It’s been voted one of the most romantic ruins in the country
We’ve got a lot of castles in Wales, 427 of them to be exact. All have unique settings, histories and unique appearances, so it’s hard to have a one-off preference, an immovable favourite.
In city and town centres you have the Caerphilly, Caernarfon, or Cardiff, all with their own stories and places in the history of our nation. Conwy’s ancient castle is ancient fortress with the town within and part of one of Wales’ UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
But there’s one castle that really takes my breath away each time I see it. I’ve never been more awestruck by a castle vista from the car window as with Carmarthenshire’s Castell Carreg Cennen. Bumbling round the country lanes, usually en route to or from Wright’s for my twice (or thrice) yearly Cubano – read more on that here – the view of Carreg Cennen takes my breath away each time.
I’m not over-egging it I promise. Set up on the craggiest limestone Welsh hilltop this fortress from Middle Ages has been named the ‘most romantic’ ruin by Countryfile mag readers, and The Telegraph also listed it as one of the best 10 castles in Wales to take your children. The super rural ruin is great to look at from afar and this scene is only equalled by the 360degree views from the castle itself.
Set almost 300ft above the river form which is takes its name, Carreg Cennen is a 13th century castle where you can explore the gatehouse, big towers and ruined fortifications. One of the attractions of the castle is its natural cave at the end of an atmospheric tunnel. I say ‘attraction’, I’m a wimp so I’ve never dared venture down – but it’s definitely one for spooky explorers!
In a corner of the castle’s inner ward you’ll find a set of steps leading down into the bowels of the castle. Walk down the steps, descend through a cliff-edge tunnel and keep walking through a precarious and pitch black tunnel carved into the rock for as long as you dare. According to Coflein, the online catalogue of archaeology, buildings, industrial and maritime heritage in Wales, human bones were discovered here in the early 20th century, while teeth were found as recently as 1980.
Outside of the castle grounds there are two circular walks which will sate those hiking pangs – both are signposted and the short walk is 2.7k long (1.6m) end the long route is 6km long (3.7m). Both start at the castle’s cafe. Find the route map at Discover Carmarthshire.
En route around the walk you”ll find some interesting wildlife and and rich, diverse flowers and plants. The woodland you’ll pass through is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and is a good place to look for woodland birds like Wood Pigeon, Nuthatch, Blue Tit and Wren.
The castle dates back to at least the 13th century, but Roman coins discovered at the site suggest that people occupied the land centuries earlier. Its previous owners include Sir Rhys ap Thomas and King Edward I, who captured the castle in 1277.
King Edward gave the castle to a soldier named John Giffard, who had supported the king in his conflict with Welsh prince Llywelyn ap Gruffudd. Giffard then rebuilt Carreg Cennen into the impressive structure that it became in subsequent centuries.
Under English control, the castle was attacked by Owain Glyndwr in 1403 and was damaged further during the War of the Roses later in the 15th century. From superstar gigs to cosy pubs, find out What’s On in Wales by signing up to our newsletter here
By the 19th century it was owned by the Cawdor family, until they sold it to the Morris family in 1963 ‘by accident’ – you can read more about that here. Today it is owned by Margaret Morris and her husband Bernard Llewellyn alongside their daughters.
The tea room is run by the family and here you’ll get a really lovely bowl of homemade cawl – round these parts it’s a thick veggie soup, other areas of Wales put lamb or beef in, depends where you’re from! Anyway, this cawl comes with bread and a chunk of cheese – it’s exactly what’s needed after a good walk. You can also get dishes with Carreg Cennen’s Longhorn beef reared nearby and there’s a good selection of cakes and hot and cold drinks.
It’s a cosy way to end your visit which, for me, starts when you see the castle emerge over the fields and trees. I’m enamoured with it from that moment and have tried to capture the view many, many times – but it just doesn’t translate – you’ll just have to visit there yourself!
How to get there
Carreg Cennen Castle is situated around five miles from the town of Llandeilo, and around 19 miles east of Carmarthen. From the village of Ffairfach on the outskirts of Llandeilo, take a right on the A476 heading east and travel down an unmarked road until you reach the village of Trap, where you will find signs directing you to the castle.
From the M4, leave the motorway at Pont Abraham roundabout and take the A483 towards Ammanford. Travel through Tycroes and Ammanford and take a left onto Wern Ddu Road. Continue north until you get to Blaengweche, where you’ll see a signpost for the castle directing you east towards Trap.



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