Some are earning their first Michelin stars, beaming in front of the cameras.
Their march up the steps is the summation of years of hard work and dedication.
For one Lancashire restaurant, that walk has become muscle memory.
On a cold Dublin night, Northcote retained its Michelin star for a 30th consecutive year, a Ribble Valley restaurant mixing it with the world’s elite.
![]()
In February, Northcote retained its Michelin star for 30 consecutive years (Image: Northcote)
Yet it was not so long ago that this night had seemed impossible.
Lisa Goodwin-Allen is the embodiment of the modern head chef in gastronomy’s elite.
In hospitality, as in sport, chefs have shifted away from the stereotype of the free-wheeling, hard-drinking bon viveur, an image that is part reality, part misty-eyed nostalgia for “golden days”.
A slight eccentricity in her appearance, white hair tinged with pink, purposefully frayed on one side, has become a calling card for the Lancaster-born chef, who began her remarkable career at Lancaster & Morecambe College, before stints at Holbeck Ghyll in the Lake District and the two-Michelin-starred Le Champignon Sauvage in Cheltenham.
When you work hard and things are not evolving, it kind of suppresses you.
She arrived at Northcote as a wet-behind-the-ears 20-year-old in 2001; her drive and talent saw her named head chef just three years later, in 2004, at the age of 23.
Two decades on, a seismic shock rippled through the Ribble Valley when Goodwin-Allen announced in March 2025 that she was leaving Northcote after 23 years.
The decision was reversed just one month later, when she returned to Northcote as Chef Patron-Director.
Sitting in the conservatory, she is reluctant to dwell on that period.
![Chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen]()
Lisa Goodwin-Allen, Chef Patron-Director at Northcote (Image: Northcote)
“When you work hard and things are not evolving, it kind of suppresses you,” she says, choosing her words carefully.
“You think, maybe I should look elsewhere.”
The answer is brief, but it reveals something fundamental about her character: a restless desire to push boundaries, both her own and those of the kitchen walls around her.
So, what changed her mind?
The new owners, Alf and Clare Ellis, who built one of Britain’s most successful kitchen manufacturing businesses through Ultima Furniture Systems and DIY Kitchens, bought Northcote, and Goodwin-Allen was tempted back into her pursuit of excellence, reassured she would have the support and investment to match her ambition.
It was an acknowledgment that a chef is only as strong as the team and structure around them.
For those who appreciate a sporting analogy, apologies to those who do not, the difference between the most successful clubs and the ones who outspend their rivals yet under-deliver is rarely just the manager.
There is usually a structure in place that allows them to do their best work.
For Pep Guardiola at Manchester City, that meant an ownership group willing to invest, plus key lieutenants like director of football Txiki Begiristain and chief executive Ferran Soriano.
For Goodwin-Allen, that structure is the new ownership and Craig Bancroft, better known as Mr B.
With a nickname reminiscent of the unseen voice in Charlie’s Angels, he sits with a calm authority that belies the scale of his responsibilities.
He is the man who keeps the wheels greased and Northcote’s garden watered, literally and figuratively.
He looks after the wine, oversees training, and makes sure every department runs in sync.
Bancroft’s journey to that role has been anything but smooth.
“I failed everything at school,” he says.
“I started an apprenticeship scheme that was five years long, which you would never get anyone to do today.”
There was a year-long stint as a chef, including six months in Paris and six back in England, working in some of the best hotels in London, not a bad grounding.
More than four decades on, it is no surprise that Mr B is a living encyclopaedia of Northcote.
Before the five years were up, he arrived at Northcote in December 1983, the place he would become synonymous with.
More than four decades on, it is no surprise that Mr B is a living encyclopaedia of Northcote.
In truth, his influence stretches far beyond the Ribble Valley.
Widely regarded as one of the most respected figures in British hospitality, Bancroft is an industry titan, literally, having been named among the Industry Titans in Boutique Hotelier’s Power List 2026.
The accolade merely formalised what many in hospitality already knew.
![A table set for service in Northcote's Michelin-starred restaurant]()
A table set for service in Northcote’s Michelin-starred restaurant (Image: Northcote)
Few individuals have shaped northern fine dining, wine education and talent development quite like Mr B.
Under his watch, countless talents have risen through the ranks and many have gone on to pastures new.
Bancroft has overseen the qualification of two Master Sommeliers, with Magdalena Sleziak, Northcote’s Head Sommelier and Food & Beverage Manager, on her way to becoming the third.
“What excites me,” he says, “is the development of the business, but I love developing the people we have.”
“The Northcote family is worldwide and in 42 years we have also produced marriages,” he smiles.
“Lisa met her husband here and I met my wife here.”
Goodwin-Allen and Mr B’s personalities and ambitions dovetail neatly.
They share a desire to make Northcote bigger and better than ever while keeping its roots firmly grounded in Lancashire.
Part of that is using nearby suppliers and a largely local workforce.
“We are employing 87 people and most of those are locals,” says Mr B.
“Most of Lisa’s suppliers are within a 30-40 mile radius.
“When you look at the little economy that is, it is a really, really important part of where we live.”
Lisa strikes a similar note.
“It is not about going somewhere else and getting it cheaper,” she says.
“It is about giving a good price and good quality whilst stamping the DNA of what Lancashire has to offer.
“As much as we can, whether that is a nostalgic nod, a traditional dish or an ingredient, we will always feature Lancashire in some way.”
More than just a restaurant, as the Catalans might say.
The duo see it as Northcote’s responsibility to tell the stories of their producers, to reveal the unseen work and passion that goes into what appears on the plate.
If that emphasis on local products and charming stories makes this sound like a postcard restaurant, it could not be further from the truth.
