intended to make its AI a little less soulless.
As part of Microsoft’s announcement that its consumer and work Copilot applications will merge, the company confirmed that the weird blob thing would shuffle out of Copilot Voice and into Learn Live, a voice-based study mode that guides users through subjects and assignments.
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“Mico helped us learn about warmth, expressiveness, and how people want to talk with AI,” Microsoft wrote. “Those learnings are shaping Copilot going forward.”
“Learn is where the character has the most room to grow, with tutoring sessions that give Mico more to react to and teach through.”
As the update rolls out, Mico will no longer be the face of Copilot Voice. Users can still speak to Copilot and receive responses, but will be spared the blob’s gurning.
Mico is only the latest in Microsoft’s long line of anthropomorphic assistants. There was Clippy (or Clippit), which arrived with Office 97 but had been pushed into Microsoft’s desk drawer of doom by the time Office 2007 appeared. Then came Cortana, named after the character from the Halo video game franchise and pitched as a far more intelligent assistant. Microsoft introduced Cortana on Windows Phone in 2014 and brought it to PCs with Windows 10 the following year, before losing interest.
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Mico didn’t even last a year as the face of Copilot Voice before Microsoft pulled it from the spotlight, although both the character and its Copilot “brain” live on in Learn Live. In terms of lifespans, it’s easy to compare it to the catastrophic Microsoft Bob, which was launched in 1995, with the last release happening that same year. However, the product lingered a little longer and later resurfaced, hidden as digital ballast on the Windows XP installation CD for licensing and encryption.
Modern digital distribution means that such a second life is unlikely to await Mico. Dave Plummer, the engineer responsible for Bob’s inclusion as an encrypted blob, said: “What’s ultimately important is that while Bob never got to play on the big stage, he always followed the band around and got to ride on the bus.”
Mico hasn’t been thrown off the bus just yet. Microsoft has merely made the blob sit with the schoolchildren. ®
A new Mirai-based modular Linux botnet malware called Evooo1Bot has been targeting internet-facing gateway devices, turning them into SOCKS5 traffic relay nodes.
The malware’s capabilities extend beyond turning devices into proxy nodes and include credential theft, SSH brute-forcing, and launching distributed denial-of-service (DDoS) attacks.
Since at least July, Evooo1Bot has been targeting devices from Alcatel, NETGEAR, Tenda, Mitsubishi Electric, Telesquare, and D-Link across various regions by exploiting known vulnerabilities.
Evooo1Bot’s current geographical spread Source: Fortinet
“While the malware reuses the DDoS engine from the publicly leaked Mirai source code, it extends the original framework with numerous capabilities, including encrypted C2 communications, an SSH brute-force scanner, a SOCKS relay module, a credential sniffer, and an integrated exploit arsenal targeting multiple known vulnerabilities,” Fortinet researchers found.
Newer builds include a separate vulnerability-exploitation module targeting Hikvision cameras, Atlassian Confluence, Zyxel firewalls, TP-Link routers, D-Link NAS devices, WSO2 products, Kubernetes ingress-nginx, and vulnerable PHP-CGI installations.
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However, Fortinet notes that some of the embedded exploits are not correctly implemented, leading to failed exploitation.
When leveraging an exploit successfully, a script downloads one of the 12 available malware builds that match the host’s CPU architecture, then clears Bash history to wipe traces of the attack.
Evooo1Bot uses encrypted command-and-control (C2) communications over port 443 and performs extensive checks for debuggers, security tools, sandboxes, virtual machines, containers, and honeypots before it launches on the infected device.
Persistence is established through systemd, SysV init, shell profiles, and rc.local, while a cron job attempts to re-download the payload every five minutes.
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The malware’s modules Source: Fortinet
An interactive shell gives operators direct control over compromised systems, while file-transfer commands support uploads and downloads.
The malware also features a credential sniffer module that monitors ‘/proc/net/tcp’ and attempts to capture HTTP Basic Authentication and Cookie headers.
The SOCKS5 module supports direct listening and reverse-relay modes, allowing attackers to conceal malicious traffic, circumvent geographic restrictions, or potentially access networks through compromised systems.
