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I went to the best bar in the world and I was not impressed
Hong Kong is home to a special kind of star: the bar that holds the number one spot on the prestigious list of the World’s 50 Best Bars.
While I was there in October, I took the opportunity to experience it for myself. But despite the buzz and international acclaim, I left feeling… underwhelmed.
Opened in June 2023, Bar Leone is the brainchild of multi-award-winning Italian bartender Lorenzo Antinori.
The concept leans heavy on nostalgia, early ’90s cinema and sports culture, all wrapped in a colonial-style interior designed to evoke the casual charm of a Roman street bar. In theory, it sounds warm and transportive. In reality, it felt restrained to the point of bland.
I can’t help but think this place has been a victim of its own success; that being seen as ‘the best’ has actually, sort of, ruined it.
Like many Hong Kong establishments, Bar Leone is unassuming.
Street-level, dimly lit, and sparsely decorated, the space lacks the kind of visual drama or personality you might expect from a venue crowned ‘best in the world’.
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Inside, the room feels tight and crowded, with small tables that wobble when leaned on and little separation between guests. Rather than buzzing, it felt cramped, more functional than atmospheric.
And before we get to the drinks, there’s the wait.
Getting through the door of Bar Leone requires patience and a willingness to check WhatsApp obsessively. On arrival, a hostess takes your number and places you on a digital waitlist that updates sporadically.
I am told that five-hour waits are not uncommon. I started at number 57 and waited two and a half hours to reach the top three.
At one point, a drunk man in a dishevelled suit wielding a bamboo stick charged the entrance, only to be politely informed that he’d need to rejoin the digital queue.
‘Can we stay here, do you have a tent?’ he shouted. Welcome to the hunger games.
Moments like this underline just how subjective lists like the World’s 50 Best Bars can be. Watching people endure hours-long waits made me wonder: was this about genuine love for the bar, or a desire to be part of the prestige attached to it?
For me, exclusivity does not mean quality. And waiting hours for what ultimately felt like a straightforward bar experience isn’t my idea of best in show. The interior, while tasteful, lacked imagination.
The vibe skewed more chaotic than convivial. Service, though polite, felt stretched, with water glasses going unrefilled, and once seated, attention was minimal.
Even the basics faltered. Last orders were called at 11:30pm, which is unusually early for Hong Kong’s buzzing nightlife scene, where bars commonly stay open until around 2am, and clubs run even later.
That’s the norm in nightlife districts such as Lan Kwai Fong and Soho, where late-night crowds never peak until after midnight.
So, when a bar with global plaudits cuts service so early, it feels like a missed opportunity, especially in a city built for late-night drinking.
These may sound like small details, but at this level, they matter. Isn’t this the bare minimum of bar etiquette?
To be fair, and this matters, the cocktails were genuinely excellent.
My olive oil sour was rich, balanced, and memorable. It was the kind of drink you stop talking mid-sentence to appreciate.
I didn’t get to try the food (by the time I was seated, I had just 45 minutes before closing), but TikTok has been relentless in flaunting a viral mortadella sandwich, which looks decadent and tempting.
For the uninitiated, the World’s 50 Best Bars list is often described as the Oscars of cocktail culture. Judged by hundreds of industry professionals worldwide, venues are assessed on creativity, technical skill, design, and overall experience.
While undeniably prestigious, the process is famously opaque. Voters are anonymous, criteria are broad, and results inevitably reflect prevailing tastes and trends, which can amplify hype just as much as quality.
Standing in the crowded entryway during my short stay, I couldn’t help but question Leone’s title.
While the drinks were outstanding, the overall experience didn’t live up to the promise. A number one bar, to me, should deliver consistency, comfort, and hospitality alongside innovation, not just one exceptional cocktail before ushering guests out the door.
So, is it worth the visit? In my opinion, no.
I understand why both judges and the public are drawn to Bar Leone: the pedigree, the drinks, the exclusivity. But the waitlist alone is enough to deter me from returning, especially when Hong Kong is packed with bars that offer equally strong cocktails and a more generous, enjoyable experience.
Places like Muis or Peridot, for example, impressed me far more. Both deliver inventive drinks without the chaos, offer warmer service, and create impressive, aesthetic and stimulating spaces where you want to linger.
But hey, maybe I was just cranky from the wait.
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