» Discover Jasper for all its beauty and hospitality

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I rarely return from a ski trip with deep emotion for a town, its people, or a ski resort, but Jasper, which is all about community, the great outdoors and family is an exception.

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Last year’s devastating fires that swept across Jasper National Park and into parts of Jasper left many wondering about the future of the town as it prepared for another busy tourist and ski season. I didn’t know what to expect as we made the scenic three-and-a-half-hour drive from Edmonton to Jasper, but when we arrived, I was completely surprised.

Despite exaggerated reports and rumours that the town was gone, the majority of main street remains untouched by flames. Famous heritage landmarks such as the quaint Astoria Hotel, celebrating its 100th year, the CN rail yard train station, the Rocky Mountaineer stop, the 50-foot totem pole, the heritage post office, and the firehall are still standing.

While some homes and hotels on the outskirts of town were lost, all your favourite cozy restaurants, lodges, and shops are thriving and open for business. This includes beloved local spots like the De’d Dog Bar and Grill, known for its amazing wings and burgers, Jasper Pizza Place, the Maligne Range for spaghetti Bolognese, and Evil Dave’s, where you can enjoy creative starters like Hot Mess, Vicious Hippies, Holy Cow, and my personal favourites—Cowboy Sushi and Gyoza dumplings.

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I visited Jasper last year, but I wanted to return to see firsthand how the town was doing. I can confidently say that Jasper is open and ready for business, along with Marmot Basin, one of the most beautiful ski mountains in the world.

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On the 20-minute drive from town to Marmot Basin, you will witness heartbreaking fire devastation — once-towering trees now reduced to charred sticks along the mountainsides. But as soon as you arrive at Marmot Basin, the focus shifts to skiing.

The flames came close but never reached Caribou Lodge, which boasts Canada’s highest base elevation at 1,698 meter with 914 vertical drop. The resort’s 91 marked trails, spanning a vast 1,720 acres with five mountain faces, remain untouched. What I love most about Marmot Basin is how it reminds me of European skiing, with snow-filled bowls and wide open trails surrounded by stunning jagged peaks. You ski above the tree line with the longest run at 5.6km.

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You can see all this expansive beauty of the Canadian Rockies overlooking the famous Jasper National Park from the top of Knob Chair on Marmot Peak at an elevation of 2,612 meters. We enjoyed the winding blue Knob Traverse on a glorious sunny day then into the towering pines on Basin Run to mid station for a cold local craft beer. Tranquilizer is a great way to wind up your day at the Caribou Lodge. This is the perfect resort for any weather conditions. On sunny days, head to the open bowls for powder magic above the tree line on Knob Traverse, and on cloudy days, explore the bottom glades on Tranquilizer where towering evergreens shelter gently rolling blue and green groomers. Visibility is much better through the trees on flat light days. For the more adventurous, Eagle East offers challenging blacks and double blacks off the Eagle Ridge Quad Chair, while Tres Hombres off the Paradise Quad Chair provides even more thrills. For rails there’s a terrain park and mini rail area. Beginners can enjoy the Marmot Learning Centre, along with a magic carpet beside the lodge.

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One of my favourite aspects of Marmot Basin is the mid-mountain dining experience. The Eagle and Paradise Chalets, connected by an outdoor patio, offer fire pits, picnic tables, and Muskoka chairs — perfect for enjoying a cold drink while soaking up the glorious Alberta sunshine. What makes this resort truly ideal for families is its layout: All trails lead down to the main Caribou Chalet, ensuring that everyone can easily reconnect at the base. There are also three upper parking lots that allow for unique ski-in, ski-out opportunities.

A nice bonus about skiing in Jasper is that the wait lines are very minimal, given how far away it is from Edmonton and Calgary.

We were lucky to experience spectacular bluebird days and to reconnect with the man that makes Marmot Basin happen. The really cool Marmot Basin Vice President Brian Rode has been leading his team for 47 years and commented about mountain weather. He said, it’s unpredictable — wait an hour, and the sun could be shining again. Thanks to Jasper’s dry, cooler climate, you won’t find the heavy cloud cover or fog that can linger at some interior resorts. The rental shop in the basement is well-stocked with high-quality Head skis, and upstairs, you can grab a bite at the Caribou Grill, area featuring finely sliced Alberta beef dip, topped off with a local craft beer — does it get any better than this?

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Accommodations in Jasper remain plentiful, with many lodges and hotels untouched by the fires. We stayed at the iconic Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, a luxurious retreat surrounded by nature and abundant wildlife. Spanning 700 magnificent acres within Jasper National Park, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is something special. As we approached the gates, we were greeted by grazing elk and bighorn sheep, a sight that never gets old. Herds of these animals are everywhere, and you might even wake up to a couple wandering outside your cabin.

Inside the main lodge, an enormous floor-to-ceiling fireplace welcomes guests who can admire the stunning views of the mountains and pristine Lac Beauvert through floor to ceiling windows. Instead of traditional hotel rooms, guests stay in cozy log cabins along the lake, with options ranging from two to six bedrooms. After a long day of skiing or hiking, the Fairmont Spa is the perfect place to relax, featuring a gigantic outdoor heated pool and a unique eucalyptus sauna. There’s also a large work out room and of course world famous massages.

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Dining at Jasper Park Lodge is an experience in itself. Start your day with an endless breakfast buffet or an à la carte meal at Orso Trattoria. For something quick, Fitzhugh’s Fine Foods offers delicious wraps, grab-and-go snacks, decadent baked goods, and a selection of wine and beer. You can also enjoy in-room dining from the comfort of your cabin. The lodge boasts a variety dining rooms: Orso Trattoria for Italian cuisine, the Great Hall upstairs, offering a creative twist on classic western dishes plus The Nook and Emerald Lounge.

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Beyond skiing, there’s no shortage of activities at Jasper Park Lodge. As (PR Manager) Daniel Ross explained, guests can test their limits with a supervised Glacier Plunge, where they cut a hole in the ice and jump in. Other options include snowshoeing, a lakeside sauna, fat biking, and miles of hiking trails. For golfers, there’s even an indoor golf simulator, and in the summer, the Jasper Park course is ranked No. 1 in Canada. No matter the season — winter, spring, summer, or fall — the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge is a luxury escape in the heart of one of the world’s most breathtaking national parks.

Once again, Jasper and Marmot Basin are wide open and ready for visitors year-round. I’ll be back soon to one of the most beautiful and friendliest places in the world.

Glenn Crouter is an Ambassador for the Canadian Ski Council and ski reporter for 640 Toronto. For Instagram suggestions or comments, follow @glennskigolf. Up next: Whistler-Blackcomb.

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