Fortinet says proxying sessions run independently, and multiple can be opened simultaneously, allowing monetization through residential proxy services if the botnet grows large enough.
The SSH scanner module uses 150 username and password combinations for enterprise-oriented accounts, and performs post-login checks to avoid honeypots.
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Finally, the DDoS module that was inherited by Mirai supports 16 flood methods, including UDP, DNS, SYN, ACK, GRE, fragmented TCP, and an HTTP flood with customizable requests.
To defend against botnet malware, keep your IoT devices’ firmware updated, replace default admin credentials, turn off remote access panels, and replace devices when the vendor no longer provides support for them.
Overall prevention scores can hide what happens after initial access. Once attackers are using valid credentials, prevention drops sharply.
The Blue Report 2026 measures defenses technique by technique across 338 million simulations run in customer production environments.
The big picture: The RAM crisis has made the latest hardware so unaffordable that components from four years ago are storming sales charts. AMD and Nvidia have already responded to the demand by re-releasing chips from 2022, and now Intel is poised to follow suit.
Robert Hallock, Intel’s vice president and general manager of enthusiast channel business, recently told Tom’s Hardware that the company plans to continue offering Raptor Lake CPUs, first launched in 2022, for a while longer. Intel, like AMD, is responding to sustained demand for hardware that supports DDR4 RAM.
During a lengthy interview, Hallock noted a spike in demand for Alder Lake and Raptor Lake processors, which have recently become harder to find. While the exec did not mention specific products, he confirmed that the company aims to stabilize and maintain the supply of 10-nanometer chips that support Intel’s LGA 1700 socket “for years to come.”
The comments align with prior rumors that Intel might introduce another refresh for Raptor Lake – the lineup’s third – during the first half of 2027. Tom’s Hardware heard reports on the topic during Computex earlier this year, where at least two motherboard vendors also confirmed plans to increase production of aging LGA 1700-compatible boards to meet rising demand. Intel’s rumored refresh, tentatively dubbed Raptor Lake Next, would exist alongside the DDR5-exclusive Nova Lake.
Surging demand for processors and mainboards that support the supposedly obsolete DDR4 memory is likely due to RAM shortages driven by AI data centers. The price of DDR5 RAM has skyrocketed over the past year, driving PC users to either purchase DDR4 memory at much lower (but still inflated) prices or hold onto the RAM they already have. Raptor Lake CPUs support DDR4 and DDR5 memory, giving buyers the opportunity to upgrade without replacing an entire PC.
AMD has already responded to the situation by re-releasing the Ryzen 7 5800X3D, the CPU that introduced 3D V-Cache in 2022. The ongoing crisis has also turned the modest Ryzen 5 5500 into the reigning budget CPU king. While the company offers better processors at similar prices, such as the 7500F and 9800X3D, they all require DDR5 RAM.
The trend has even affected Nvidia GPUs. While tightening stocks of GDDR7 VRAM have increased the prices of the company’s latest RTX 5000-series graphics cards and delayed the launch of the RTX 5000 Super cards, Nvidia has revived the 12GB RTX 3060, also from 2022, as a temporary substitute.
It’s not a controversial statement to say that energy bills are high these days, and that finding ways to lower these costs is essential to the modern budget. Consumer Reports offers helpful tips for lowering energy bills, though one of the biggest difference-makers is seeking out an alternative energy source to offset traditional energy consumption. Arguably the most popular option is solar, but wind power shouldn’t be overlooked in its own right. Installing a wind turbine at home isn’t just possible; it’s an effective method of cutting a sizeable percentage from your energy bill — though it is a pricey investment, ranging from $20,000 to $50,000 on average for a full-size unit.
On the whole, there’s potential for a wind turbine setup to save a significant amount of money every year on energy. Estimates place a small system as possibly dropping bills by between 50% and 90% in the absolute best conditions. With a battery setup, storing wind energy for later use is a possibility, too, and that’s not even getting into the environmental benefits. As a clean energy source, wind turbines don’t produce harmful emissions, nor do they require fossil fuels for power or water for cooling, so you’ll have peace of mind knowing much of your home energy production is environmentally conscious.
