A stroll along the seafront in Bognor Regis puts you in two very different places depending on which direction you’re looking in.
Face the beach and there’s a vast expanse of clear sea, a pebble shore and an immaculate pathway. In the other direction is a slightly different proposition: the town.
It becomes immediately clear as I stroll along the promenade, that this West Sussex town is full of contrasts.
It’s a seaside resort that basks in around 1,919 hours of sunshine per year, making it one of the sunniest spots in the UK.
It has another, less sunny, title attached to it though: consumer champion Which? named it Britain’s worst coastal spot – twice.
Bognor got the ‘Regis’ part of its name after King George V visited in 1929, in search of fresh air and a place to convalesce. To honour the town that improved his health, he added the royal suffix, which means ‘of the King’ in Latin.
Nearly 100 years on, many no longer see it as fit for a king – with the local council promising to re-invest in this run-down resort and help it find its former glory.
Could Bognor, whisper it, become the South Coast’s answer to Margate? The Kent resort has seen its fortunes transformed in recent decades thanks to investment led by the artist Tracey Emin.
With the regeneration efforts very much in the works, I’m here to find out just how much of a makeover it’s getting.
Ready for a spruce up: Classic English seaside resort is set for regeneration, including on its pier
The Daily Mail’s Erin Waks went to Bognor to find out if plans for redevelopment are working
Local MP Alison Griffiths has launched a new initiative called ’29 for 29′, which asks residents to suggest small, specific changes that would make a visible difference to the town.
July 2029 marks the 100th anniversary of George V granting the town its royal suffix.
Ms Griffiths tells the Daily Mail: ‘The aim is simple: let the people who know Bognor Regis best choose 29 practical improvements ahead of the town’s centenary in 2029.
‘This is about meaningful, achievable changes people can see and feel, not a glossy plan sitting on a shelf.’
And other developments are already underway in Bognor.
A new Premier Inn has sprung up on the seafront, the esplanade has been spruced up and the former Alexandra Theatre, with aimed completion for 2027, is being revamped into a major new cultural hub.
Ms Griffiths explains: ‘What is clear is that businesses have confidence in Bognor Regis and our local economy. What they lack is a Labour Government prepared to match it.
‘I recently brought Tory culture spokesman Nigel Huddleston to meet tourism and hospitality businesses here, because Westminster needs to hear directly what higher staffing costs, business rates, and Labour’s new red tape are doing. Our businesses are doing their bit for Bognor Regis, and we need to make it easier for them to succeed.’
Local MP Alison Griffiths says she’s keen to see on-the-ground improvements
She admits: ‘I won’t pretend everything is fixed. What has changed is that there is now a route from complaint to action, with clearer pressure on the organisations responsible. A cleaner, safer, better-connected town gives families more reason to return, shopkeepers a fairer chance to thrive, and residents a town centre they enjoy using.’
But what does this actually look like on the ground for those pitching up there this weekend?
Central London Road has all the hallmarks of a small town main shopping street, as does the High Street itself (Poundland, Peacocks, New Look and various charity shops) and the chirp of seagulls overhead, but otherwise there’s little of note. Bunting adds colour to the mix, and it’s relatively clean.
It’s not especially good, but it’s not notably bad, either. It is eerily quiet though, especially for a sunny August morning.
The signs of regeneration in the town are clear. Scaffolding, cordoned-off zones and trucks filled with building materials punctuate the town centre, especially around the Alexandra Arts Centre development.
The town centre has all the markers of a typical British town – with the usual chain shops, but it’s certainly not the worst
Scaffolding and building works are, however, everywhere you look
It’s the parts in between the main stretch of beach and the town that need work. Housing estates, crumbling and faded buildings and run-down alleys dominate the back streets of Bognor.
The pier is, perhaps, the worst part. From the outside, the paint work is peeling, the windows are dirty and the scenery is bleak.
The inside is no better. Bleach is the only word that comes to mind when you enter the arcade – the chemical scent of cleaning products is so strong it’s hard to comprehend how the screaming children inside remain focused on their pinball machines.
Fleeing the site, and with my hopes for Bognor drastically on the decline, I set off for the promenade, hoping the locals can tell me what’s really going on.
Some are happy to sing Bognor’s praises.
Ben Handley, 32, immediately suspects why I am here once I strike up a conversation: ‘Oh, of course, Bognor’s the “worst seaside town”,’ he says teasingly.
Ben, who works for the local council, explains: ‘It’s the sunniest place in the UK, it’s very diverse and there’s lots of culture.
Many have noted the opening of the new Premier Inn – MP Alison, pictured at its opening
Rachael Roberts, 33, works at chic Luna Hut Sauna – and absolutely loves Bognor
‘Walking along the seafront in the summer, it’s like being in the Med.’
A stretch, perhaps, but he says it with confidence. I guess the pebble beach could somewhat resemble Nice in the south of France. If you squint hard.
As for the redevelopments, Ben says: ‘We could do with some more money. But there’s a lot of people who love Bognor.’
Another resident who adores the town is Rachael Roberts, 33, who works at a surprisingly chi-chi Scandi-style sauna on the beach – surely not, I think when I first see it.
