There was a car created by Carroll Shelby that didn’t have a Ford engine under its hood. In fact, it wasn’t even based on a Ford. We are talking about the Shelby Series 1 Roadster, the only car ever built by Shelby from a clean-sheet design. Instead of a big engine from the Blue Oval providing the motive power for this Shelby, there was an Oldsmobile V8 under the hood generating the necessary horsepower. Overall, it was an underappreciated Shelby car.

The Shelby Series 1 Roadster was Carroll Shelby’s final attempt to create a modern version of the automotive icon that was the Shelby Cobra. Just 249 examples of the Series 1 were produced, all 1999 models, conforming to that year’s Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. The Shelby’s chassis was state-of-the-art, featuring 6061 T4 aluminum elements that were formed and extruded before being welded together and heat treated. Honeycomb aluminum panels formed the floor and rocker panels for extra rigidity, producing a chassis that weighed only 265 pounds. The body that was draped over this chassis was made of fiberglass composite and carbon fiber, keeping the curb weight down to just 2,650 pounds. This was much less than that of the car seen as the Shelby’s main competitor at the time, the Chevrolet Corvette C5.

The Shelby Series 1 Roadster’s suspension used a double wishbone setup connected to cantilevered coil-overs in the center of the vehicle. The brakes were discs all around, with forged aluminum 18-inch Speedline wheels measuring 10 inches wide in the front and 12 inches wide in the rear, mounted with Goodyear Eagle F1 tires.

The Shelby Series 1 Roadster experienced a large number of problems during its gestation, primarily due to both production-related issues and roadblocks stemming from corporate politics. Production problems included chassis jigs that permitted warping during cooling, plus delays due to an overworked team at Shelby that pushed production out to 1999. This further led to cost overruns when a new set of safety standards had to then be met. Then there were handling issues, the lack of ABS (which led to braking problems), whining gears from the ZF manual transmission, and repeatedly cracking aluminum castings in the rear suspension. Moreover, the side windows and convertible tops did not fit correctly and some of the transaxles needed replacement, all issues that increased costs further. Also, the car’s carbon fiber body panels turned out to be not properly sealed, requiring body filler that added hundreds of pounds of weight to the Series 1 Roadster.

Political problems were largely the result of the forced 1996 departure of John Rock, the Oldsmobile general manager who had championed GM’s hookup with Shelby to produce the Series 1 Roadster. Once Rock was gone, Oldsmobile would not supply the computer tuning codes for the L47 engine Shelby was using, ultimately reducing the stock engine’s output from 350 horses to 320. Making things worse, GM refused to share any current Corvette parts with the Shelby Series 1 Roadster, so Shelby was unable to use the ‘Vette’s transaxle or any C5 suspension pieces. The price also increased, starting at a sub-$100k target when it was first announced up to $181,824 in 2000.

For motive power, the Shelby Series 1 Roadster was supposed to use an Oldsmobile racing engine, but emissions-compliance issues resulted in the car using the civilian version, the 4.0-liter DOHC V8 from the Oldsmobile Aurora, mounted behind the front axle in a front mid-engine position. The engine was mated to a six-speed manual ZF transmission driving the rear wheels. Weight distribution was an ideal 51:49. The engine made 250 horsepower in the Aurora, but the Shelby ended up with 320, while an optional supercharger, which works differently than a turbocharger, would literally boost that to 450 horsepower. 

According to the Museum of American Speed, the stock Shelby Series 1 Roadster can do 0-60 mph in 4.4 seconds, with a quarter-mile time of 12.8 seconds at 112 mph and a top speed of 170 mph. Car and Driver managed, after many difficulties related to the car’s reliability, to get a 0-60 mph time of 4.1 seconds and a quarter-mile time of 13.0 seconds at 112 mph. The publication famously called the Series 1 “a work in progress.”

The Shelby Series 1 Roadster should have been a modern reincarnation of the Shelby Cobra, with all the performance and charisma of the original version. Instead, it is seen as a project that came up against all of the typical obstacles that befall low-volume vehicle producers. From the eternal struggle to make money on a few hundred cars and corporate infighting with formerly helpful partners to the realities of making a vehicle that conforms to the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards, the Series 1  had the deck stacked against it; regardless, it remains Carrol Shelby’s flawed but striking swansong.

In the power tool game, having your branding down is everything, and DeWalt has remained pretty consistent with its products over the past few decades — when customers see black and yellow in a tool context, their mind automatically goes to DeWalt. With that said, the company isn’t afraid to make minor, yet noticeable tweaks here in there. One of the most recent is a change to one of DeWalt’s many battery types, specifically the 20V XR battery offerings. Looking closely at the labels on the sides of these batteries and at their online descriptions, there is a noticeable change to how these batteries are categorized and advertised.

For example, the 20V Max XR compact battery has only recently taken on this naming. Not long ago, it was known as the 20V Max XR PowerStack compact battery, with the PowerStack branding removed from the online DeWalt listing, and this change is reflected on the battery itself. This change is observed through the 20V Max XR compact battery kit listing on the DeWalt website, which features images of previous designs with the large and small PowerStack logos. On top of this, PowerStack and PowerPack logos have been removed from many other 20V DeWalt batteries.

All in all, this isn’t too massive of a change, especially for those who aren’t all that picky about their DeWalt batteries so long as they get the job done. The question is, though, does this slight rebrand mean anything for the batteries’ performance level? Thankfully, based on the image changes, DeWalt’s battery system hasn’t changed outside of these missing PowerStack and PowerPack logos.