With all of that said, setting up a home wind turbine or two isn’t accomplished in an afternoon. It takes the right parts, expertise, documentation, and setup to reap the many benefits of this renewable energy source.
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1. A sufficient location
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Before purchasing a single wind turbine part or planning where to set it up, you need to assess if your home is in an ideal place for wind power to begin with. Naturally, even smaller wind turbines require ample wind, with residential turbines needing approximately 7 miles per hour (mph) of wind to generate power. All kinds of obstacles, including high surrounding buildings, tall trees, or even tight-knit homes in neighborhood environments, can restrict or divert wind gusts away from the turbine, limiting the potential for energy production. Thus, in such an area, wind power might not be worth the effort, and instead one of the other green energy alternatives for homes could be the answer.
If you’re comfortable moving, there are some regions worth considering for their wind energy viability. The most wind turbine-friendly areas within the United States include seacoasts, ridgelines, and throughout the Great Plains region, so if you want to try wind power, these areas are the way to go. With that said, you’re not strictly limited to these parts of the country. So long as there’s consistent wind movement to keep the turbine blades turning at a sufficient speed and a lack of wind-inhibiting obstacles, you’ll generate some amount of electricity for your home to run on.
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2. The necessary permits and certifications
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So, you’re ready to set up your residential turbine, but you can’t get started just yet. As any homeowner could tell you, building on your property isn’t simple. Wind turbines are no exception, being both a home improvement project you shouldn’t tackle yourself and an endeavor demanding extensive paperwork. Worse yet, there can be some legal inconsistencies from region to region, so it’s a good idea to start local with your documentation journey to make sure you don’t miss any key parts. Your chosen installer is a valuable resource at this step, since they should be able to acquire the necessary permits and certifications before beginning.
Generally speaking, a valid building permit is required to construct a wind turbine at your residence. To connect it to your power grid, you’ll need to reach out to your local utility for approval and assistance with this setup. At this point, you may have the opportunity to enter a net metering agreement with them to sell off any excess energy your turbine produces, so this could be a nice moneymaking venture, too. You should also be mindful of the color and patterning of your wind turbine, as some areas are highly specific regarding their appearance. During all of this paperwork, don’t forget to look into the potential tax benefits and general incentives turbines can qualify you for.
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3. Professional help
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Setting up residential wind power requires more than a few helping hands. Professional help is crucial to getting everything installed safely and correctly. As far as setting up the turbine, while a crew of capable friends and family members could get a guyed turbine raised and stabilized, a large self-supported tower will more than likely require more experienced hands. A concrete foundation is required, and depending on the size of the tower and turbine, heavy machinery could be necessary to move and stand everything up.
Structural labor aside, the electrical side of wind turbine setup isn’t for the faint of heart. Whether you’re connecting to the power grid or opting to connect the turbine to a battery, you need to have a strong understanding of how electrical systems work and how to safely work on them. Otherwise, you could add to the list of major electrical mistakes you don’t want to make at home. Thus, you’ll want to hire someone familiar with this type of wiring, and for all setup steps for your turbine, you’ll want to budget accordingly to cover these professionals’ services.
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4. The turbine and tower
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With your space determined, paperwork done, and professionals lined up, you can turn your attention to the turbine itself, as well as the associated items needed to run and utilize it. First, you want to assess what size turbine you want in terms of energy production. Home turbines range from 400 watts to 100 kilowatts, so you should do some research into what your dwelling needs. This power need will determine the size of the turbine, which can come in multiple forms. Most common are horizontal turbines, though vertical turbines — available in S-shaped Savonius and oval Darrieus forms — are possibilities for your setup, too.
Under the turbine goes the tower, to which it must be mounted in order to catch the wind and turn it into electricity. It’s recommended that the tower leave at least a 30-foot gap between the bottom-most part of the turbine and grounded obstacles within 300 feet for safety reasons. They come in two main variations: self-supported, concrete foundation-bound towers and guyed towers, characterized by pipe or tubing, stabilizing guy wires, and an anchor. Investing in a tilt-down tower for easier maintenance isn’t a bad idea either, assuming it doesn’t uncomfortably strain your budget. Of course, roof-mounted turbines like those from Ridgeblade are out there as well for those limited on yard space.
