The ski resort of Riksgränsen is the most northerly in the world, sitting way into the Arctic Circle. It is treated to regularly displays of the Northern Lights and delivers midnight skiing at middsummer
If you think that you’ve missed your chance to go skiing in Europe this year, then you’d be wrong.
There is a resort where the slopes remain open not just through April and into May, but in the high summer days of June.
Riksgränsen, a small ski resort in Arctic Sweden, is the most northerly in the world. It’s 94 miles further up the road from the famous ICEHOTEL, which has melted away into the river by this time of the year.
By June 21, the snow farmers of Riksgränsen have been hard at work for weeks, making sure there’s enough coverage on the 909m tall mountain for the Midsommar downhill jamboree. They’ve dug, they’ve blanketed and they’ve cornered off sections of the mountain.
The reward is three hours of skiing, unlike anything you’ll find elsewhere in the world. From 10pm to 1am, T-shirt-clad skiers whizz down Riksgränsen’s 21km of pistes, basking in the strange phenomenon of bright sun and blue skies throughout the night. At 68.4266°N, the sun won’t disappear again for another month.
When I visited the Swedish resort, it wasn’t nighttime and the sun was nowhere to be seen. Instead, a heavy cloud hung over the mountain, the wind whipping my face as I sat shivering on the ski lift. Skiing in Sweden in March hits a little differently.
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Unlike the Alpine ski season, where the temperature hangs around the 0 °C mark and there’s a 10 euro hot chocolate to warm your cockles at the bottom of every piste, Sweden’s resorts get really, really cold. -20C cold. Cold enough that after a few trips down Riksgränsen’s jump-littered slopes, you need to retreat to one of two food huts for a finger-thawing plate of meatballs or a veggie hot dog loaded with crispy onions.
The resort also stands out from others I’ve been to in terms of vibe. Gone are the Dior all-in-one après-skiers of the French Alps, replaced with gnarly 20-something youth hostellers who all seem to know how to backflip.
Riksgränsen is known as a paradise of off-piste skiing, and it does not disappoint. Either side of every piste is acres of mazy terrain, perfect for exploring and throwing yourself down. The resort also specialises in heli-skiing and snowmobile tours. You can even book yourself a caving tour at the nearby Kåppasjåkkagrottan, the largest cave in Sweden.
Riksgränsen translates as national border. Its area extends into Norway, meaning when you ski down the “Gränsleden” (border run), you swing into a different country at every corner.
This boundary-hopping continues with the Arctic ski pass required to access Riksgränsen’s slopes. Starting from about £140, it also gets you onto the lifts of Björkliden, Fjällby and Narvikfjellet.
The two other resorts offer very different skiing experiences.
Björkliden is perfect for families, with a gentle mountain criss-crossed with runs through the pine trees ideally suited to beginners. Hotell Fjället sits metres from its bottom ski lift and is an excellent place to stay. Comfy, staffed by friendly ski enthusiasts from across Sweden, and boasting a dramatic view of Lapporten from its breakfast room. The U-shaped valley is known as ‘the gateway of Lapland’ and for providing a framing of the Northern Lights, which I was lucky enough to witness twice during a three-day trip. The 11-year solar cycle recently peaked, meaning the Arctic was doused in glorious streaks of green on a near-nightly basis.
A little further north is Narvik, where the mountains are higher and the slopes more intense. The resort is currently undergoing a major upgrade ahead of the FIS Alpine World Ski Championship arriving in 2029.
The warming effect of the Gulf Stream means the port does not freeze. The view along the deep blue Ofotfjorden that treats skiers as they descend down the biggest drop in northern Europe is simply breathtaking.
Book it
The Arctic ski pass costs from £140
Chalets at Björkliden’s Hotell Fjället cost from £166 a night.
Flights to Kiruna (a short train ride away from Björkliden, Fjällby and Narvikfjellet) cost from £96 in June.



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