Rachael, who originally hails from Wales, tells me: ‘There’s stuff in the works, for sure. Bognor’s really fun and beautiful. I’ve been here for three years and it has really improved in that time. I think that when you give a town opportunities to thrive, you’ll get a more thriving community – and definitely this summer, we’ve seen a lot more tourists. It’s not Brighton-level busy, though!’
In response to the ‘worst seaside town’ claims, Rachael says: ‘It’s just awful, decided by people who have clearly never been here. We have a gorgeous ocean, steady tides. A positive vibe.’
As for why she thinks the negative reputation has spread, she says: ‘If you expect bad, you’ll see the bad. But Bognor has a small-town vibe, there’s a real sense of community.’
Rachael’s not the only Briton to make the move from elsewhere in the UK to Bognor. I’m not sure what more evidence for its growing appeal there could be.
Rob Chamberlain, 53, grew up in Cornwall and then moved to London – but work opportunities brought him to Bognor.
‘The “worst” title, I believe that’s nonsense. It’s better than London!’ says Rob, who relocated to the town in 2020 to run a local pub.
Local pub owner Rob Chamberlain sings the town’s praises
The establishment, now rebranded as The Waverley and under his ownership, might not look like much from the outside – but inside, it’s all polished wood, spacious seating and original fireplaces. There’s no denying the buzzing atmosphere – it’s the busiest part of Bognor I see.
‘When I first got the offer to move to Bognor, I thought, it’s not really where I wanted to end up. I panicked. But when I actually moved here, it was something else. I love it.
‘People leave their keys and wallets on the table – no one’s worried about theft. The summer’s phenomenal. Now I’ve got friends who have moved here too and said it’s the best thing they’ve ever done. That’s because of the community.
‘I’ve certainly noticed the redevelopment. The theatre, and there’s a new Premier Inn that’s sprung up. It’s like somebody’s got a crystal ball and knows there’s something going on in Bognor.’
Another local, who preferred to remain anonymous, adds: ‘I love Bognor, I’m a fan. I lived in Chichester before, but Bognor is better, and I’ve been here for 18 years. I love being by the sea.
‘The people are friendly and always say good morning. Since 2005, there have been lots of improvements. I hate it when people say bad things – I don’t know where the “worst” label came from.
‘I will say, though, that people don’t like that there’s not much to do as a seaside resort. I guess it depends what you come for – it’s great if you come without children.’
Parts of Bognor are genuinely lovely. A short stroll around Hotham Park is like visiting a smaller version of my own local Hampstead Heath, and the seafront is, despite the wind and (naturally) a spot of rain, very pleasant.
A slice of vanilla and peach cheesecake at Sunday’s Bread bakery is superb, and restaurant Chez Moi – although closed for some of the summer – has received standout reviews, raved about by Giles Coren at The Times.
A retro sweet shop is on any Bognor bucket list, and I quickly spy Olde Bognor Rock Shop – all nostalgia and brightly coloured sticks of rock candy.
Stacey Kelly, 42, who works in the shop, tells me however that she doesn’t think the regeneration has made much difference.
She says it remains Butlin’s that is the town’s main draw – and the work outside of the resort has made little difference: ‘People still come here mainly for Butlin’s, that’s our sweet shop clientele.’
Another teenage local, who has grown up in the town, agrees. She says: ‘It’s so rough, it’s gone so downhill. I will not come back to Bognor after I leave.’
Regarding the ‘worst’ claims, MP Ms Griffiths says: ‘It’s a tired label. Which? itself says its final data was unweighted and may not represent everyone who visited. That matters when such a sweeping verdict is being attached to an entire town.
‘I’m not going to pretend every criticism is wrong. Some parts of Bognor Regis need more care. Some buildings have been neglected for too long. Residents knew that before a league table arrived, and they are right to expect action.
‘A ranking can be useful if it makes the organisations responsible sit up and pay attention. What I will not accept is allowing it to define Bognor Regis.’
Other than the local MP, authorities in Bognor are keen to bolster the town’s credentials.
Olde Bognor Rock Shop bears all the hallmarks of a genuinely retro sweetshop
Hotham Park is gorgeous, quiet and with a boating lake and miniature train
Parts of the town are, however, rundown, crumbling and peeling
Mayor of Bognor Regis Paul Ralph, says: ‘Whilst we of course acknowledge there are always things to improve on, as is the case in nearly every seaside town, Bognor Regis is a place full of community spirit; volunteers and organisations around every corner working tirelessly to improve the services and offerings for the town and its residents and visitors. A town where, millions of pounds’ worth of investment has been, and continues to be made.’
A Butlin’s spokesman added: ‘We welcome more than 400,000 guests to our Bognor Regis resort each year across our family breaks and adult only Big Weekenders, and we’re proud to play a significant role in the local visitor economy.
Butlin’s remains a huge draw for tourists but many of those who stay don’t explore the actual town
‘This summer alone, around 70,000 guests have stayed with us, with many also heading into Bognor Regis during their break.’
With all that said, what’s the future on Bognor’s horizon?
It’s hard to say, for sure. The potential is evident – the undisturbed coastline and advantageous sunshine mean the spot is primed for seaside success.
But it’s a long way off from perfect – more than just a lick of paint is required to turn the town into the likes of Margate or Rye.
So, is Bognor getting a makeover? Yes, it is – but whether it succeeds, well, that remains to be seen.
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