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5. The electrical elements
Now that the wind turbine and mounting tower have been selected, the next step is the more technical part of a home wind setup. There are several key electrical elements to bring together that will allow the turbine to actually do its job. If you’re planning to connect your turbine directly to the home’s power grid, you’ll need a power conditioning unit, which is also known as an inverter. This is necessary to make the system’s direct-current output compatible with the alternating-current grid, making it safe and usable. That said, even without hard-wiring into the grid, an inverter is still necessary.
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Should you keep your turbine independent of the existing power grid, you’ll need something else to store and channel that wind-generated power. This is where a battery setup comes into play, taking in the energy and holding onto it during periods of low wind. Alongside the battery itself, you’ll need a battery charge controller to prevent it from overloading and overheating, in addition to an inverter. While some appliances can use DC power directly from the battery, most will need DC-to-AC conversion to work safely. In either case, it’s paramount to consult a professional electrician to ensure these volatile electrical elements are set up correctly.
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How these elements were selected
Sven Loeffler/Getty Images
To choose these elements for a home wind turbine installation, we took a multifaceted approach to researching the build. For one, there’s the actual selection and setup of the wind turbine itself, and the associated construction necessary. These parts of the process aren’t cheap or simple, so being aware of all of the elements needed to get such a system up and running is crucial. Not to mention, it’s a good idea to be aware of the potential cost range for this effort; this way, those considering wind power know if they can realistically afford such an undertaking.
Aside from the actual wind turbine planning, setup, and use, there are the location and paperwork-related aspects. Wind turbines need to be set up in specific areas with ample wind to achieve the owner’s energy production goals; they need to be built within the local laws and regulations in the area to avoid any legal trouble; and they should be set up by those who actually know what they’re doing. Homeowners need to know that there’s a lot of paperwork, phone calls, and planning involved to get this set up from a hypothetical to a usable reality.
Sam Altman told a summit of tech interns that two years of college was “the exact right amount of time” for him and that four years may be more than the world now requires. He made the case to an audience whose entry-level pipeline is already being closed by AI.
Sam Altman thinks a degree takes longer than it needs to. Two years at Stanford was “the exact right amount of time” for him, the OpenAI chief said, and staying would have brought “vastly diminishing returns.”
He was talking to tech interns. The remarks came during a surprise appearance at Internapalooza, a networking summit run by investor Cory Levy for students spending the summer in the industry.
“I’ve sort of thought that maybe the way the world has evolved, college just shouldn’t be as long as it is,” Altman said, while allowing that it was “still great to meet people and kind of like live on your own and get to work on projects.”
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The audience is what complicates it. TNW has reported that AI is killing the summer internship, the mechanism that has long converted students into employees.
Nor is that only an American problem. A Swiss study found fewer job ads aimed at career starters as automation absorbed the tasks juniors used to be hired for.
Altman’s other advice pointed the same way without meaning to. “You can make a whole startup kind of by yourself in a room with a lot of AI tokens, but not much else,” he said.
Heard from a founder’s chair that is liberating. Heard from an internship, it is a description of a job that might not need filling.
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Not everyone reads the trend that way. Adecco’s chief executive has argued that AI is changing jobs rather than destroying them, which is the more optimistic case and not an unreasonable one.
The rest of the session was conventional founder advice. People waste effort trying to be taken seriously, Altman said, though he conceded that enterprise sales was the exception and that he eventually solved it by hiring a 50-year-old.
His own route is worth remembering before anyone acts on this. Altman left Stanford in 2005 to co-found Loopt, which landed in Y Combinator’s first batch and led to him running the incubator, while his mentor Peter Thiel pays $250,000 over two years to under-22s on condition they drop out. As Altman put it himself, “you don’t get to run the experiment twice.“
What we know so far: Cybersecurity researchers have uncovered at least three new vulnerabilities that could potentially allow attackers to gain system privileges even on patched Windows computers. These include a memory configuration chip exploit named “Download more RAM,” a zero-day flaw dubbed “ShieldBreak,” and a “plug and pwn” exploit that could install malware remotely over RDP.