Under Lisa’s stewardship, the menu is a case study in constant experimentation, invention and reinvention.
Take the eel dish, which Goodwin-Allen reverse-engineered.
![]()
Guests enjoy the terrace at Northcote, overlooking the Ribble Valley countryside (Image: Northcote)
In the development kitchen, the eel is slow-cooked, long-cooked, fried, left raw.
Flesh, bones and head are used to build a stock.
The fat was stripped out once the team realised it masked the palate, and the percentage of cream was dialled back with it.
Micro and macro changes followed until they reached a dish they were happy with.
“The public do not realise how much effort it takes to create one dish,” she says.
“The work, the effort and the creativity, there are so many layers.”
Is it frustrating?
“Exciting,” she replies.
“You have to really challenge yourself and we are always looking at new techniques and new ingredients.
Customers at high-end establishments not only recognise but expect good service.
“What our idea is when we say, ‘We are going to make this dish,’ might turn out completely different in reality.
“That is the beauty of development.”
If it sounds like hard work, that is because it is.
Goodwin-Allen admits her success has not come without sacrifice.
A head chef at 23, there were inevitably things she missed out on that her peers were enjoying.
“Massively, you miss everything.”
Like the rest of the world, hospitality was upended by Covid.
“Covid was horrific, it devastated people,” says Goodwin-Allen.
![]()
Lisa Goodwin-Allen and the Northcote team during service (Image: Northcote)
“But it also changed people.
“After that, everyone had to think about working hours and their work-life balance.
“Family is everything; we work to provide for them.
“As an establishment this size, we cannot do a four-day week because we would have to nearly triple our workforce.
“But what we can do is watch the hours and make it more workable.”
Hospitality has long been associated with a churn-and-burn staff culture, but Northcote’s approach is based on the belief that if you look after your workforce, they will look after you.
Customers at high-end establishments not only recognise but expect good service.
Familiar faces in the Ribble Valley help deliver that.
Staff are moved around, picking up skills from different departments and finding the role that suits them best.
There is an understanding that their future is not constantly teetering on a knife-edge.
“We are a much better business to work in than people think,” says Mr B.
“If you have a young family with a child, you can be off Monday and Tuesday so you can do the childcare, then your partner is off Wednesday and Thursday.
“We can make things work around families and everybody is bloody well paid.”
For chefs, the balance is more fraught than for most.
For every single person who comes through the door, you will learn something, be it a technique or an ingredient.
Success hinges on the extra hours and there is probably not an hour, let alone a day, when Goodwin-Allen’s mind does not drift back to work.
The word that keeps surfacing when you speak to her is “obsession”.
Look at the world’s leading chefs, athletes and entrepreneurs and you will struggle to find many who do not share that tunnel-vision approach to success.
They are also constantly scanning the horizon, picking up ideas from rivals, magpies for inspiration.
That spirit helped spawn Northcote’s now-famous food festival, Obsession, founded in 2001.
Chefs from across the UK and around the world travel to the Ribble Valley to cook, collaborate and, increasingly, record podcasts and talks.
More than an event, it became a chance for cross-pollination: the world’s best chefs leaving behind the tiniest details and tricks of the trade, as Lancashire quietly soaked up their knowledge.
“A culinary university,” is how Goodwin-Allen describes it.
“When people come to us, they are coming into our home, with our hospitality, with amazing ingredients, and they walk away desperate to come back.
“For every single person who comes through the door, you will learn something, be it a technique or an ingredient.”
Her presence on social media, where you might find her son helping to prep onions or taste new dishes, is another window into that constant evolution beyond the pass.
Appearances on shows such as Great British Menu and MasterChef: The Professionals have stitched Northcote and Goodwin-Allen into Britain’s culinary fabric.
“It is very good for business, but the biggest thing for me is that I am a beast who likes to learn,” she says.
“The TV is also about giving back.”
To stop learning, in her world, is to stop altogether.
If Northcote’s eye is fixed on the future, what does it want to become?
“We want people to stay with us,” says Lisa.
Rather than enjoy a meal and go home happy, she hopes guests will linger and enjoy the serenity Northcote offers.
A gym, swimming pool, stunning hotel rooms and another eating space in the works are all part of that plan.
Crucially, the Ribble Valley offers something London and Paris do not.
“Dining in the countryside is very different to dining in the city,” says Bancroft.
“We have a bar, a lounge, a garden and terrace,” not to mention the rolling hills and sweeping fields behind him.
Lancashire’s industrial and working-class roots run deep.
In parts of England like this, aspiration is not always seen as respectable, and a hotel with plush rooms and tasting menus can feel jarring to those struggling with the weekly shop.
There are some who see Northcote as a symbol of distance from that world.
Goodwin-Allen understands that tension better than most.
Fiercely proud of her background, she spent much of her childhood in her father’s scrapyard, a far cry from the luxury enjoyed by some of her guests.
Far from pulling up the ladder, she continues to work on projects such as the Lisa Goodwin-Allen Academy at Blackburn College, helping young people gain practical hospitality skills and opening doors into careers that might otherwise feel out of reach.
The initiative reflects her belief that hospitality can be a vehicle for social mobility, just as it was for her when she left Lancaster & Morecambe College and entered an industry that would eventually take her to the very top of British gastronomy.
Prices at Northcote are undeniably a luxury for many.
But perhaps a Lancashire institution that hires and looks after its own, buys local and pours money and training back into the county, deserves celebrating.
It might be a rose in Lancashire’s garden, but few institutions can claim to enrich the soil in which it sits as much as Northcote does.
That, as much as any Michelin star, may be its greatest achievement.
You must be logged in to post a comment Login