The people of this coastal town are proud of their history, community and vibrant painted streets
When you picture charming painted houses beside the sea in a beautiful Welsh setting, perhaps your thoughts immediately transport you to Tenby, but they probably shouldn’t because there’s a delightful little town considerably further along the coast that has been greeting visitors with spectacular views of colourful homes for generations.
Aberaeron is a town in Ceredigion that sits snugly into the dramatic coastline between New Quay and Aberystwyth at the estuary of the river Aeron, and it has just beaten all the other pretty coastal towns and villages, including Tenby, to be crowned Wales’ best place to live by the sea.
As you descend into it, or pop round the bend while walking along the renowned coastal path, an explosion of pastel hues and darker shades welcomes you — virtually every Georgian and Victorian era property can claim a lovely colour to make their frontage stand out and, when gathered together, the chorus of colour is captivating. For more home, renovation and interiors stories sent to your inbox twice a week sign up to the property newsletter here.
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The town may not be unique in providing houses that lift even the greyest of days but perhaps what enhances the delightful visual spectacle is that so many of the houses appear identical in design and scale and that is largely due to the area’s distinctive history. According to website Coflein the town was conceived and construction commenced in 1805 by the Reverend Alban Thomas Jones as he started upgrading the harbour to establish a more functional port.
The charming central square bears Alban’s name, though architect Edward Haycock was equally instrumental in shaping the town, and together their endeavours earned considerable acclaim, with Aberaeron being described as ‘one of the best examples of a planned township of small scale in Wales’.
According to the website aberaeron.info, a significant number of the houses surrounding the harbour were owned by local sea captains, with many named after distant destinations such as Gambia and Melbourne.
This single phase of construction accounts for the striking consistency found along many of the predominantly Georgian townhouse and Victorian cottage-lined streets, though more recent periods of development are also evident as you venture further from the town centre.
The town flourished as the port expanded, at one point boasting as many as 35 pubs, yet with the arrival of the railways from around 1911, its seafaring heritage gradually faded.
Today, Aberaeron is a thriving tourist destination that swells its resident population of 1,274 by hundreds of visitors, yet even on a cold, wet Tuesday in November, it retains a bustling atmosphere with a warm, community spirit.
The area is also fast establishing itself as a culinary destination, boasting an impressive selection of notable dining spots to suit all tastes, including the renowned Harbourmaster, The Hive, McCowans, The Stubborn Duckling, Y Seler, New Celtic Restaurant, Osteria 1815, and Naturally Scrumptious, alongside a number of pubs serving food such as The Black Lion.
Just two miles outside the town, The Moody Cow is truly special place to unwind and take in sweeping views of the lake and surrounding countryside.
Back in the town centre, the area is equally celebrated for its artisan bakeries, fish and chip shops and Chinese cuisine, alongside charming independent retailers stocking beautiful Welsh homeware, gifts, clothing and accessories, including Seld and Glanmor. The town has also earned a notable reputation for honey production.
Yet it is the town’s picturesque streets, adorned with a wonderful array of heritage colours along most roads, that truly captivate every visitor. Living in one of these iconic painted houses — endlessly photographed and featured across websites and magazines — must be both a privilege and something to grow accustomed to, particularly for those residing on the roads that line the harbour, where visitors flock throughout the year to stroll and snap photographs.
Chris and Jen have resided in their terraced townhouse on one of the more prominent painted streets since 2019, having relocated to the area to support elderly parents. Chris explains: “We fell in love with Aberaeron when we came to visit and looked at a variety of properties because we love the sea, it’s an ideal place and it was a beautiful house as well so we were very lucky to find this.”
The property was perfectly suited to their requirements as, beyond its warm and inviting atmosphere, it required no renovation work and served as an ideal base for Jen’s wellbeing venture, Seedling Retreats and Holidays, which provides sessions and courses across a range of disciplines — from mindfulness and yoga to breathwork — both locally in Aberaeron and on retreats overseas.