At the end of the day, a missing logo and some description changes doesn’t make too much of a difference. However, if DeWalt altered how its batteries work, that would be cause for customers to be disgruntled. As mentioned before, they’re still the same shape and size across the board, and for those worried they’ll have to delve into the pros and cons of power tool battery adapters, the manner in which they connect to DeWalt power tools hasn’t changed.

With that said, there is the question of the fate of the PowerStack and PowerPack lines. PowerStack batteries were introduced as a more powerful and efficient series of batteries, notable for their flat pouch cells over standard cylindrical ones. PowerPack batteries offer similar benefits utilizing multi-tab battery cells as opposed to traditional single-tab cells. Nothing has come to light that confirms the demise of these sublines or the technology behind them, so we’ll just have to wait and see if DeWalt sheds any light on the disappearance of these labels down the line.

While the fate of the PowerPack and PowerStack labels remains something of a mystery for the time being, there don’t seem to be many significant battery changes in DeWalt’s lineup. Based on the revised images, the impacted battery models are likely to connect and get the job done as they always have, just with a little less paint and branding on their sides.

Fully electric vehicles are becoming more and more prevalent, but some people still prefer hybrids over EVs. Hybrids combine the best aspects of both full-electric motors and gasoline-fueled engines, and as such, they offer decent power output, reduced emissions, and impressive fuel efficiency. They’re also generally quieter, and they remove the charging hassle and fear of running out of power that comes with a full EV.

Hybrids depend on a battery pack to power the electric motor. These batteries often come with generous warranties, with major automotive brands like Ford and BMW offering eight-year warranties. However, even though there are measures you can take to ensure your hybrid’s battery lasts as long as it’s supposed to, it will still degrade and fail over time. When this happens, you’ll probably experience some of the most common problems that affect lithium-ion or nickel-metal hydride batteries, like overheating and reduced battery capacity.

Given that most hybrid battery repairs or replacements can cost thousands of dollars, understanding these problems is vital for current owners and potential buyers alike. As an owner, it can help you detect and troubleshoot small issues that might worsen into something serious, and if you’re a buyer, you’ll be able to decide if the hybrid car is worth investing in. With that said, here’s a look at common problems you’ll find with hybrid batteries and how you can avoid them.

One thing to keep in mind about all types of batteries is that they are susceptible to battery drain, especially as they age. Your high-voltage hybrid battery pack is no different. In an ideal scenario, a hybrid battery should last about eight to ten years, and you should not experience persistent battery drain during this period. However, if your pack is relatively new, and you notice telltale signs of a dying battery, such as a noticeable drop in your average MPG or reduced performance, that’s cause for concern. Your aging battery cells are probably losing efficiency, and it’s best that you visit a pro for inspection and repair.

Apart from age, there are many reasons why your car’s battery is draining so fast. Factors such as exposure to extreme temperatures and frequent deep discharges can all lead to premature battery drain. The battery will also start to lose capacity if you leave your vehicle untouched for months or engage in bad driving habits, say, pushing the engine too hard for too long. To avoid putting your hybrid battery at risk of premature draining, experts recommend parking your car in a shaded area. You’ll also want to drive your car regularly — not short drives, as they can also shorten the lifespan of both the 12-volt and high-voltage batteries. Don’t forget to commit to proactive maintenance as it’s key to a long hybrid life.

Another common and dangerous problem you may encounter with hybrid batteries is overheating. It’s quite normal for batteries to generate a little heat when in use due to chemical reactions. When it starts to heat up excessively, however, you’ll want to take caution; an overheating hybrid battery can present some serious issues. It can reduce your battery’s lifespan by increasing wear and damaging battery cells and also impact your car’s performance and fuel efficiency.

Overheating is one of the warning signs that your hybrid battery needs to be replaced. You can always tell your battery is dangerously overheated if it’s hot to the touch or if a battery warning light pops up on the dashboard. There are several reasons why your hybrid battery will overheat. Think of being exposed to direct sunlight for extended periods, pushing your car too hard to gain speed instantaneously, and faulty electronic connections.

You can keep all these from happening by avoiding common mistakes that ruin car batteries. Mechanics also warn against depleting or deep-discharging your high-voltage battery pack. It’s also wise that you practice proper maintenance. Blocked air intakes, dirty filters, and faulty fans are known culprits for overheating hybrid batteries. Aside from this, be on the lookout for software updates that could entail battery management improvements.

A hybrid battery is not just one big battery. It’s a pack composed of multiple individual modules with low-voltage battery cells, organized to deliver a given voltage level required for efficient operation. Considering that they’re connected to work together, if one module fails, either due to manufacturing defects or physical damage, the whole system will be affected, too.

When this happens, you’ll probably miss everything that makes your hybrid SUV or truck worth driving — think of tremendous fuel savings and impressive driving range. In addition to a decline in fuel efficiency and performance, error codes may appear on your dashboard, your car may feel sluggish during acceleration, and strange noises may appear. To avoid this, keep up with routine battery checks, avoid deep discharges, and minimize how you use your hybrid battery.

If you notice any of these signs, experts recommend you visit your garage for diagnostic scans immediately. Left unchecked, the issue can spread to other cells, leading to total battery failure, which, as we mentioned, is quite expensive to replace. Also, if you’re a DIY enthusiast, you might be tempted to swap faulty modules with new ones. Before you go ahead with your plan, you’ll want to think twice. If done incorrectly, it may result in repeated battery failures and, worse still, a short circuit that could lead to a “thermal event.”