The “Download More RAM” vulnerability, which was presented at the 2026 USENIX Security Symposium in Baltimore, was discovered by researchers from the University of Birmingham and Durham University. It reportedly allows malicious actors to bypass Windows 11 security and gain system privileges without physical access by exploiting the lack of write protection on consumer memory modules.
The vulnerability allows anybody to remotely rewrite the Serial Presence Detect configuration chip that notifies the computer about the amount of installed RAM in the system. Attackers can take advantage of this vulnerability to transmit fake information to the computer, tricking it into believing that it has twice as much RAM installed as it actually does.
The false data tricks the memory controller into mapping additional pseudo-addresses, which overlap with genuine addresses. The aliases allow attackers to create a backdoor into memory by circumventing security and access control mechanisms used by the operating system and the processor.
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The vulnerability could potentially allow hackers to re-enable old drivers with known exploits, disable anti-malware software, break into virtualization-based security enclaves, change corporate device management settings, and even bypass kernel-level anti-cheat systems used by video games.
Professor Tom Chothia from the University of Birmingham noted that the attack only requires a script that can be deployed remotely, while previous attacks of this kind required physical access to the machine. He added that major memory brands, including Corsair, G.Skill, and ADATA, ship at least one model line with an unprotected configuration chip in violation of JEDEC guidelines.
Tracked as CVE-2026-23670, the vulnerability has been acknowledged by both Microsoft and Corsair. While Microsoft issued mitigations in its April 2026 update, Corsair has added a feature to its iCue hardware management tool, allowing users to enable write protection on their DIMMs. PC diagnostic app HWiNFO has also added the same feature for non-Corsair users.
There’s also a zero-day vulnerability called ShieldBreak, found by bug hunter Nightmare Eclipse. Tracked as CVE-2026-50656, it’s an elevation-of-privilege vulnerability in Microsoft Defender that can circumvent the RoguePlanet patch and allow attackers to gain system privileges on Windows 10, Windows 11, and Windows Server. However, Microsoft Defender has to be active for the exploit to work.
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Finally, security researchers Alejandro Hernando and Borja Martinez have described a new “plug and pwn” attack that exploits Windows’ automatic hardware identification and driver installation process to install signed vendor driver packages with system-level privileges.
Presented at DEF CON 34 in Las Vegas, the vulnerability can be exploited without admin privileges and without a logged-in user. In their proof-of-concept demo, the researchers also showed that the attack can be performed remotely over RDP without connecting any physical USB hardware to the target device.
Some 1.6 million unique email addresses tied to RingCentral have been leaked online, alongside names, physical addresses, and phone numbers, according to Have I Been Pwned. RingCentral disclosed the breach on July 28 and said “it was the target of a sophisticated social engineering campaign” affecting a “limited portion of RingCentral customers.”
The comms platform said that it promptly responded to the intrusion upon detecting it, “took steps to stop the unauthorized activity,” and immediately launched an investigation into the security incident with help from a “leading third-party forensic firm.”
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“We have not seen any new unauthorized activity since taking these remediation efforts,” the company added.
RingCentral did not immediately respond to The Register’s request for comment on this story. We will update it as needed.
While the company hasn’t named its attacker, notorious data theft and extortion gang ShinyHunters previously claimed it compromised the collaboration platform, according to a post on its data leak site, viewed by The Register. Screenshots of the post also circulated on social media. The crooks claimed they stole more than 623 GB of data, and set a July 30 deadline for RingCentral to pay up – or else the crew would dump the stolen information online.
RingCentral apparently didn’t pay the extortion demand, and ShinyHunters followed through on its threat, posting customers’ details on the internet.
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“The company failed to reach an agreement with us despite our incredible patience, all the chances and offers we made. They don’t care,” the crims wrote on August 3.