Passers-by have occasionally stopped to photograph the property and even peered through the windows, yet Chris remains entirely unfazed by the additional attention their home attracts. He says: “I don’t see it as an intrusion, of course it gets busy during the summer season and the holiday season but that’s part of the nature of a town like this.
“We have some wonderful businesses and restaurants around here and without the tourism we wouldn’t be able to invest as a town into those facilities, and enjoy them for ourselves.
“Throughout the year the town has got carnivals, festivals and there’s a real community here, it’s a lovely place to live. We were living in a more rural location so living in a townhouse on the harbour is a bit different but it’s a wonderful location; waking up in the morning and looking out of the window to the beautiful scenery and the houses, it’s really lovely. We’re by the sea, there’s New Quay nearby, dolphins visiting – the list goes on.”
The pair have maintained the same exterior colour on their house’s façade, believing it was a fundamental part of the property’s character, and integral to the overall street scene and the town’s identity.
Chris says: “It’s a real feature, Aberaeron is well photographed, it’s so picturesque , every angle seems to have a lovely view, we’re really proud of how the town is kept and you can see it all around, it’s echoed in the way the people keep their houses looking so good.”
Local resident Sian grew up in the area and attended secondary school in the town, giving her a deep connection not only to her hometown but also to the house she now lives in — the very property where the trend for painting houses in the town first began.
Sian and her partner Billy purchased Portland House four years ago, though they didn’t move in until June 2023, as the four-storey property was virtually derelict and full of unpleasant surprises, including dead birds. Despite this, Sian was determined to rescue it, having always had a deep admiration for the building.
Sian says: “I used to walk down the back road behind the house into town from our old house and would think ‘who on Earth would buy this house?’ Then it came on the market and I had my moment of madness and decided it would be me.
“I’ve always had a particular connection to this house because when I was in secondary school the pupil ‘houses’ were named after the first three chairs of the governors and one of them was Portland House, and I was captain of Portland House, so it’s always been a house that’s had a connection for me, an emotional link, and I used to hate to see the state it was in.”
Yet Portland House holds a distinction that surpasses all its vibrant neighbours — a former owner was the very first person to introduce colour to Aberaeron, having encountered and fallen in love with brightly painted properties in harbour villages during a visit to Ireland. Sian says: “When my mother used to come to town she used to say that it was all grey, a dull town, and every house was just stone.”
During the 1950s, Phyllis Sewell owned three houses in Aberaeron as houses of multiple occupation and, inspired by her Irish travels, painted them all bright pink.
“There was an absolute uproar, everyone thought it was terrible, what was she doing to Aberaeron? The council even got involved,” says Sian, “but gradually people started coming round to the thought that it was a lovely idea and everybody started painting their houses and now there’s probably less than half a dozen houses that aren’t painted, but I actually think that’s quite nice, to see the original houses as they were and then the contrast.”
Portland House now looks stunning, both inside and out, with the faded yellow façade that had replaced Phyllis’ controversial pink now giving way to a serene, deep green — Sian’s preferred colour — offering three floors of living space for the couple, alongside a two-bedroom basement flat that currently operates as a holiday let.
Lucy, 36, lives on one of the quieter side streets off the main road that winds through the town, where the atmosphere is far more relaxed and the likelihood of being disturbed is considerably lower.
She has called Aberaeron home for 15 years and adores living there. She says: “It’s quite busy in the summer but it’s very friendly, everybody knows everybody and they’ll help you if you need help, it’s just a nice place to live.”
A terraced house has been her home for roughly the past five years, and it has recently been transformed from light green to a shade of pink.
Lucy says: “It was recently painted last year, I just wanted something different to stand out really, the painter gave us a chart and we just chose it from there, it’s in a conservation area so there are only certain colours that you’re allowed.
“I’m not changing it any time soon, I’m so indecisive, it took me ages to choose this colour. It is easier to paint your house in Aberaeron because you look down the street and everyone has got different colours, so I think it makes it a bit easier to choose something a bit brighter, but I say if you’re thinking about it just go for it, it just looks so much better.”
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