A ShinyHunters spokesperson told us that the group broke into RingCentral by voice-phishing an employee and tricking them into giving the crooks their password.
The crooks claim that they made off with more than 30 million rows of customer information, including more than one million Social Security numbers and 7.5 million dates of birth. More concerning, however, they said the haul includes 22 million-plus rows of client notes containing confidential doctor-patient conversations and health information, and more than 20 million medical-order records containing patient IDs, prescription types, order dates, and refill information.®
Editor’s note: This story was amended post-publication with comment from ShinyHunters.
After long evenings spent designing mechanisms and calibrating movement, a New Zealand engineer named Bruce finished a system that mounts directly onto an ordinary acoustic guitar and turns digital tablature into live string vibration. He calls it MegCell Pulse. Two coordinated robots handle the work of human hands. One presses the strings against the frets. The other plucks them with six individual plectrums. The sound that reaches the room is the actual instrument speaking, complete with the body resonance and the space around it.
Bruce began this project as an engineer rather than a musician, drawing on his skills in naval engineering, composite work, CAD drawings, and automation. In spare hours after his day job he kept asking what would happen if digital music instructions could drive a real guitar instead of a speaker. He spent roughly 6 or 7 years tinkering with the concept and its variants. The majority of the build is completed on a normal 3D printer, with the remaining parts sourced from a basic list that anybody can order. The software translates ordinary digital tablature into a precise timing signal for the actuators, and it does so without requiring special programming for each song.
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After you put the frames onto the guitar, some gears and magnetic actuators begin moving the arms, which is quite cool. The fretting side simply presses each string in the proper location between the frets, while the plucking side strikes individual strings in sequence or all at once, depending on the file you imported. Timing remains fixed to the digital instructions, ensuring consistent performance from one run to the next. All the user has to do is load a tab file and hit play: the robots will do the rest, while the wooden body and strings generate the tone.
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One of the most practical applications allows a human to handle only the plucking, leaving the fretting to the machine. A single-handed musician may complete a full arrangement this way, as Bruce has demonstrated in a video where the robot supplies the left-hand section while a person handles the right, which feels rather natural.
There are a few things it can’t do currently, such as not covering the entire fretboard or doing that nice sliding between frets for legato lines, but the limitations are real, and it still covers a large range of pieces if they are first available as digital tablature. The method focuses on accuracy and consistency rather than trying to record every single human flourish, which keeps the performances sounding rather clean.
No finished units are shipped from the factory, but Kickstarter backers receive the complete digital product, which includes STL files for the printed pieces, a detailed assembly guide, control software, and a parts list. The top tier was one hundred dollars. Once printed and assembled, the owner can simply fix or change it at home. That way, the project remains accessible while still allowing the design to grow and evolve in response to user feedback. [Source]
If you want the best quality out of your Bluetooth audio, it’s worth reviewing some settings.
Blackcat/Getty Images
Bluetooth is perhaps one of the most enigmatic technologies around. Fittingly symbolized by Scandinavian runes and named after a king who likely had a nasty dental problem, this mysterious technology that transports data through the air is fairly difficult to fully comprehend in and of itself. To further complicate things, there are Bluetooth codecs — which determine the quality of the audio you hear — to contend with, but these are actually simpler than they seem once you learn the terminology.
Codec comes from the words “coder” and “decoder,” and is the method in which your audio data is communicated from the source to your Bluetooth headphones or speakers. They’re essentially like different languages — they’re all communicating the same thing (your audio files), but doing so differently depending on the codec. Each codec has different limitations, as do the devices you’re using. Even Bluetooth itself, despite improvements over the years, can only handle so much data: it caps out at around 2 Mbps, and no Bluetooth device can currently handle true lossless audio unless they simultaneously utilize a Wi-Fi connection.
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Understanding Bluetooth codecs
Which Bluetooth codec is best is situational, dependent upon what devices you’re using to send and receive audio and the quality of the audio itself. To best understand the difference between codecs, there are a few different measurements that are important to know. In simplified terms, it all comes down to bits of data.
Bit rate: How much data is sent per second; the more data that can be sent at once, the more of the original quality of the audio is preserved
Audio bit depth: This is the number of bits in each second of audio, which impacts the highs and lows of audio able to be communicated on the other side; the higher the bit depth, the better the dynamic range
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Sample rate (kHz): The sample rate of the music per second — essentially how many times a snapshot of the audio is captured. The more it’s sampled, the more accurate the snapshot. The most common sample rate in music production is 44.1kHz, which means that 44,100 snapshots are captured per second.
The standard codec is SBC, which is receivable by and included on every Bluetooth device. For all other codecs, it’s a case-by-case basis for whether they’ll be compatible with your device, making it important to check the finer details on your headphones or speakers. Some codecs, like the Sony-developed LDAC and Samsung Scalable, are proprietary, making the tech that supports it more niche. Though AptX codecs are more widely supported, it’s still a family of codecs owned by Qualcomm, meaning that some (like AptX HD) require specific licensing if you want to, say, use it on your PC. Looking at just the raw data, this is how the most common Bluetooth codecs compare.
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Which Bluetooth codec is best?
sdx15/Shutterstock
Looking at just the raw data, this is how the most common Bluetooth codecs compare:
Codec
Max Bit Rate
Max Audio Depth
Max Sample Rate
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SBC
345 kbps
16-bit
48 kHz
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AAC
264 kbps
16-bit
44.1 kHz
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AptX
352 kbps
16-bit
48 kHz
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AptX HD
576 kbps
24-bit
48 kHz
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AptX Adaptive
420 kbps
24-bit
96 kHz
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AptX Lossless
1.2 mbps
24-bit
96 kHz
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LDAC
990 kbps
24-bit
96 kHz
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LHDC
900 kbps
24-bit
96 kHz
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LC3
345 kbps
32-bit
48 kHz
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Samsung Scalable
512 kbps
24-bit
44.1 kHz
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There are still other factors to consider when dubbing one codec “best.” Just because a certain codec has a higher bit rate than another, it may still compress audio less efficiently — this is the case with SBC versus AAC, where the latter utilizes a more complex algorithm. Other variables and limitations apply as well, like the fact that SBC can have a bit rate of up to 345 kbps, but manufacturers often limit this to 256kbps to prevent battery drain.
Similarly, LDAC, AptX Adaptive and Lossless, LHDC and LC3 all use variable bit rates, adjusting based on the strength of your connection, so you may not reap the full benefits of the codec. That being said, at a certain point there are diminishing returns, as the human ear can only hear qualitative differences up to a certain point. Some of the higher-quality codecs can also drain battery much quicker, so they aren’t the best choice for all-day listening.
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How to switch Bluetooth codecs
Depending on your device, you may not be able to control which codec your tech is using. Apple devices, for example, only support AAC and SBC. With an Android device, you can toggle your codecs by activating Developer options or third-party apps.
Switching codecs with developer settings
Turn on Bluetooth and connect your accessory
Go to Settings
Select About phone
Select Software information
Press Build numberseven times to activate Developer options
Go back to Settings
Select Developer options, then search for codec
Select Bluetooth Audio Codec in the results, then again once your phone navigates there
Select the codec you want and press OK
Alternatively, you can use an app like the Bluetooth Codec Changer from developer AmrG DEV. This can be less cumbersome than navigating Android menus, and also allows you to do things like set specific audio profiles for different occasions — the kind of codec setup you need for phone calls is likely different than dedicated music listening, for example — though some of these special features require a subscription.
A woman identified as Jane Doe 4 has joined a lawsuit filed by three Tennessee teenagers against Elon Musk’s xAI over the role the company’s chatbot Grok allegedly played in creating child sexual abuse material.
According to a report in The Washington Post, the woman alleged that her stepfather used Grok to manipulate a photo taken when she was 11 years old to create more than 7,000 explicit images of her. The woman also said that her stepfather was found dead of suicide two days after the images were uncovered in a law enforcement raid.
“Limitless access to these tools is spreading so quickly,” said the woman. “It is taking everyday life and turning it into child sexual abuse.”
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